What material to build DIY library shelves?

Question

Hi! I'm wanting to turn one of our spare bedrooms into a home library. I've been watching so many YouTube videos and everyone in the US seems to have access to great quality cabinet and/or furniture grade plywood for quite economical prices (given they use it for everything)...

In rural NSW, we don't have anywhere near the variety of options, so as I'm completely opposed to going the famous IKEA Billy bookcase DIY as it's so expensive to do here in Aus (and for that price I don't want to also have to refinish, prime and paint them), I figured I can grow some skills and build myself from scratch and save quite a lot of money - but I'm stuck on the best material to use.

I'll be building my bookcases separately, so they can be moved down the line if I ever need to, however I'll be doing face frames etc. to make them look built in.

I'll be alternating between widths of 40cm and 80cm (with the intention of having a finished product similar to the attached screenshot).

My DIY bookcases will be ~2.4m tall, however depending on the material I end up using I can either do full height cabinets, or I'm considering taking a leaf from IKEA's book and doing the main shelves at around 1.8m tall, then building some ~60cm tall 'extensions' that sit on top (if I'm using sheets/panels that are shorter than 2.4m). See example below:

I'll be putting everything together using pocket holes/screws - and am considering routing out the sides for shelf placement  (as I don't like the look - or the time needed to include and hide - adjustable shelf holes). The finished bookcases will be painted and I'm wanting a flat/smooth matte finish.

I'm not interested in using MDF for the dust aspect during building and long term shelf strength etc.

I'm currently tossing up between plywood and the multi-use desk panels available on the Bunnings website.

Unfortunately, the plywood available from Bunnings in the ~2440x1200 sizes is at best C/D grade and the 'better' graded ply comes in smaller sheets and higher prices, especially for the 18/19mm thickness I'm after.

So I've been basing my plywood plans around this product:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/structaply-2400-x-1200mm-19mm-plywood-structural-cd-grade_p0340167

I don't know how much work would be involved in getting the C/D grade plywood sheets up to a suitable level for a nice paint finish...?

I'm not sure how possible or suitable my alternative is, but for a little more in the overall cost area, I could instead try using some finger jointed multi-use panels.…?

I would either use the 1200x600 varieties, make two "units" and stack them to create each full 2.4m bookcase. Or I could get the 1800x600 varieties, and build the main section to 1.8m and build 60cm 'extensions' to add on top.

What I don't know is how these panels - being finger jointed - will hold up to being cut up and used to build the bookcase carcass, and also the shelves.

I'm looking at using either Pine, Acacia or Hevea, but I don't know which will be the best for what I'm wanting in terms of ease of building with, plus durability and longevity etc.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-1200-x-600-x-18mm-timber-multi-use-pine-panel_p0419619

https://www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-1200-x-600-x-18mm-brown-acacia-multi-use-panel_p0446778

https://www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-1200-x-600-x-18mm-hevea-multi-use-panel_p0447357

I would appreciate any advice, feedback or help anyone can provide on what the best material would be to complete my project that gives me the best value for money as I am on a budget, but still want to achieve a really nice finish.

If I've missed mentioning anything, or you'd like more details before you can offer advice, please let me know and I'll try my best to answer your questions.

Thank you so much in advance! :)

Dave-1 · Answer

Good Afternoon @HexPixie28

It sounds like you have locked in your preference of timber. I like pine, its not manufactured, has great strength and love the colours. I build my first bookcase from pine (forgot to add a diagonal stay :o ) but its still standing and still holding books. It was built 1997ish I think.

I have retrofitted existing office bookcases and they have really stood the ground and havnt moved at all.

Some thoughts as I went through your questions.

