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How to design walk in wardrobe with LED lights?

J-P

I am getting ready to redo my walk in robe. It currently has a shelf and curtain rods all around the room. I want to completely rebuild it with wardrobes, all three sides. I am also thinking of a dressing table either at the entry way or opposite side of the window. I definitely dont want the plain white finish. Looking for suggestions on layouts, products. Prefer some sort of flatpack so that i dont have to worry cutting stuff to size, drilling for hinge etc… I also want to automatic LED lighting when wardrobe door open (will have sparky do the hardwiring)

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JacobZ

Hi @J-P,

It sounds like an exciting project and a fantastic opportunity to create a much more functional and luxurious walk-in robe space.

I’d definitely suggest looking into modular flatpack wardrobe systems such as the Flexi Storage Wardrobe range, Lugna or Kaboodle range. These systems are designed to be much easier to assemble and customise, with pre-drilled components, adjustable shelving, drawers and hanging options that can be configured across multiple walls fairly easily.

Flexi Storage, Lugna and Kaboodle all have planners that can be used to design storage around your space and requirements. It would be worthwhile to have a look through their ranges, considering the finishes you are after and then have a play around with their planners to see what you come up with.

Flexi Storage - https://wardrobe-planner.flexistorage.com.au/

Lugna - https://www.lugna.com.au/planner

Kaboodle - https://planner.kaboodle.com.au/#projects/anonymous/design/Kitchen

For the layout itself, a really popular option is to run full-height wardrobes along the two longer walls, then use the end wall for either drawers, shoe storage or a dressing table. If your window provides good natural light, positioning the dressing table beneath or opposite the window can work particularly well for things like makeup and hair.

Since you mentioned not wanting a plain white finish, timber-look cabinetry or woodgrain doors could be a great way to warm the space up and make it feel more custom. The Kaboodle and Lugna ranges both offer finishes that feel a bit more premium and furniture-like compared to a standard white melamine wardrobe.

Your idea for automatic LED lighting would also really give the robe a high-end feel. LED strip lighting inside hanging sections, shelving and drawers paired with door sensors works extremely well. Since you’re already planning on using a sparky, it would be worth planning the wiring pathways before installation so everything can remain concealed. This would be easy enough to do using things like cover panels, aluminium channel and by routing out grooves in your panels. As this would be done in conjunction with your sparky, it might be an idea to sit down with them and have a look at the design prior to purchasing to get your head around where cables would need to run. Their experience would certainly help you to get the cleanest finish possible without any visible wiring.

All in all, it is a very exciting project, which I am very keen to see progress through planning into installation.

Allow me to tag @grounded_design and @Renowayoflife who have both shared their own wardrobe projects to see if they have any advice to offer.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/122777/d-i-y-walk-in-wardrobe-using-flexi-storage

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/307467/walk-in-wardrobe-reno-using-flexi-storage

Also, allow me to tag some of our helpful members such as @Nailbag, @Dave-1, @TedBear and @JoeAzza to see if they have any ideas.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Nailbag

Hi @J-P

What a great project and one I have done several times. So, let me share some of that experience addressing your planning points.

1 - Incorporating a dressing table either at the entry way or opposite side of the window.

The first thing I would do is work out the minimum space to accommodate the necessities like his and hers hanging and drawers requirements, including shoes. A full length mirror and shelving for jewellery and PowerPoints for something like a hair drier. both of which may work in with your dressing table.

2 - I definitely don't want the plain white finish.

Due to difficulties in fabrication of a DIY WIR in our last house, I needed to get a cabinet make to custom build our requirements to also maximise space. Plain white melamine was quoted at $3,000. To have a basic timber laminate was just over $6K. A mate in the industry said that was about standard, We went with white. That was 5yrs ago so, something to bear in mind in your budget. remember this is a space nobody will see but you.

3 - Prefer some sort of flatpack so that i dont have to worry cutting stuff to size, drilling for hinge etc…

As per point 2. it HIGHLY unlikely you will find anything turn-key off the shelf to fit a fixed space. Best you can hope for are some flat-pack products that you can use a starters to then finish with melamine shelving and hanging spaces you will need to DIY.

