Hi
I I am going to change wall tap
hot water doesn’t have this white vale, so install very smooth, but cold water side get this one, is any way I can remove it? I have tried to use long nose pliers, but It feel stuck T_T
Hello @dani335711
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your wall taps.
I suggest looking for a large 12g or 14g screw and screwing it into the middle of the plastic jumper valve. Once it is secure, I recommend gently pulling it out so that the screw takes the plastic body with it. Violent pulling actions might ruin or compromise the hold of the screw. Your objective is to get the jumper valves body to loosen up and come out as you slowly pull on the screw.
Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @Noyade for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thank you for the reply
i I just tried to screw it and pulling
but nothing happened, totally stuck
My next suggestion is to spray it with WD40 and use a larger screw. Small screws with small bodies will not be effective. Another thing you can try is to use a heat gun (if you have access to one). Use the heat gun on high setting to soften the plastic body of the jumper valve. Once it starts to get pliant try the long nose pliers again.
Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves and goggles when working on your project.
Hi @dani335711
I agree with @EricL suggestions of techniques but I think you might need to be more forceful going back to the screw idea. If it's an all-plastic valve, then the heat-gun/hair dryer idea may help, but if it has a metal back then it will expand with the heat. I suspect though it's plastic since the stalk has separated.
I would put something like a 75mm screw back in giving more leverage and really try and twist it in a random way rather than pulling straight out.Last resort obviously is getting a plumber in who would have experienced this scenario plenty of times before.Nailbag
Good morning @dani335711
The guys have already suggested two of the most likely ways I know to remove the base of the washer. I prefer working away with a pair of needle nose pliers where the nose is small enough to go through the center hole. Whichever way I think patience and fource mixed together will be the way to go. The tolerences are tight but the washer has gone in so it must be able to come out is what I tell myself when I get fed up with something like this.
Dave
"The guys have already suggested two of the most likely ways I know to remove the base of the washer."
Same here@Dave-1 .
Although - I do have an autistic son who cannot stop over-tightening taps and destroying washers. I have a 'kit' always ready to go and have become quite adept at keyhole surgery. Artery forceps for the stem and the rubber carcass is removed with a 'scraper.'
I've never lost a patient - yet.
Thank you,
I have successful removed it and installed new tap in, but now it is leaking once I turn the tap on, I am not sure if it’s too tight or the new tap it not the right one
Good Evening @dani335711
Could you describe were it is leaking from? The spindal (center bit) or the larger tap base? Also was there any washers that you used and how did you tighten up the tap base?
Leaking between the red circle and the other side and I used spanner to tighten
Evening @dani335711
What tap did you purchase? From Bunnings?
Cheers.
One possible cause for the leak is the spindle seat has been damaged or has deteriorated. It's also possible that the spindle body you purchased is not compatible with the spindle base. The red washer is suppose to meet up with spindle seat, which is at the bottom, failure to secure the seal will result in a leak even when the spindle is in the off position. If you are keen to try and repair it you'll need a reseating tool for the spindle base. But before doing that I suggest getting a new jumper valve and testing the old spindle that you have to make sure that the spindle seat is level. If it is, then the ceramic spindle that you have might not be sitting properly or is a tad short.
Please let us know how you would like to proceed.
Amazon 😅
I'm afraid that would a bigger can of issues. I propose taking a picture of the spindle base so that our members can assess the condition of the spindle seat. If it looks damaged or there is a structural defect it might be necessary to engage the services of a plumber. But as I mentioned, try the old spindle first to see if the seat is still level. By doing a simple elimination process you'll be able to sort out your tap issue.
Hot water tap is fine, but cold water tap is slightly leaking as picture
It appears that there is surface damage to the spindle seat and might require a polish. If you are keen to repair it, I propose using a Tap Reseater Indoor / Outdoor Tap Reseater to polish the surface of the seat. The general steps are to attach the reseating tool onto the tap body and turning the handle of the reseating tool in a firm light manner. There is no need for brute force when turning the handle as you will cause more damage that way. Your goal is to firmly turn the handle without applying excessive downward force, let the tool do all the work.
After several turns you can inspect your progress and see how shiny the seat is. Once you are satisfied that the seat is evenly polished you try to install the ceramic spindle again. Please do not overtighten the spindle or you will crush the ceramic disc and end up with a leak. You are after a firm tight fitting but not excessively tight.