* The adjustment holes are easy as, For a single bookcase its just a matter of marking in pencil and taping the depth on your drill bit (generally half the depth of the timber ish. For multiple bookcases Id suggest a template that you clamp to the wall of the bookcase and then drill to your hearts content. 
* Timber - Pine over mdf, particle board, glossy topped particle board. Mainly for ease of use, no separation of manufactured timber down the track and stability of product.
* Notches at the rear of your bookcases to step up over the skirting board. (The office ones I reno'ed had them in spades and it makes life a lot easier)
* 2000mm high bookcases, cornices on homes generally look around (glances at ceiling) 100-150mm so to make it tidy for the eyes id say 2000mm, nothing over 2100mm as it just looks too close plus depending on your style of bookcase lights you may need some space. (ceilings are 2400mm ish) There may be some fluctuation in older styled houses so Id factor that in)
* Strengthing spans of shelves, especially the larger height shelves. We had a question the other day and roughly it comes down to another piece of timber fastened under the shelf. My preference is to have a 40mm by 20mm attached to the underside rear of the shelf. It stops the slow bend over time)
* Bookcase height verse toppling, depending on how you store your books you may want to attach the shelves to studs in the wall. In my Library downstairs I have done so. In the project that @JacobZ has tagged I dont. 
* Those bookcases you have shown as an example have quiet thick sides, so maybe keep in mind the overall weight for future moving.

The Bookcase retrofit to create a garage library shows the way I converted the ex office bookshelves that were being thrown out.

Costs that I remember -

* First bookcase built back in 1997 $120 plus a circular saw (I could buy a bookcase prebuilt or a circular saw but not both so bought the material and the saw)
* First batch of 4 ex office bookshelves approx $200ea Mainly due to the walnut trim I bought that was pre cut. Includes Ikea bookcase lights.
* Second batch of 10 bookshelves approx $120ea The pine timber trim was ripped down from a larger board. I was lucky I had my carpenter mate help me for that) Tabletop saw was what you use. Includes Ikea bookcase lights.
* Last batch of 2 bookshelves in the foyer. Cost around the $160ea mark due to purchasing an ikea hub to control the lights remotely. (the first batch were too old so it dosnt look after them, the ones in the Library in the garage and the foyer all are controlled via the hub (app) I have found them more reliable than the ones in Bunnings :/
* Costs include, sandpaper, laminate paint, undercoat and black paint plus timber trim, Pinhead nails and lights.

Cant wait to see your project unfold. :)

Dave

JacobZ · Answer

Hi @HexPixie28,

Of the options you’ve listed, I would favour 19mm plywood for the bookcase carcasses. The finger-jointed timber panels can be cut and joined, but they are relatively expensive and offer little advantage when the entire unit will be painted. C/D structural plywood will work, but achieving a smooth furniture-style finish will require filling face defects, exposed voids and screw heads then sanding thoroughly and applying a good-quality primer before painting. If you are happy to do the work filling minor defects, then this would be the best option.

You could also speak to the team at your local store about what options there are for A/A grade marine plywood if you didn't want to go to the effort of filling voids and defects. A full size (2440x1220mm) 18mm sheet of A/A grade marine plywood, is usually cheaper per square metre than the multi-use panels.

I used 18mm A/A grade marine plywood to create my son's bookcase, which you can see in this article here -

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/313580/how-to-make-a-kids-bookcase

I used danish oil to finish the timber, so the quality of the material can still be seen. The only filling I did was over screw heads, so there was next to no additional work required. For your project, you would just need to give everything a light sand, wipe away saw dust then prime and paint.

Your plans look pretty solid. The only thing I could add is that you should consider using a full backing panel that is routed out like the side walls. It will help to support the shelves and will be important for keeping each unit square. You should also look at anchoring the finished bookcases to the wall for safety.

We've had quite a few fantastic bookcase and library projects, so let me include some for inspiration and tag their builders to see if they have any insight or guidance to offer.

@dazz2901 -

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/344237/home-library-with-rail-ladder

@Dave-1 -

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/291774/bookcase-retrofit

@DannoAbbott -

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/127191/home-library-with-floor-to-ceiling-bookcases

Let me know what you think. If you have further questions or would like further assistance, I can certainly help.

Jacob