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How do I fill and seal a large gap around sections of my sliding doors?

KBdoesDIY

Hi Crew

I have gaps around my sliding doors. This is a new purchase home for me so no context as to how or when they were installed or what may lay behind the holes.

Using your previous advice, I tried a piece of gap filler rod to see if it was big enough, and lost it into the cavity.

Some gaps are small and a bead of gap filler will work. Some are larger and seemingly just a deep void.

I've cleaned them all out, removed old silicone, etc. I've attached photos of the top but there's gaps top and bottom. They're wider at the edges, probably because the original spance wasn't quite square and a modern, square door was installed.

Any advice?

thanks in advance.

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JacobZ

Hi @KBdoesDIY,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is wonderful to have you join us.

That is a bit of an odd setup. Generally, a door will be attached to a solid jamb which runs up the sides and along the top of the door opening. It seems like the top of the door is not actually sitting against a jamb. If you inspect the top of the sliding door unit, can you see any screws or fixings going up into the top of the opening?

If you could do a bit of investigation, and maybe grab a few more photos, particularly one from a bit further back showing the whole door, that would certainly help.

It seems like the logical solution is to remove the current timber trims and replace them with something wider which fully covers the gaps at the top of the door.

In saying this, I'm not entirely sure what is going on with this piece here, because generally a door would sit against a solid jamb, so there wouldn't be that gap. Does this piece line up with the wall sheeting or does it sit in front of it?

If it sits in front of the wall sheets, I would think the best approach is to remove this trim and the corresponding ones from the sides of the door, and replace them with a wider piece.

Allow me to tag some knowledgable members such as @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @TedBear to see what they think.

Let me know what you think. I am sure we can find a solution here.

Jacob

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @KBdoesDIY

I would normally suggest to remove the timber edges and replace with larger ones as well. @JacobZ has a valid concern over that gap. You may not know how the door is held in place until you remove those skirting styled edges around the door. It should be firmly attached to the timber stud so id be starting with one side of the door and seeing what is behind it. Maybe its held in place with the existing trim?

A photo of further back would be handy in assessing the door as well.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @KBdoesDIY

There are obvious sign of both poor installation and even poorer repair. There is quite a bit of work required though not complicated. The poor repair needs to be cut out and fresh timbers of the right size installed. Flexible gap sealer silicone along all edges, sanding, priming and a few coats of final colour is required. Its very time consuming work to complete the project properly.

Nailbag

KBdoesDIY

Thanks for so much help and advice! I really appreciate it.

There are some screws in the outside track, none on the inside glass door track. The whole track unit is secured outside.

The top thin timber decorative (if i can call it that) strip is clearly just nailed up into the architrave but the sides is far less clear. Can't see any obvious nails or anything. Pulling the top is likely to take off the side pieces too. There's only minor gaps on the sides which will seal with normal gap filler.

I do need to tread carefully thanks to a strong asbestos suspicion though.

Really appreciate your thoughts and tips.

Dave-1

Good Morning @KBdoesDIY

The fibro you have on the inside will probably contain asbestos so first thing to check off the ranks is test to see. I suspect this is why the edges have had very little change in switching out the door to the newer Aluminium style.

I would suggest to hold off for now until you have it tested, I would also consider as a high priority that you will have to have it removed before you can work on the frame. :/ Even levering the old edges off will create fibers floating in the air.

Once the room has been done then you can look at the join of the door to the frame to access it properly.

Whichever way I would suggest to approach with caution, As a note undisturbed bonded asbestos is safe. To remove it you need a qualified company to legally remove it.

Dave

JacobZ

Hi @KBdoesDIY,

If there is any potential for asbestos, I'd suggest you have it tested before doing anything. There's no point taking any risks when asbestos could be a factor.

With this being said, it seems like the sliding door unit has been screwed into the architrave on the outside of your home, which doesn't seem sufficient to me. It could be going through the architrave into the framing, which would be ok, but I would keep an eye on that longer term as a weak install could allow for movement which can lead to further issues in the long term.

It may be worth having a door installer, carpenter or builder inspect the door as it doesn't seem right to me. They'd be able to assess things to ensure that it was done correctly.

Focusing back on the gaps, I'm now more confident that the answer is to remove and alter the architraves around the inside of the door. You'll likely need to do so with the architraves on all sides of the door opening, but this will guarantee that those gaps get covered. You can then use a gap filler to seal up any of the seams and make sure everything is air tight and looking good.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

KBdoesDIY

Above and beyond with the advice, Team! Thanks.

I have had several other walls tested for asbestos so have a very strong suspicion about this one too. But unfortunately, I have just had the awful popcorn paint skimmed and now not keen to destroy $$$, time and effort to pull out the sheeting or the architrave.

Shame I thought this would be an easy fix so left it til lower down my project list.

You've given me some food for thought, and I very much appreciate it. It'll be no more DIY on this and off to a tradie.

TedBear

Hi @KBdoesDIY ,

That's the worst external door installation I've ever seen. Screws on the outside make it insecure. I'd be thinking of removing all the trim, examining how it's been held in place and probably starting over to make sure that it secures your home and seals out the weather properly.