4 - I also want to automatic LED lighting when wardrobe door open (will have sparky do the hardwiring)

Now you're talking up my alley with some very basic and affordable smart lighting! I use TAPO smart plugs which connect to your home wifi that look like double adapters to control via an app anything from indoor and outdoor lighting, water features and security. I recently had my sparky in our new house install a GPO in the top shelf of our WIR. Then I installed IKEA wardrobe lights under shelving on both sides. I ran figure-8 cable myself up and over in the ceiling cavity to the other side. The lights were connected to a single IKEA transformer. I had to cut the connectors off the supplied cable and join them to the fig 8 cable. The transformer was plugged into a smart plug. The smart plug was triggered to turn on not by a time but a wireless TAPO motion sensor positioned on the ceiling above the WIR entrance. This has to be connected to a plug into a TAPO HUB to connect to your wifi. The sensor was then programmed through the app to turn the smart plug/lights on for say 60 sec and then go off. But of course if you're in the WIR moving about the lights stay on. This is a super easy and cheap DIY home automation.

Nailbag

Dave-1

Good Evening @J-P

I like functional, useful things in a walk in wardrobe are

Hat hooks
Coat hooks or sequenced hangers for the larger hooks.
Rear lighting of the hanging area so you can see what is "back" there.
Enough space to be able to walk down the wiw so not to brush any clothes hanging.
Place to sit and do up laces or take off shoes.
Shoe stand
Wall Mirror, preferably full length.

I like LED lighting and also how a cool or warm light can change the feel of a space.

Storing bulky items such as Jumpers, winter clothes and also Jeans (I prefer cubes for placement and keeping the items tidy)

Because its a walk in, I would give doors a miss, the area is hidden until you walk in and then you really want to be able to see everything. Cubes, and shelves for the majority with some draws for smaller items. (Make the drawers waist high and above)

Dave

EricL

Hello @J-P

Just to add to the ideas recommended, I suggest having a look at the option of building it from scratch. I understand your desire to use flat pack systems. But the advantage of a self-built D.I.Y wardrobe is that you have complete control of the position of the dividers and drawers. I've placed a sample image below to give you an idea of what it could look like. The premise of my suggestion is uniformity and standardization. With a space of 3800mm it can be cut in half in order to have a balanced cabinet system. Both cabinets are identical in size and shape. Both sides can have more hanging space, but I have displayed the cabinet on the right with the shelf option visible, but in essence both can be modified in the same way. I propose using https://www.bunnings.com.au/custompine-carcass-ds-16mm-2400-x-1200mm-mr-particleboard-white-matt_p0097412 for the carcass body, drawer and shelves of the wardrobe cabinet.

In regard to colour, I propose using https://www.bunnings.com.au/grove-lunar-wallpaper-tj40302_p0628879 as an image feature in your wardrobe rather than painting the carcass itself. It breaks up the white naturally and provides excellent contrast.

On the other side, I propose placing the dressing table on the right-side wall. Please note that the cabinet depth has been limited to 450mm as any bigger and there will be very limited space to walk inside the wardrobe. I understand that you wanted the dressing table at the end of the wardrobe, but it would have made it very small and there would not have been enough space for drawers. However, if you wanted more wardrobe space, we can certainly re-arrange the layout if you wish.

The cabinet at the end technically is a narrow pantry type cabinet that you can use as shoe storage. The door serves as a full-length mirror. My best advice is to install proper ventilation on the ceiling so that the wardrobe room gets fresh air.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

J-P

What a lovely community !! Thanks @EricL @Nailbag @Dave-1 @JacobZ for your time and detailed responses. The more i researched after I posted the more I found out that flatpack wont work and I have to go DIY.

@Nailbag - I liked the idea of motion sensor lights. Will plan that to be installed. I have a powerpoint on the other side of the wall that I can have sparky extend to the WIR.

@Dave-1 - you got me thinking on the doors now.

@EricL - Liked your idea of wall paper. That works better for me than paint.

