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How to attach timber tabletop to base?

Innov8tive

I need to attach this 7 kg solid wood top to the base.

I'm wondering what the best way would be to attach it to the base.

I don't want to use clips that can be seen underneath the base as the finish needs to be clear of any fasteners used to attach the top to the base.

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Innov8tive

Figure 8 clips seem like the easiest option as there are very little specialist tools needed for it.

I have not attached a tabletop to a base before and I do well with adequate instructions on how to.

So that would be helpful. I don't have a router or any other specialised tool at this stage.

JacobZ

Hi @Innov8tive ,

Figure-eight fasteners would certainly be one way of attaching the top, although unfortunately we do not currently stock them.

Another straightforward option, using readily available hardware, would be Hafele 23 x 23mm Angle Brackets positioned around the inside of the base. They would be slightly more visible, but if they are placed on the inside of the frame, you would need to be underneath the table to ever see them.

You could screw one side of the bracket into the base frame and the other into the underside of the tabletop. I'd use eight brackets spaced evenly around the inside of the base to hold the top securely while keeping all the fixings concealed.

Just make sure the screws you use for the tabletop are appropriate for the thickness of the timber and short enough that there's no chance of them penetrating through the finished surface. If you could advise how thick the tabletop is, I could certainly offer a recommendation.

Allow me to tag @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @Noyade to see if they have any other ideas for attaching your tabletop.

Jacob

Dave-1

Good Morning @Innov8tive

Going over your photo a few times I like @JacobZ's suggestion of the angle brackets a lot.

You have a shelf either end of your stands frame that can hide screws ect from below. If you measure the distance between the A and B and then screw a right angled bracket to the base with the same spacing then you will be able to screw in to the side rails from underneath. The same caution about using too long a screw I also echo. I would stay with half the thickness of the top for the length of the screw.

The yellow is for the screws. Please note that they will also be short so as not to protrude through the timber.

Thar Shelf that sits below "A" will hide the brackets from easy view.

Option B is to screw through from the bottom of the rail into the base of the tabletop. You can countersink the screw holes so the screw either sits flush or can be puttied over. I only mention it as a "Just in case" idea :)

Dave

Noyade

As per @JacobZ

Drill four forstner holes in the bottom of those two sides, then drill pilot holes for accurately measured screws. Once screwed, putty up the holes.

And/or glue?

JacobZ

Hi @Innov8tive,

@Noyade's recommendation might be your best option if you don't want any visible fixings.

You can drill a clearance hole for the screw head in the underside of the rail, using a forstner bit or spade bit, then drill a pilot hole through the rail and use an appropriately sized screw to embed itself into the timber without punching out the top of the tabletop.

You could then cover the screw head using some timber filler.

Let us know what you think.

Jacob

Innov8tive

@JacobZ

Reading through your suggestions, I feel this is going to be the easiest option. I see you say you would use 8 to the inside of the base to secure the top well but @Dave-1 image below there are only four. Could you perhaps do a diagram of what you mean?

As for the depth of the table to recommend the right screws, it is 28 mm depth. Solid wood. I definitely do not want to penetrate the top piece so the shortest screws that will bite to the top and hold it securely in place would be good. I don't think the screws that come with the angel brackets will be a strong enough hold for the top so I will need to get appropriate screws.

Innov8tive

@Dave-1

I like @JacobZ idea as well as yours. The one I feel to go with at this point. I mostly understand what you are saying from your diagram and explanation, but it is hard for me to imagine in my head actually doing it. I guess I will buy what I need and then post some images here prior to fastening everything in to see that I have it right.

Option B could work too, screwing it all in from underneath. I am not that fussed about countersinking the holes if they really cannot be seen.

Innov8tive

@Noyade

Thank you.

Innov8tive

@JacobZ

I think @Noyade suggestion is also good but I am going to lean towards yours because I think I would not fare well using the other method due to inexperience and really do not want to have to fix a mistake with it.

EricL

Hi @Innov8tive

Please keep us updated with your progress, and don't forget to post an update once you have the tabletop attached to the table legs. I'm sure everyone will be keen to see it assembled.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @Innov8tive

The sketch I drew is for indicative purposes, closely followed but what I would be using. Its entirely up to you to use 4, 6 or even 8 brackets. It really comes down to how you feel with the security of the top to the base (As in overhang and placing say a pot plant on the edge) I would err on the side of caution and go for say 6 :)

Dave

Innov8tive

@EricL

I definitely will update withy progress and share the final piece when I've managed to fit it. I'm doing a bit of planning ahead and am hoping to get to the point where I can attach it this weekend or early next week so everyone can see the end result.

Innov8tive

@Dave-1

Given that it is 7 kg and 28 mm depth I would go for 6 at this stage and add another two of I feel it isn't enough. Will see how it all pans out. 🙂

Nailbag

Hi @Innov8tive

I would lean towards using the brackets as it will be the easiest solution when selecting suitable lengthed screws. Going for the thickest gauged that fit through the bracket holes will provide the best fastening.

