Hi there, I discovered some rotten portions of the timber for the walkway off my deck over the weekend. The original plan was to clean out all the rotten portions, put wood hardener and then bog. But upon doing the first two and starting to apply bog, I've realised this may be too big of a job to just use bog. Would you recommend just trying to bog or putting in scrap pieces of wood (does treated/untreated matter?) and bog the remainder or do I need to replace the piece of wood altogether? I measured the existing timber as 150 x 45mm x 2100. I'm not very handy but try my best and would like to do a good job while minimising costs with what I already have. Thank you
Hi @potatopot,
For safety reasons, I'd suggest you isolate this area and do not allow people to walk on it until it is repaired. That damage is severe enough that there is a real risk of it collapsing. Don't take any chances, it is not worth it.
This is a bearer, rather than a post. You can see that originally; the bearer sat in the notch on the post, which transferred the weight being held by the bearer into and down the post. Given the extent of the rot, it almost certainly needs to be replaced rather than repaired with bog or pieces of scrap timber. Considering the extent of the rot in this area, I'd also say the rest of the structural connections between bearers and posts need to be checked as well.
As there are structural considerations involved, unfortunately, I'd suggest that you need the assistance of a builder or carpenter with this job. They will be able to install temporary support to bear the weight, so that this timber can be repaired or replaced. They may have a solution that involves sistering or joining timbers to support the existing timber, but I'd say it is pretty likely that it needs to be removed and replaced altogether.
Allow me to tag @Nailbag, @TedBear and @Dave-1 for their thoughts.
Jacob
Good Morning @potatopot
I was thinking of replacing the whole rail and then had a second look after reading @JacobZ's words.
Mmm the last photo is what I am mmming about as the rail/bearer might be supporting something else as well. Could you supply an overall shot of the rail and what its connected to? If its nothing structural it may be easy but hesitant to say for certain.
I would say whichever way it would be easier and less skill intensive to replace and not repair the rail.
Dave
@Dave-1 @JacobZ thank you for both for taking a look at the issue and responding. A few more photos as requested by Dave.
Morning @potatopot
:) Thank you for those extra pics. I would say its an easy job and would suggest to replace the whole rail.
H3 timber for sure is needed.
Install a gutter on the roof as that is probably what has helped the existing timber handrail rot.
If you dont have a vehicle to bring home that length of timber I know Bunnings offer delivery or even the ability to hire a ute. Think they still have free borrow trailers but not sure on that.
That certainly eases my mind. I was under the impression the beam was holding up your deck or a walkway. Considering it is just a railing; it is not really too big of a worry and would be relatively easy to replace.
The one issue is that 150x45 is not a standard timber profile, so you'd have to get a https://www.bunnings.com.au/190-x-45mm-outdoor-framing-h3-treated-pine-2-4m_p8032310 and rip it down to match.
This can be done with a circular saw with a rip guide, or a table saw. If you don't feel confident doing this yourself, then I'm sure a carpenter or handyperson, or even a local men's or women's shed with a timber workshop could likely assist.
Once the timber is cut to size and length, you would just unbolt the old one, drill new holes in your timber, then bolt it back in place, before priming and painting.
Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you both.
@JacobZ would this work or no because not treated/not the right type of timber for the job? www.bunnings.com.au/applinks_p0315817?source=product_share&utm_source=bunnings&utm_medium=retail-app&utm_campaign=product_share&utm_content=pdp_deeplink
Afternoon @potatopot
I dont think so as its a laminated timber. It will expand if it gets wet. :/
140 x 45mm Outdoor Framing H3 Treated Pine - 4.8m is what you could do if you dont mind a gap on the underside of the rail/post (as it goes through the supporting posts). Bunnings will cut a length into sections (You still have to pay for the whole length :) ) But remember its a rough cut potentially. As in if you want say a 2.1m length The staff will cut 2.2m or 2.3m and then you trim to size once you have it home. Its to safeguard differences in measuring is all.
Unfortunately, no, that wouldn't be suitable because it is not the right treatment class. Being laminated doesn't automatically rule them out, but the treatment class does. You need to use H3 timber, which is for external above ground use, and the one you've linked to is only H2, which is for internal use only.
In saying this, there are 150x45 H3 treated LVLs (Item Number - 0143031) which could be used, but you would need to Special Order them. This might actually be a good option because they can be made to size and length, then simply bolted in place. The one downside though is that it would take time to order, produce, and in comparison to standard H3 framing timber, the cost would be higher. If you'd like to explore this option, I'd suggest you have a chat with the Special Orders team at your local store.
If you couldn't find anyone to rip a 190x45 for you and you didn't want to go with LVL, then 140x45 could be an option, but it wouldn't line up perfectly with the rest.
Let me know what you think. I can certainly assist further if required.
Hi @potatopot
You have already been provided excellent advice from @JacobZ in the type of timber options available to you. I would just add that I would class ripping long lengths of 45mm treated pine timber though appears easy, is not one for a novice. I say this because for starters you need a fairly powerful saw with a sharp ripping blade of around 24tct and there is always the danger of kickback, especially with a corded circular saw through great treated timbers.
Should you decide to have a crack, this is the process: The depth of the saw should be adjusted so only the blade protrudes through the underside by around 5mm to reduce friction and lessen the chance of jamming or kickback. It's the kickback you have to watch. As you go further along the cut, insert a small wedge behind the saw to keep the off cut apart to reduce jamming/kickback. Once further along and when safe to do so, a helper could assist keeping the split open until the cut is complete. Then use a sander to round the edges of the fresh cut to match the other side.
Remember to prime coat the entire finished rail prior to painting to extend life even though it is treated. It will help with the colour coat application in any case from soaking in.
Nailbag
@Nailbag thank you for that information, it's really helpful! Ripping the timber myself definitely seems beyond me at this point in time. And will definitely remember re priming and painting it all once done.
Hi @potatopot any local handyman can do this for you which should be inexpensive 👌
