Hello all,
I am looking for solution to extend the fence gate by removing the middle post and was wondering what would be the optimal way of going about it. Ordering a custom gate seems way to expensive. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Hi @rbaus,
The easiest solution that I can see is to have a double gate. You already have a post in place, you would just need to cut back the rails, remove the central post and then hang a gate on the post to the left that meets the existing one in the middle, then install hardware.
You would start by cutting out the rails, then removing the fence post. You could cut the rails flush with the post on the left using a reciprocating saw or a handsaw, then unscrew them and the mesh from the post on the right. Assuming the fence post is concreted in, you can then use a fencing bar to dig out and expose the concrete. It will take a bit of work, but once it is free, you can lift it out of the hole. If the concrete is too heavy to lift as one, you can use a rotary hammer drill or a jackhammer to break it up.
Once the post and rails have been removed, you can then construct a second gate using a suitably sized gate frame for the opening. You would then just attach some palings to the gate frame, attach the frame to the post using the hinges that are provided and then attach a drop bolt to one of the gates, and a gate latch to hold them together.
Let me know what you think, and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Jacob
Good advice from @JacobZ and with regard to the middle post concrete thing I have some thoughts the should eliminate all of that from the job, no digging, removal, breaking up and... no need for disposal.
Looking at your photo (and I like the way you superimposed the measurements) the middle post is offset to the left by 30mm from the right edge of the post so here's what I am thinking, cut the post at the base just above the concrete and continue on with the job.
Later on when installing the drop bolt things should line up and you can simply drill a hole in the concrete.
If that doesn't work out don't worry come back to discuss some more...
Cheers
Hi @AlanM52,
That's actually a really good idea that I hadn't considered.
@rbaus, this would be a great way to reduce the amount of work and give yourself something to support the drop bolt once the second gate is installed. Definitely worth considering.
Thanks @AlanM52 and @JacobZ - I think @AlanM52's idea sounds easier to implement 🙂
Now I need to find a suitable gate frame, from what I have measure, I would need a gate 1340mm wide to be able to put a latch on top of the existing gate. Any ideas if Bunnings sell anything I could make use of?
Thanks heap.
Hello @rbaus
I suggest looking at the Fortress Gate Frames. They come at fixed heights, but their widths can be adjusted using the Fortress Gates 1.3m Connecting Rails. They are reversible when it comes to installation and are rated for outdoor use. You can attach both metal and timber onto the frame itself for coverage and is relatively easy to install.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
@EricL I ended up getting the Fortress gate frames E1050 along with the 100cm rails bringing the total gate width to 1200mm (just the size that won't require the diagonal brace). My challenge now is that there's a 120mm gap between the two gates (obv. my initial calculations were a bit off). I was wondering if I can put some sort of timber against the round post (along the white line) say approx 100mm and then attach the gate to that timber.
If yes, what kind of timber can I use and do I need to take into consideration joining a flat timber to a round timber post. Worst case I live with the gap but if I can reduce it, it would be preferable.
Thank you again for all suggestions.
You can bolt a 100 x 100mm H4 post to the existing one without any issues. As the bolts will run through both posts, the bolt will hold the flat face of the 100 x 100 post to the existing round post without any issues, there will just be a bit of a gap behind the new post, which isn't really an issue.
You'll want to use a galvanised bolt that is at least 25mm longer than the thickness of the round post and your new 100mm post, so something around 230-250mm would likely be ideal. You'll want a nut and bolt, with galvanised washers to spread the load, about every 600mm along the full height of the post. So, three bolts evenly spaced should suffice.
You can then attach your gate to the new 100 x 100mm H4 post.
Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks @JacobZ - do you know which kind of bolts I would need, I was looking at https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-m16-x-250mm-hot-dip-galvanised-hex-head-bolts-and-nuts-each_p2449200 but not sure if I need fully threaded ones or partiall
Those bolts would work fine, but if you wanted a lower profile head, you could also use cup head bolts like these ZENITH M12 x 240mm Hot Dip Galvanised Cup Head Bolts & Nuts.
The length of the thread doesn't really matter as long as there is enough, so the nut makes solid contact with the timber before the thread runs out.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
Progress update:
I had to pull out the middle post as it wasn't concreted in. I ended up using m16 Hex bolts because the 3 different bunnings I went to looking for the M12 x 240, none of them had it. But it worked out ok at the end.
Any ideas how best I can secure the gates now? One option I still have is to cut the old middle post and concrete it in and then use a drop bolt on both gates to secure them.
Any other recommendations? I would also need some sort of latch to hold the top together. I would prefer something that can be locked from the inside.
Ta,
I propose digging a square footing 200 x 200 in between the gates and filling it with cement. This will serve as the locking base for the Pinnacle 300mm Galvanised Drop Bolt. This will secure the bottom section of your gate. For the top section, I suggest looking at the LokkLatch General Purpose Gate Latch, the MagnaLatch Pool and Child Safety Gate Latch-Lock and the MagnaLatch Vertical Pull Gate Latch. These gate locks can be locked from the top except the first one, so you don't have to reach over to the other side. The added bonus is that it is child safe and not easy to reach.
My best advice is to check the distance between your gate to make sure that the lock has enough space to engage properly.
Hi @EricL - I was looking at the vertical pull latches from Magna but I am not sure if I can get them to open outwards. Both the single gates I have open out and looking at the videos it seems for the vertical latches, one of them must open to the inside, would you have recommendations on that please? Videos I have been referring to are from https://www.bunnings.com.au/brands/d/d-d-technologies
Thanks again
Do the gates absolutely have to swing outwards?
At present, regardless of what lock you use, as they need to be attached to the frame not the palings, the lock would face outwards, which really isn't ideal.
My suggestion is to rehang the gates on the inside of the posts so that they swing inwards. This would remove the issue with the orientation of the lock.
Unfortunately, it is the only solution I can think of that would allow you to use one of these lockable vertical latches.
Allow me to tag @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @Noyade to see if they have any ideas.
Let me know what you think.
Good Afternoon @rbaus
As a workaround for the type of pull up latches you are thinking of. You could make up your own bolt system and have the length of it withing a pipe/tube.
I couldnt find any ground bolt longer then 450mm and if you want to lift it from the top then a longer bolt may work.
12mm black and steel round bar, this you use your vice to bend a right angle at the end, maybe 80mm in from the end. So you end up with a long L shape.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/metal-mate-16-x-1-2-1m-galvanised-steel-round-tube-1m_p1130446 (sorry I couldnt shorten the link) would be held in place on the gate via saddles. The L post would be fed down through the pipe.
You could also cut a say 300mm length of 20mm pipe and hammer it into the bround (no concrete needed) for the Long L bar to slide into to secure the gate.
To stop any wobble of the top of the gate latching, maybe a Horizontal tube either side with another L bar. that spans the distance between them (I would go for a 20mm pipe to allow for play in the gate if you use this part of the idea)
So two vertical L bars at the edge of each gate. Two 20mm tubes into the ground by 300mm, the Vertical L bars fin below the top rail of your gate. This way the horizontal L bar when slid close will block the two Vertical bars from being lifted. A hole drilled into the end of the horizontal L bar (straight end) will be able to be secured with a padlock if wanted.
Dave
