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How to weatherproof backyard studio?

daven25

We inherited this shed / studio from previous owners.

On the corner shown the exterior cladding is parting, more so in summer as the whole structure expands a bit. I would like to seal this join again (I assume it once was). How could I do this?

Also at the back there appears to be no real weatherproofing and a masonite (?) panel has lifted revealing more blue plastic sheeting. Don't know what paint has been used and its not even covering the whole surface, which and cant be easily reached due to proximity to neighbour's fence.

So apart from nailing that rear panel back in place, what might do to keep the elements out?

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EricL

Hello @daven25

Thank you for sharing pictures of your shed. I propose doing a thorough structural assessment of the corner and walls of the shed. Are any of the walls and panels loose and moving? Can the panels be shifted back into place to cover the gap? Are any other parts of the wall unsupported or have come loose from their fixing? Your goal is to study the structure to determine if the walls can be brought back together without having to add more timber pieces to cover the gap.

After doing your investigation and you determine that the walls are actually still sound and that the gap needs to be covered up, I suggest looking at using either https://www.bunnings.com.au/brutus-50-x-75mm-x-3-0m-jazz-building-moulding-flashing_p1100634 or https://www.bunnings.com.au/australian-handyman-supplies-50-x-50-x-1-5mm-x-2-4m-galvanised-pressed-angle_p0911011 . You also have the option of using 150 x 25mm 4.8m Plinth H4 Treated Pine Sawn Wet - 4.8m if you wish to use a timber cover. I suggest using https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-8-10-x-50mm-galvanised-countersunk-rib-head-timber-screws-50-pack_p2420876 to fix the panel in place.

In regard to the paint used on the surface of the shed, I propose doing a quick paint test to determine if it is oil-based or water-based. Get a clean rag and some https://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-1l-methylated-spirits_p1560782 . Put some of the spirits on a corner of the clean rag and rub a section of the painted wall. If the paint comes off it is a water-based paint, but if the paint does not come off and only goes shiny it is an oil-based paint. Once you have this information, you'll at least have an idea of the type of paint used.

In regard to the dark colour, you could try to bring a sample of it to the store and see if the paint specialist can do a colour match. Otherwise, I suggest grabbing a handful of colour card samples at the store and compare it to the finish of your shed.

As to the damaged section at the back, it might be necessary to speak to your neighbour about site access. You can then use a ladder from their side to patch up the damage to the shed. I suspect that it might a form of cladding as Masonite will not last in harsh rainy weather. I'm not sure if you have enough standing space at the side of the shed, I suggest using a roller and a painting pole to reach the tight sections of the shed wall.

Here is a guide for painting - How To Paint Your Exteriors

Here is a handy safety guide - How to use ladders safely by @Adam_W.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @Noyade for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @daven25

I think the board at the rear may be blueboard or james hardie concrete sheet and that should stand up to weather. repainting will help prolong its life and as @EricL has suggested you might need to chat to your neighbour about some kind of access, A roller on a stick and being careful from the top of the fence may work :)

The corner is the one that needs to be repaired. I like the idea of a right angle piece of colourbond to wrap around the corner. You just need to make sure why the sections are seperating. Maybe just age and things need to be refixed and not water damage.

The only thing I can think of that would be advantagous to add on is guttering and downpipes to take the water away from the shed (via stormwater preferently)

Dave

MitchellMc

Hi @daven25,

One important thing that hasn’t been mentioned yet is the possibility of asbestos-containing materials, especially given the age and type of sheet cladding used on sheds like this. Older fibre cement sheets (often mistaken for masonite) were commonly made with asbestos, particularly in structures built or modified before the late 1990s.

Before you cut, sand, drill, or remove any of those panels, it’s worth treating them as potentially hazardous. Asbestos fibres are dangerous when airborne, and disturbing the material, even during simple repairs, can release them.

A sensible approach is to leave the material undisturbed until it’s been properly identified. You can arrange testing through a licensed assessor.

In short, before moving ahead with weatherproofing or re-fixing panels, confirm what the material actually is and don’t assume it’s safe to work with.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

daven25

@MitchellMc The shed was built 2021-22. Should that give me any confidence?

@EricL How does one cut to size and attach metal corner flashing?

JacobZ

Hi @daven25,

In Australia, asbestos was fully banned in 2003, so a structure built in 2021–22 should not contain asbestos. The same applies in New Zealand, where asbestos has also been banned since 2016. In both countries, the only real caveat would be if reclaimed or second-hand materials were used, which is uncommon. In normal circumstances, the build date should give you a high level of confidence.

You can cut thin metal flashings with aviation snips, but if you are using thicker metal material such as the pressed angle mentioned above, you might have to use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. To attach it, use roofing screws like these https://www.bunnings.com.au/bremick-hex-roofing-screw-12g-x-50mm-b8-pk50_p0920589 through the flashing into the framing behind the cladding. These screws have a rubber gasket which compresses against the material to seal the hole and prevent water ingress.

Once the flashing is installed seal any seams with some exterior grade silicone to further prevent water ingress.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Dave-1

Morning @daven25

There is a good chance it is free from embedded abspestos :) and I would use Tin snips or a fine cutting blade on a grinder to cut the metal corner flashing.

And whoops, thought I had posted this sorry :/ Didnt see I missed it until @JacobZ posted

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @daven25

The structure is too recent to contain any asbestos, so, that can be ruled out.

Essentially in brief this is how I would tackle it . . .

Step one is to clean and sand out all gaps. Prime undercoat any timbers not panted or treated like the masonite. Use silicone to seal all gaps then install custom made colourbond flashing to match the wall color.Metal fabrication or local plumbing supplies can make these up. Install these with flat-head screws and silicone all edges.

Nailbag