Hi everyone, I have a sliding door in my room and would like to install a lock for added security and privacy. Is it possible to fit a lock on this type of sliding door It's a weatherboard house.
I’d appreciate any advice or recommendations from experienced members or experts.
Hello @waqarrasheed
Thank you for sharing your question about your sliding door. I recommend the https://www.bunnings.com.au/lockwood-satin-chrome-pearl-355-double-cylinder-deadlock_p4217045 as a possible lock for your sliding door. The wall where the receiver will be installed on will need to be modified if there is no stud wall in that location. A timber moulding of 70x35 dressed would be sufficient to hold the receiver in place and provide a sound base on the opposite side of the wall.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @TedBear and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thanks for the valuable feedback and for tagging other experienced members for their ideas.
I would love to hear from them too.
Hi @waqarrasheed. I agree with @EricL 's recommended lock. Of course it has to have a surface to lock onto and I see there is a gap between door and wall, due to the door hitting against the skirting board when it's closed. I recommend that you run a timber strip up the wall, which is the same thickness as your skirting board and a width that will take it back into the corner (ie from the corner to the inside surface of the door). This will give the doorway a more completed look when that gap is filled in, as well as offering a surface for the receiver to be anchored to.
Hi @waqarrasheed
firstly I would notch out the skirt to allow the door to close flush to the wall then install this cavity sliding privacy lock. It’s a much cheaper option and will deliver a much neater finish
Nailbag
Good Morning @waqarrasheed
I keep thinking between @Nailbag's suggestion and @TedBear's suggestion as it was also on my mind for a possibly easier solution. The door needs something solid to go into and if there is no stud then maybe liquid nails tho I kind of scrunch my face at that :) For a conforming look @TedBear 's idea works well but I like the latch effect of the lock and cutting the skirting board of @Nailbag's
One thing to keep in mind if you do cut the skirting board is the pin that holds the door may need to be moved a little as the door will extend another 20mm towards the wall.
Dave
Hi @waqarrasheed,
I thought I'd just add, that if this lock is simply to prevent people walking in unexpectantly, you might look towards a cabin hook. They are not fantastic for security purposes but are easy to install and will prevent someone from opening the door.
Mitchell
I too like @Nailbag 's suggestion for it's relative ease of installation and cheaper cost.
For my initial suggestion,, Id be surprised if there was no stud at the corner, so a timber piece could be screwed firmly there, with a couple of screws held by plasterboard anchors near the actual catch location to prevent the timber twisting if the locked door is pulled on. All screws would be recessed into the timber, filled and painted.
For Nailbag's suggestion, I'd be cutting a slot in the plasterboard the same size (or slightly taller) than the hole in the wall plate. If there is timber behind you're in luck (with a bit of drilling and or chiseling to do).
If no timber is there, you'll need to insert something behind the plaster to hold the plate's screws. What, depends on how much security you think that you need.
If it's just other householders you are wanting privacy from then I'd be looking at inserting two aluminium (or steel) strips, maybe 150mm long, and just wide enough that they can be fed (diagonally) through the slot.
(You'll also need to be able to insert a finger into the slot in the plaster, while keeping the hole small enough to be hidden by the wall plate.)
Drill a hole in the centre of each strip for the plate screws to firmly bite into.
Drill the holes for the plate screws through the plaster.
To get the strips in place, feed a piece of thin string through the plaster at each of the plate screw holes and feed it back out the slot in the plaster, then through the screw hole in the metal strip. Tie a knot to stop the string coming back. (Tie something to the other end too so that the string can't fall through the hole either side of the plaster.)
Then attach a strip of Blue-tack (or similar product) along both ends of the strips, on the non-knot side.
You should then be able maneuver the strips into place and push them against the inside of the plaster with your finger (hopefully it's not too dusty).
If you then carefully attach the lock's wall plate, the screws should cut through the string and tighten up against each of those backing strips.
It doesn't matter too much if they slip around a little once the screws have bitten in as you can guide them with your finger - as long as they don't cover the hole that the latch bolt slides through.
Just another thought in lieu of notching out the skirt.You could simply install a door stop that sits on top of the skirt fastened to the plasterboard inline with where the door meets the wall. Something like 42mm x 19mm DAR pine or something the same thickness as the skirting. This timber stop would provide a stable and strong to install the strike plate from the privacy latch. This would also mean you wouldn’t need to adjust the doors travel to accommodate a skirt cutout.