Few additional questions. Appreciate all your input

Should the carcass have a backing against the wall or can it be just wall (with wallpaper on)
The cieling height is 2.4m with cornice. Should I leave the cornice or build full length?
Should i build over skirting or it needs to be removed?
Can carpet on the floor be left (I might change to floorboards someday)?
How do i go about fixing this to the wall? Prefer to keep it concealed
Is there a drawer kit that I can use? I am not confident of building one from scratch (to get that smooth finish)
What kind of ventilation do you recommend?
Where would the light bars be placed (thinking of cutting a rebate on the board to make it plush.
What tool should i invest in - Already have a circular saw, mitre saw, drills, drivers, hand saw and other hand tools

Thanks,

EricL

Hello @J-P

Here are my suggestions:

I suggest building it with a backing panel, I recommend using plywood to lower the cost of the build. The back panel will provide structural stiffness to the build and prevent the assembly from shearing.
I recommend building it up to 2200mm only, the top section gap can be used for storage. I suggest leaving the cornice in place and save on having to modify it.
I propose removing the skirting boards so that the cabinets don't need to be modified and will sit flush with the wall.
It would be better to remove the carpet and laying down some laminate clip-on flooring as an alternative.
The backing panel needs to be anchored to the stud wall. For extra security you can use angle brackets at the top so that they will be out of sight.
This will be your D.I.Y building challenge. Creating drawers can be built with careful planning, I suggest having a look at your kitchen drawer assembly and you'll see how they are put together. I also suggest having a look at this guide - How to add drawers to a kitchen cabinet. It will give you a general idea of how to put one together.
I propose using a https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-250mm-ball-bearing-exhaust-fan_p4442004 linked to the walk-in sensor, so it turns on when someone is in the room.
The LED light strip can be installed in the cabinetry, but you'll need to include this in your design. I propose having some in your ceiling and a few in the cabinetry.
The other tools I would suggest are sawhorses and an https://www.bunnings.com.au/empire-300mm-combination-square_p5667081 . You'll have a better idea of what you'll need as you progress with your build.

I propose drawing your plan on paper or on your computer. This will iron out all your measurement questions and what materials you'll be needing for the build. I then suggest sharing the plan with the community along with any questions you might have while planning your build. My best advice is to take your time and gather ideas from other wardrobe displays that you like, include them into your plans but be aware of space limitations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

MitchellMc

Hi @J-P,

What has turned you off flat-pack units? They might not fit the space exactly, but they are a huge timesaver and come with drawer units. I'd recommend using a combination of flat-pack and DIY cabinetry. Place the flat-pack units where needed and then you can add your custom cabinetry between them or in odd sections.

The vast majority of the amazing design Eric has put together can be assembled will flat-pack units.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Good Morning @J-P

If you havnt looked there should be 450mm deep cupboards as flatpacks. I rem using them for my kitchen above the benches. I just looked and they are still around. :) Once I had one built (yeah took a few wrong screws) but then they went together like lego and made life a LOT easier. Will wait and see why you arnt keen on them.

Dave

J-P

Thanks @Dave-1 @MitchellMc @EricL - I wasnt against flatpacks. What I really meant that flatpacks alone wont work. I have to do a combo with DIY cabinet like what Mitchell mentioned.

Let me come up with a design of what I wanted to do and sketch it up with what flatpacks are available out there. I also want to fit a frame with 70x35 at the bottom that sits few cms inside of the wardrobe shell so that it will give a feel that the wardrobe is floating (it might also serve as a spot for lighting).

Are there any alternates to exhaust fan (worried about the noise it can produce given the area is small and enclosed). Thanks for all your inputs, I will come back here once I have a design in mind.

EricL

Hello @J-P

One option is to use an https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-150mm-inline-exhaust-fan-kit_p4420560 . This uses an inline motor that sits further into your ceiling cavity and prevents noise from travelling into the room.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @J-P

Should the carcass have a backing against the wall or can it be just wall (with wallpaper on)?

Up against the wall

The ceiling height is 2.4m with cornice. Should I leave the cornice or build full length?

Unless you need to leave the cornice, remove.

Should i build over skirting or it needs to be removed?

I would remove so the back of the WIR can be flush to the rear wall

Can carpet on the floor be left (I might change to floorboards someday)?

Cut the carpet

How do i go about fixing this to the wall? Prefer to keep it concealed?

Right angle bracket at the top of the cabinet fixed to the studs. Safe and unseen

Is there a drawer kit that I can use?I am not confident of building one from scratch (to get that smooth finish).

No, nothing is standard.

What kind of ventilation do you recommend?

None its not required

Where would the light bars be placed (thinking of cutting a rebate on the board to make it flush)?

Not required. Used surface mounted. IKEA ones like I used are angled so the light reflects back into the cabinet space.

