Laundry door frame

Brad

After 60 years the rot has set in. Laundry

Ledge

Drifting away

Window

Things I know -

Standard door opening.

Shorter than standard height.

Double brick constrution.

140 x 50mm frame.

I can find 140 x 45 in H3

Sash cover is twisting off the inside.

Polar door frame is too high, narrow and too wide to fit the window and be flush inside.

Lynx steel frame looks to be too narrow

What I don't know -

How it is fixed to the cavity?

If it is structual?

What I hope -

The widow is ok and I don't need to test out a polar window fitting to a polar door frame and pack the frame gap at the one side..

It looks like a swap of like for like unless someone has another bright idea?

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Andy_Mann

@Brad, it doesn't look to be a real drama, & fixing what's there would be the most cost effective approach.

I'm not 100% sure of how your door frame was installed, but at worst, the vertical sections were cut to length, tapped into place & spacers installed to provide alignment & trueness.

It wouldn't be load bearing if it was tapped into place between the floorlevel & the top of the door brickwork, so removing it should be fine.

I know that back in that era, brickies fit wooden pieces in the course at floor level, & that skirting board fitters nailed their boards into them, so maybe something like that could've been done for door jambs too.

To find out either way. sand back the paint on the inside of the door jamb, to see if it was nailed, screwed or tapped in place.

Next thing to do is pry off the wooden strip which is in the middle of the jamb (the part that the door rests against when closed), with a chisel.

Either just cut out the section of rotted wood, & glue a cut to size piece in it's place, or remove & replace the vertical section of the jamb.

If you don't have a piece of wood wide enough, glue 2 smaller peiced together & cut to size.

Hope you find this helpful.

Brad

Thanks @Andy_Mann that is helpful.

The top was fitted first and there is a part mitre join where they changed the thickness from window to door. Other side is a butt joint.

Replacing from window down is looking a good option, taking the quad off the front will reveal the sins of the builders.

New jamb all around as there is no match to the existing and a larger quad would cover the cavity which the existing only partly does.

Baretta11

Wouldn't there have to be a steel lintel over the door, otherwise the brickie wouldn't have been able to continue the brickwork above the door?

Brad

No lintel on the outside brick work, there is a concret one over the back door and bathroom window extended to make a porch.

Internal wall does show signs of some sort of insert in the sides that probably extends to the top going by my office window.

They may of used a tension bar instead of a lintel on the outside wall.

Hesbia

Jason

HI @Brad,

Hope all is well. Just curious how you are going with the door frame replacement?

Jason

Brad

Still on the to do list, I live in the wrong state to get a lump of wood the right size from special orders.

Been side tracked with a leaking tap leading into a leaking solar valve and a few other loose ends.

Might be a router and door shaped hole in my life soon that needs filling.

Jason

Good luck with it @Brad. Sounds like you have a bit on your plate.

Jason

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