G'day folks' Today i fitted a wall mount for a garden hose to a concrete brick wall and just was curious as to where I went wrong. The steps I took were as follows: * Found appropriate spot-on wall for wall mount. * Chose the smallest drill bit I could to drill a mark in the brick through the wall mount. For this I used a drill driver. * I then had to swap over to a hammer drill (as my drill driver was not powerful enough the penetrate the wall) with an 8mm bit which I marked with tape to match the depth of the plug going into the wall. * I then inserted the plugs with a mallet as well as the wall mount and screws. * Job complete. The problem I had was only two of the plugs were lined up when I went to fasten the screws. Is there anything else I could have done to prevent this? Or was this simply the drill wandering due to inexperience? Regards, T.

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How to drill into masonry to fit garden hose to wall?

G'day folks'

Today i fitted a wall mount for a garden hose to a concrete brick wall and just was curious as to where I went wrong. The steps I took were as follows:

Found appropriate spot-on wall for wall mount.
Chose the smallest drill bit I could to drill a mark in the brick through the wall mount. For this I used a drill driver.
I then had to swap over to a hammer drill (as my drill driver was not powerful enough the penetrate the wall) with an 8mm bit which I marked with tape to match the depth of the plug going into the wall.
I then inserted the plugs with a mallet as well as the wall mount and screws.
Job complete.

The problem I had was only two of the plugs were lined up when I went to fasten the screws. Is there anything else I could have done to prevent this? Or was this simply the drill wandering due to inexperience?

Regards,

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EricL

Hello @TJP

Thank you for sharing your question about drilling into masonry. I'm afraid your analysis is correct, the drill bit head wandered ever so slightly, and this small movement was enough to make things go out of alignment. I often mark my drill points with a black marker to make sure that I'm drilling in the right spot.

If the drift is not too far, I propose testing to see if you can mount the screw starting at an angle. If the alignment is too far, I can only suggest drilling a new mounting point for it. If it is too close one possible option is to make the hole bigger and install a larger plug where the screw can anchor onto properly.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @Remarka6le for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

TJP

Much appreciated @EricL, as for the setup: drilling a small hole into the brick through the fitting to mark the wall. Was there a better way to go about it? As marking the wall with a marker wasn't possible.

EricL

Hello @TJP

Marking the surface of the brick with the masonry drill bit would be your alternative to marking it with a black marker. Your other option is to tape the plastic mounting bit to the brick wall and use a sharp nail with a hammer to mark the drill point.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @TJP

A couple of tricks when marking and making holes into brick. The first is I have long tipped markers to mark holes in items that have deep holes like your bracket. The other is to mark and drill just one hole and fix the item to the brick. It won't matter if the hole isn't exactly where you marked it. Then drill just part way the holes through the other fixing points and remove the bracket. Now you have holes in exactly the right spot already started with no chance of walking off the mark.

On bits, never scrimp on cheap masonry bits as they tend to walk off the mark easier and dull very quickly. Always start your holes slow until your have a few mm of depth to prevent walking. And dont drill the holes to full depth in a single go. Keep withdrawing the bit while running to help remove the debris. The bit will stay cooler, so last long and drill faster with less debris in the mix.

Nailbag

Dave-1

Good morning @TJP

Drill wandering :) yeah we all have that happen and on an uneven brick surface, even more so. It will improve with experience. The guys have named a few ways to help out.

One more way is once you have marked the hole (I actually use a lead pencil, faint but does the job and fits down most fixing holes) You could thendrill in by 5mm to each marking. Then reassess with placing the item and remarking.

Another way would be to mark out the item on a scrap piece of timber, drill the holes need. and then use @Nailbag's suggestion of drill one hole, secure that and drill the others. This is where the timber template will help stead the drill bit to make it more accurate.

Dave

TJP

Much appreciated fellas @Dave-1 @Nailbag.

Regards,

TJP

One last question: I used a

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-hammer-drill-rpd18-tool-only_p0488985 with

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-10-piece-masonry-drill-bit-set_p0354578

but as I previously stated the tool wasn't powerful enough so I switched to a rotary hammer drill but my Ryobi drill bits were too small. Is this because I would need SDS masonry drill bits?

Cheers,

MitchellMc

Hi @TJP,

Yes, rotary hammer drills only accept SDS bits, whereas a standard hammer drill can use the masonry drill bit set linked to above. Between the cordless hammer drills and the rotary hammer drills, you have standard corded hammer drills, which are typically powerful enough for most DIY purposes.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Good afternoon @TJP

So when you say it wasnt powerful enough, what size masonary drill bit where you using? I generally dont have a battery powered hammer drill as I never think they have enough oompth :) So I go with my Makita corded drill for heavy situations. I dont have an ozito battery hammer for this reason.

When you say your Ryobi bits were too small? What size were they? I just use general masonary drill bits, nothing special. As long as they have that extra wedge on top I am happy.

Dave

TJP

Thanks at @MitchellMc and @Dave-1

The masonry bits were 8mm 1/4 shank. As Mitchell said I was trying to use a standard masonry drill bit on a rotary hammer that needed an SDS bit.

Man you guys must have a lot of tools. 😂

Noyade

"only two of the plugs were lined up"

Hi @TJP

How far off is the third hole/plug? Just a few millimetres maybe?

Is this mount 'solid' plastic or just a ribbed moulding? I was hoping we can reconnect you with the third hole - if it's solid plastic.

I'm not familiar with your Hollman bracket/hose, but will two successful anchors hold everything securely?

Cheers.

Nailbag

Hi @TJP

Pneumatic hammer drills are very specialised and a tool you would only buy if your were doing a lot of masonry drilling and chisel work. Though I have one, it's rarely used but a godsend when needed as they will drill any masonry hole 3-4 times more efficient than a traditional impact hammer. Plus even cheap SDS+ bits last considerably longer than even the best masonry bits.

But you can't use standard bits with an SDS Fitment, even if you used an adaptor they would shatter. Pneumatic hammer drill is like comparing a sledge hammer to a standard hammer. A good value SDS+ set is the Full Bore 4-cut, which if you start slow won't walk off the mark. It has all the common sizes you need.

Now don't be too worried if the holes you have don't line up perfectly to the holes in the bracket. As long as there is part of a hole visible the the bracket holes you will be fine. Just hammer in the nylon wall plug, Then drive your screws in. I can promise from decades of experience that the nylon will still expend and securely fasten the bracket into place.

Nailbag

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