Nailbag

Innov8tive

@Nailbag hello.

I agree that the brackets is the best choice. As @Dave-1 mentioned perhaps it is best to get half the size screws of 28 mm so it still bites into the top without going all the way through and like you say nothing bigger than the actual width of the bracket screw hole but close enough to be a good fit. 🙂

Dave-1

Good Evening @Innov8tive

Remember to factor in the height of the metal right angle bracket, as you are going for half the distance of the timber top the metal will be around 1mm ish for both into the base and also the side of the stand. The brackets depth has caught me out before and not given enough thread to bite into the timber.

Dave

Innov8tive

@Dave-1

I'll do a fair bit of measuring before buying the brackets. Thanks for pointing that out.

Innov8tive

@JacobZ @Dave-1 @Nailbag

I am considering going with these screws. They are only 12 mm but maybe I should step it up to an extra mil or two?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-4g-x-12mm-zinc-plated-hinge-long-thread-countersunk-head-timber-screws-100-pack_p2433594

MitchellMc

Hi @Innov8tive,

Typically, you'd want to use the longest possible screw that's still shorter than the thickness of the material you're screwing into. This gives you the maximum holding power while ensuring the screw doesn't penetrate through the other side.

For example, if the material is 20mm thick, you might choose an 18mm screw. The 12mm screws could certainly work, particularly for securing a tabletop, but they don't provide a huge amount of holding power.

If you've got some additional thickness available, as you mentioned, I'd be inclined to step up to a slightly longer screw.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Morning @Innov8tive

See this is where it gets hard to decide. The countersunk bit may not work with the holes in the bracket unless you enlarge them a little, but you will end up with around 10mm into the timber. I have used these type before as they have a nice shaped head. They are also stronger then black screws that you may see (The fancy black ones I bought sheered off) Just in case you are thinking of spray painting the angles black :) I used a permanent marker pen to colour the heads black :) That way less is noticed.

Zenith 8G x 15mm Galvanised Button Head Stitching Timber Screws - 100 Pack (for the size not the quantity :) )

Have a look half way through my project at the screws D.I.Y. snooker and pool table and then the colouring of the silver is at the end.

Dave

Innov8tive

@MitchellMc

Thank you.

Innov8tive

@Dave-1

Morning. Great job on your DIY snooker table by the way. I do not think I will spray paint any of the screws in this case as they really are not going to even be seen.

Looking at these screws, I think they will actually be better than the original ones I was considering. I will put them on my list and have a look around bunnings at other screws while I am there. All the little decisions that can make a big difference eh. Thank you.

Nailbag

Hi @Innov8tive I would follow @MitchellMc recommendations as they are spot on.

Nailbag

Innov8tive

Hello @Nailbag

Yes @MitchellMc advice was sound. I ended up going with a 15 mm screw in the end. Will be checking the size prior to screwing anything in and if needed will go get a longer screw.

Innov8tive

Hello @Dave-1

Lining up the angle brackets but not yet precise measurements - just planning.

Also the 15mm screws are not going to be long enough. I reckon I'm going to need about 30 - 32 mm as it needs to get through a 28 mm top and then bite into the actual top frame to secure it.

I will drill some pilot holes prior which I feel will help for a cleaner fasten and less risk of splintering the wood.

EricL

Hello @Innov8tive

My best advice is to do a test fit to make sure that you don't accidentally drive through the surface of the table.

Eric

Innov8tive

@EricL

My thinking is that a 15 mm screw is not going to drive through a 28 mm depth tabletop. But I will obviously test the new size screw to make sure it won't go the while way through. Is what I'm saying making sense as it is in my mind.

EricL

Hello @Innov8tive

Yes, it is, I would suggest getting a 20mm and a 25mm just to be on the safe side.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @Innov8tive

:) heheheh whoops, think i missed explaining something with the bracket installation.

So the brackets are around the wrong way (from the way I was thinking)

The yellow part is the top of the bracket, the blue is the outline. So effectively they need to be turned 180deg from where they are now :)

This is the measurement I was thinking about to get right. So you would draw in pencil the whole of the desk on the underside of the table. Then you have the brackets you would screw to the table top. This you could then place over the whole and all the brackets would line up inside the whole against the rails so you could screw in from the side. No extra height added to the table (if you leave the brackets around the way you have placed them they add a mm of space plus screw heads)

The way you have laid out the brackets will work :) But might look nicer if you spin the brackets around so the table top will be flush on the timber rails. I can scrounge up a right angle and some timber if I am confusing,, just let me know :)

Dave

Innov8tive

@EricL

Got it. I think I might need to start coming up with a plan to sort all my different screws and nails!