How to mount dryer with no studs?

Hi @bect73,

It's great to see you've received some excellent advice from @Former Workshop member. As they've mentioned, the only suitable option is to bridge the gap between the studs with timber. You should find the studs spaced 450mm apart and potentially in the corners if it is a tiny room. If you haven't already tried one, I'd suggest investing in a stud finder. Alternatively, if there are no studs available for some unusual reason, please post an image of the room, and our helpful members might have some alternative suggestions.

Mitchell

Eduardo

Sorry I'm late, only just discovered this place.

Having been thinking about mounting a dryer for a while, I recently purchased a dryer stand from britec.com.au be prepared its a bit pricey but buy once cry once and you can take it with you when you move and no need to put holes in the walls.

Jason

Thanks for joining in the discussion @Eduardo. It's fantastic to have you as a member of the Bunnings Workshop community.

Feel free to post anytime you have something to add to a discussion, need a hand or have a new project to share.

Welcome,

Jason

What screws should I use to attach brace to the wall please? Batten screws or just timber screws? Do I use the same screws to attach brackets to the brace? My kit only came with expansion bolts and I understand they are for concrete/solid walls.

It's great to hear from you again @bect73.

I don't believe we ever managed to ascertain whether you have timber studs behind the plaster. Is the brace you're referring to a piece of timber to bridge the gap between the timber studs? If so, you can use Zenith 14G x 65mm Galvanised Type 17 Batten Bugle Head Timber Screws. To secure the mounting brackets to the bridging timber, it might be best to pre-drill the timber at the locations for the brackets mounting holes. You can then insert bolts from the rear side to have protruding thread sticking out from the mounting timber. The bracket can then be secured to the mounting timber with nuts. I'll include an image below to illustrate.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Hi Mitchell, I am purchasing a stud finder today, but yes you have nailed it 😊 I am using a piece of wood to bridge the gap between studs. I will upload some pics and that may help with my inquiry. The directions are for installing on a solid wall where expansion bolts are used and included. Bec

@bect73,

Does the dryer mount directly onto these expansion bolts, or do they fix a mounting bracket to a solid wall? Classically dryers use a Clothes Dryer Bracket Wall Mounting Kit or Universal Clothes Dryer Wall Mount Kit. These types of mounts would just be screwed directly into the bridging timber.

I look forward to seeing the expansion bolts and mounting bracket.

Mitchell

I have timber studs. I have a drill and bits and also the bits so you can countersink screws/bolts to sit flush with the support brace I’m going to attach to studs when I find them. Could I use tech screws to secure my piece of wood to the studs?

Here are pictures of laundry above sink where I would like to mount dryer, the bracket kit( not sure what plastic cones are for) the dryer and the 2x4 piece of wood to attach to studs and then attach dryer

Walzz

@bect73 Once you've found the stud centres, mark the support brace and drill a clearance hole at each marked position for the fixing screws.
Since you are penetrating 50mm of bracing timber and 10mm of plasterboard, I suggest using a pair of 10G x 100mm Countersunk Timber Screws at each stud position. They will self drill into the stud, and self countersink into the timber brace. The screws provide 40mm of bite into each stud.
10G x 100 gal screws.jpg

Hi @bect73

It's great that you've received fantastic advice from @Walzz. It's possible that the cones are for the back of your dryer to prevent it from tilting forward. However, have a look at your installation manual and see if your machine came with an extra two brackets for the bottom. I recommend giving the store you purchased your dryer from a call and inquire how the cones are installed. I suggest investigating the back of your dryer and seeing if there are slide-in slots for the cones.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your dryer mounted and operational.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thank you for your help. I’ve marked my piece of timber where studs. Piece of timber is too long so I will cut to size and double check markings before I pre drill holes. I have brought 14G 75mm timber screws to use. There are 3 studs to secure to so 1 screw in each should be enough to secure it I think?

small screws are for the brackets.

I'd prefer if you used two screws per stud @bect73 and something longer than 75mm. 100mm would be better. 75mm - 45mm timber and 10mm plaster leaves only 20mm of screw thread in the timber stud. It's better to be safe than sorry. How about these Zenith 14G x 100mm Galvanised Type 17 Batten Bugle Head Timber Screws - 25 Pack?

Alternatively, if you have a drillbit larger than the head of those 75mm screws, you could place counter-sunk holes in the timber bridge. If you drill into the 45mm thick timber 20mm, that would give you 40mm of screw thread in the studs.

Those cones are for the bottom of the dryer. They hold it out from the wall to compensate for the depth of the timber bridge.

Mitchell

I will countersink the screws into my timber. I have to tools to do it. I also bought the hex sockets for the screws too. I will use 2 screws per stud on your advice. I will keep you all updated on my progress. Wish me luck 😊

Well I’ve got the support beam up and brackets attached. I did make one mistake and not allow space for the dryer to be lifted onto the brackets with the over hang on the ceiling, but I’ve patched the holes and I’ll give it a paint and no one will ever know.

now all I need is a bit of muscle to help with the lift. Not too bad a job for my first effort.

@EricL @MitchellMc

Thank you for all the information and guidance you have given me. I think I have done a pretty good job so far. Support beam is up, (for the second time) and brackets attached, just require some muscle now to help me hang it. I did forget to leave enough space to lift the dryer onto brackets due to low ceiling point, but I’ve filled holes and painted them. I will post a pic once the dryer is hung, until then here is my progress

Fantastic work, @bect73! I'm so pleased you have that sorted; you've done an excellent job.

Please feel free to reach out anytime you need assistance. We're here to help.

Mitchell

Greg23

Hi MitchellMc,

I'm also going to attempt to mount my dryer to the wall and found this thread super useful, so thanks all for the great info.
I was wondering if there was a big difference if using Coach Screws vs Batten Screws to fix the bridging timber to the studs?

Hi @Greg23

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's marvellous to have you join us, and thank you for sharing your question about coach and batten screws.

Both screws have similar attributes from gauge size, depth and finish. The major difference between the screws is the head. One is countersunk and finishes flat on the surface of the panel. The coach screw, however, finishes proud of the surface and becomes a tripping hazard on flat surfaces. Bu this won't be an issue for your project.

In this instance you can use both types. Just keep in mind to drill pilot holes for the screws so that you don't accidentally snap the heads off.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Greg23

Hi Eric,

Thanks for your help!
Should I use washers to fasten the Metal bracket to the timber piece?
My timber bridge is a 90 x 35 mm piece. I was wondering what would be the best type of screws to attach the bracket to the timber bridge.
The holes in the bracket are 50 mm in diameter.

Hello @Greg23

Was that a typo error and you meant to say 5mm? Looking at the dryer bracket I suggest using a screw that is at least 12g in size. If you are drilling into the 35mm side, then the screw has to be just as long. If you've set it up that you'll be screwing into the 90mm side, then you can use a screw length of at least 75mm.

I also suggest having a look at this discussion - How do I fix a dryer bracket to existing timber batten? by @StevenNobol. In the discussion it was suggested to reverse mount a cup head bolt and have the nuts on the other side with washers. You'll be able to see it on the render.

I recommend bringing the bracket to the store so that you can test the nut and bolt fittings on the mounting holes.

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

Oscar26

Hi Mitchell,

Could you message me to provide some assistance for mounting the same dryer but with different substrates. It appears to be a render ontop of a concrete brick wall with hollow sections.

ps the cones (standoffs) are sized for brackets being secured to the wall without the support beam. I assume the standoffs got extended the same thickness as the support beam to keep the dryer level. The dynabolts provided are 14 mm (M10) x 75 mm which seems like overkill if its a solid cement wall.