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How to build a Swedish gym ladder?

I want to build a gym ladder in a space I have but I'm not sure how to go about it.

The space is 79.2cm across the back, maybe 11cm into the room (with some of that being door frame) and 2.45m high.

The wall at back is brick, I suspectt double brick with air gap in between. One wall side polytec wood (so would need support) and the floor is engineered wood which i do not wish to damage.

Open to timber or other materials as long as its not like raw metal *which can be rough on the hands) and a pull up bar at top would be nice.

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MitchellMc

Hi @Kingleviathan,

Would it be possible for you to post some inspiration images of what you would like to achieve, as our members might not be aware of what a Swedish gym ladder is or in which style you'd like to construct one?

I've spent some time creating a rendering of what looked to be a fairly simple ladder. It uses 90 x 35mm Pine rails and 30mm Tas Oak dowels. 18mm plywood is used to create the extended section at the top for the pull-up bars. The whole unit can be fixed back to the wall with angle brackets and Dynabolts.

The concept would typically involve two vertical side rails fixed securely to the brick wall, with evenly spaced rungs between them. Using smooth timber for the rungs can make it much more comfortable on the hands compared to raw metal, and it can also give the unit a nice finished look. Mounting the main structure to the brick wall should provide the primary support, which would also help avoid fixing into your engineered timber flooring.

It’s important to mention that the rendering is intended as a general visual guide only to help with planning your project. Because this type of unit will be used for exercise, it’s impossible for us to know the forces, loads or stresses that may be placed on it during use, which can vary widely depending on the exercises performed, the user’s weight, and how the structure is installed.

The final design, material selection, installation method and safety of the structure will need to be determined by you (and potentially a suitably qualified professional if needed) to ensure it’s appropriate for your space and intended use.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Kingleviathan

Yeah

that looks pretty good @MitchellMc The way I see it

I could do something akin to what you suggested (the first image)

Or I can just punch the bars into the side walls (with some sort of support frame). Can't help wondering if the middle photo might best even simpler

MitchellMc

I don't think there is really any way you could attach to the cabinet end panel on the left @Kingleviathan. It's not structurally sound and is just an aesthetical panel.

Let me tag @Dave-1 and @Noyade to see if they have any thoughts.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @Kingleviathan

Nice idea for using a minimal space :)

I would approach it by sorting out what you cant do first. It just makes it easier for what you can do.

Left and right sides I wouild leave alone, as @MitchellMc has said teh left is structually not able to support anything and the right you run into a large amount of problems with door framing.

So we are left with the brick wall at the rear, best place for supports. I am thinking of something more bulky than the ideas you have put up, mainly because you wanted to stear away from steel. (Steel would make it a lot easier but would require welding) You could ensure the hand hold areas were not sharp if you built it outside and then brought it in.

So rear wall, timber structure.

I am picturing two vertical rails at 690 (you have total distance of 790mm)

90 x 45mm Framing MGP10 H2 Blue Pine 4.2m Porta 30mm 2.4m Clear Pine Dowel

and then multiple 30mm timber dowls through the vertical boards.

Porta 30mm 2.4m Clear Pine Dowel

I would use

Ramset 12 x 150mm Galvanised AnkaScrew Masonry Anchor

To go through the 90mm into the brick work. I would secure it with at least 4 bolts per side if not 5 as you will be using your body weight against it.

If you want a top section to do chin ups then that requires a change to the plans, I would suggest an extremely sold support angle bracket and also bump up the connection to the wall bolts by 6 either side.

Dave

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