🖼️
The project:
D.I.Y. pantry makeover. All cupboards and shelves were made from scratch.
Extreme beginner. First time doing anything like this. Thought I would give it a crack. If I can do it, you can!
Before photo:
- Materials:
- 75 x 30 x 90 Pine
- 90x 10x 900mm Pine x2
- 30 x 30 x 2400 Pine x6
- 120 x 2400 x 17mm plywood AB x1
- 120 x 2400 x 3mm ply x2
- Gyprock cornice cement
- 30 x 5x 2400 wood facing/trim curved edges x4
- 40 x 5x 2400 wood facing/trim curved edges x2
- Benchtop Specrite - European Beech 2200 x600 x26
- Hinges - Hafele Full Overlay 105° x4
- Hinges - Hafele Full Overlay 165° x2
- Wood filler Multifill Pine
- Primer - Rust Oleum x2 (3 cans)
- Wallmate 24kg x18
- 30mm countersunk wood screws
- 50mm countersunk wood screws
- Selley's Liquid ails X3
- Selley's caulk No More Gaps white x1
- Selley's No More Gaps Pine colour
- Pocket hole screws 1", 1 ¼, 1½
- Painters tape
- Sandpaper for orbital sander 150, 180, 240-grit
- Clear varnish water base
- Brad nails 15 mm 18 mm
- Gorilla wood glue
- Dulux paint Vivid White
- Dulux enamel water base Almond Milk
- Dulux paint Matrix
- Edge adhesive tape CustomPine 21 mm.
- Tools:
- Ryobi laser lever on stand
- Ryobi circular saw
- Ryobi drop saw
- Kreg pocket hole jig
- Ryobi router
- DeWalt orbital sander
- Ryobi wet and dryer vacuum 4ltr
- Ryobi nail gun
- Spirit level
- Ultra 3mm Radius rounding over router bit
- Irwin wood clamps 300mm
- Plasterboard knift
- Iron
- StanStanley blade
- L square ruler
- 30cm ruler
- 100cm ruler
- Tape measures.
- Step 1:
Removal of cabinets
Find photos for inspiration.
Layout with masking tape. New idea on pantry floor and walls to get a feel for the space.
I started with a recessed spice rack. First, you need recessed box. I used 90 x10 Pinewood to make my box. I used the drop saw to make easy cuts and glue and 15 mm nails. I added 3 mm plywood for the back of the box, nailing on with the gun.
After completing making your spice box, it is now time to mark and measure on the wall where you would like it to go. I like to do this step second because it is easier to measure on the wall once it's done.
Important to check where struts and beams are as it will be a challenge to cut. Once marked, cut out the plaster board using a plasterboard knife. Slide your shelf in and fix it to a beam. Check with spirit level to make sure level. Once shelf is secure, I used cornice cement to start putting around the edges. This is a long process as it takes lots of applications to get the corners right.
After I was happy with the look, I primed the wood. And then coat with an enamel paint. I chose Dulux Almond Milk.
I then cut wooden facing trim to go over the top of some of the shelves as a lip to stop jars from falling off the shelf.
- Step 2:
Floating shelves
I wanted something quite secure so I hunted on YouTube until I found something I liked.
I decided to go with a floating look a hidden frame within a top and bottom panel.
Because my wall has three sides and the wall is not the same at the top and the bottom, I had to measure each piece to cut individually. The drop saw made this a lot easier. Make sure you use a square ruler to get your lines straight before cutting.
I used 30 x 30 Pine wood to use as the frame. To help me get the spacing right and the level I used a laser level. Game changer!
I didn't support beams so I had to use wallmates. I put two in each wall. I used an old-school method of doing angles by laying the wood on top of each other and drawing with a ruler where the lion meets then cutting my angles.
When I was happy with the framing I cut my top and bottom panels using the circular saw and a rail on some support stands and clamps. Before laying the sheets down I put Liquid Nails and then nail gun them on with 15mm nails.
To finish it off.. I had to cut my 4 mm trim facing back to 3.6 because that was the total thickness of my shelf with the framing and the plywood, top and bottom. Using my router, I mounted it underneath my Triton table and used a curved bit to take a few mules off each panel. When finished I put the facing on with Liquid Nails and nail gun. Then puttied up all the holes and sand down with 240-grit before putting clear varnish on.
Was pretty chuffed with the outcome.
- Step 3:
Building cabinets
First I used painters tape to mark out where I would like my cabinets.
Then using the method I used for my shelves to make the bottom framing for my cabinets.
After getting all of your measurements for height and width etc, I cut my panels out of the 120 x 2400 x 17mm plywood AB using my circular saw with a 60T blade using support stands and rail with clamps. I sanded each one down with 240-grit with my DeWalt orbital sander back and front.
All panels primed x2 coats, painted in enamel water-base x 2 coats, then sealed with a clear varnish x 3 coats.
Then used Kreg pocket hole jig on each of the panels, clamped two together, and drilled them with 1 inch pocket hole screws.
After finishing making cubes, I placed them in the pantry and checked with the laser level to make sure they are level. Mine were not, so I used levelers (packers) to help me out.
When I was happy with the level, I screwed the cupboards to the wall.
To make those odd size shelves in the middle, I used off-cuts from 3mm plywood to make a template before drawing them onto 17 mm plywood to cut. Some shelves were made out of malamite.
I have a central power point, so I cut 4 mm circular holes in the back side of my cabinets to put the cords through underneath the bench for my coffee machine.
Final touch was the bench. I got it at Bunnings for a bargain as it was the last one there (Specrite European beech 2200 x 600 x 26).
I made a template out of leftover 3 mm plywood to help me get the angles perfect. I decided to go with two pieces for my bench. I found it easier to use the circular saw to cut these longer pieces. And it fit like a glove. Was very happy.
Then I cut myself some shelves for one of the cupboards by using the drop saw.
- Step 4:
Cupboard doors
For the doors I used 16 mm malamite because I needed to speed up time. Otherwise I would have used the plywood and done it from scratch.
I cut the malamite to measure then used malamite adhesive strips to finish the edges nicely.
When ironing on fusing, make sure you leave at least edging either side to make sure you can scrape the tape off once cooled with a blade nicely. Never directly on top as it will damage the tape - always use a baking paper or something between.
I found drilling the hinges easy after I got the method. I used the Kreg hinge jig. Fantastic! Does most of the measurements for you. Easy-to-read instructions. I then started attaching hinges.
This picture Is an example of what not to do. You live and you learn.
This was supposed to be done on the door itself, not the carcass. Once I did it to the door, I was back on track. With a little bit of fiddling around with the door hinge, I was able to get them sitting nicely together.
- Step 5:
Final product. So happy. Just goes to show if you stick to it you can accomplish great things.
- Help and inspiration:
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More inspiration for your pantry makeover
Bunnings Workshop member Acewoodhome completed a butler's pantry makeover with custom floor-to-ceiling open shelves using MDF.
Community member Renowayoflife created a new walk-in pantry using VJ panels and Gyprock for under $1000.
Get more inspiration from our collection of pantry ideas by Bunnings Workshop members.
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