What tool should i invest in - Already have a circular saw, mitre saw, drills, drivers, hand saw and other hand tools

60 TCT blade for the saw. make all the cuts with the boards upside down for the cleanest finish.
Decent clamps to secure the workpiece when making cuts
Roller support stand for longer materials
Adjustable platform ladder. I place my mitre saw on this and support the material with the roller stand.

J-P

@EricL @MitchellMc @JacobZ @Nailbag @Dave-1 - I decided to go IKEA (sorry bunnings) since their flatpack came in 240 cm that use every single cm in the room. I started demoliton today and removed everything except cornice. Will do cornice tomorrow. I roughly sealed up the walls since some plaster came off since the existing shelves were glued.

My question is :

When i remove the cornice there will be a gap between wall and ceiling, do i need to seal it with putty or something or leave it as it is (The wardrobe will close that gap)
There is small gap between wall and floor after removing skirting, do i need to seal it or leave it as it is.

One side of the longer wall is against exterior brick and one side of the shorter wall is against shower.

Nailbag

Hi @J-P

It's not necessary as the gap is concealed within the small cavity created by the top of the cabinet. However, I I've always liked to run a heavy cloth tape across gaps like that for no other reason than it will be one less area critters can get to should they become an issue.
The small gap left from where the wall plasterboard starts and the floor is pretty much standard and can be left.

Something else to consider at this pre-install stage is wardrobe lighting. IKEA have a range of widths and styles to suit their cabinets. We have a walk through WIR, so,I had a GPO installed in the top corner of one of my cabinets for the transformer. And a light gauge figure 8 cable in the internal roof space to the other side. The supplied cable though has special connectors it's only twin-core and easily extended.

Nailbag

JacobZ

Hi @J-P,

As @Nailbag has said, there is no need to seal these gaps if you do not want to as they will be concealed behind the cabinetry, however you can seal them if you wish to prevent critters being able to move through them.

Good luck with the build. I am excited to see how it goes.

Jacob

Dave-1

Good Evening @J-P

:) And as @Nailbag and @JacobZ has said no real need to but its a peace of mind thing.

I will second @Nailbag's suggestion for Ikea lighting, especially their remote lighting. I have 3 types (old type that cant mesh in but still perfect for my bookcases and two newer versions, one made for control via the app and an older one that can also be added to the app. All Ikea bookcase lights. Worth the extra units that are needed.

Dave

J-P

@Dave-1 / @Nailbag / @JacobZ - Thanks for your responses. The gap was too big for the tape. So i filled it with plasterboard and sealed with putty rough. I have also got the LED lighting and will extend them with Fig8 cable if needed. Will come back once I have the project finished up.

EricL

Hello @J-P

Thank you for the update. I'm sure I'm not the only one looking forward to seeing your wardrobe assembled.

Keep those updates coming!

Eric

J-P

@EricL, @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @JacobZ, @MitchellMc - Glad to say this is now complete with except a small peices to hide the top gap (interestingly there was one another 2 cm gap that I filled with an aluminium frame that came with the wardrobe. I have built it fully that there is literally no space left unused. Thanks for all your tips and assistance.

Next up is the built in robes in other bedrooms but it has a bulkhead that I don’t want to remove but still want to maximize the space inside (unsure how to do use the top spot without compromising accessibility)

JacobZ

Looks good @J-P. Glad to hear it worked out so well.

If you wanted a hand with the bedroom robe, I'm sure we can help out.

Jacob

Dave-1

Morning @J-P

:) Its done! You have definitely maximised use of your space :)
So A glaring question popped into my head on your first pic….

What type of lampshade are you going to go for? A lampshade and change of bulb can really add a "feel" to the space. At a guess it can make it up to 20% better (yeah pulled that figure out of the air) :) Some thoughts to lights and shades..

Reflective inside of a tradition material lampshade
sparkles, crystals that allow light through
perforated shade that gives a dappled light.
Height/space you have available with opening of your doors.
Bulb type, there are so many. Bright white for seeing your clothes, warmer white to make it feel a warmer area.

I have made/converted a couple of shades and it changed the feel of my hallway for sure, I felt it stepped it up even tho the shades were a bit eclectic :)

Upcycled light shade (There are two light shades in teh project, similar but different.)

Dave

J-P

@Dave-1 - you read my mind. That old light is now odd looking that space. I was thinking two down lights but now having a serious think on what you are suggesting. The place where the light is sliding doors so the drop shouldn’t be a problem. Let me have a chat with Mrs on the final decision