Child Item

How to waterproof and repair a damp corner of the floor?

One corner of our house in our bedroom can get damp and moist when it rains.

Only this corner so far.

At first we thought its happens because the finished ground level of the yard is too high (higher than bedroom floor). But after we took out the soil lowering the ground level, the problem still persists.

Visually we do not see any brick wall cracks.

One mate told us, "even" the ground level was too high, theoretically the interior floor should not be damp and the problem is the vapor barriers of our concrete slab failed.

The problem is , we dont know how we should approach this and from which kind of professionals we should seek help first

We contacted waterproofing companies and they told us that :
May we also suggest that the plumber double check the fall and that the diameter of the drainage pipe is of adequate size. It would be good to have the pl;umber look at the rest of your property as you may need some additonal drainage system put in place.

1) There is only a rainwater drainage downpipe near that corner. No sanitary drainage pipe. And we installed a new downpipe to make sure there wont be water spilling out from the underground pipe.

2) We understand that upgrading the drainage system can help (There is an old AG drainage system alongside the house).

3) We regraded the side aisle of the house to make sure the water can flow away from that corner. But things only improved a little.

Isnt the first thing we need to do is directly addressing the problem : the leaking slab?

We watched youtube and some companies applied the liquid rubber to the sides of the concrete slab, like this:

It seems much more effective and on point? If there are some "hairline" crack around the corner of the slab, put something to seal them seems to make more sense.

So complicated.
https://construemax.com/leaking-slab-foundation/
One useful link we found about this problem.

What are the most affordable way to solve this? Thank you in advance for any advice.

Any experienced members are specialized in this kind of issues? Really love to hear you thought. Thanks

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Repairing

Plumbing

Flooring

Comments

JDE

Have you considered that you may have a leaky roof or your gutter is leaking into the wall cavity in the corner. JDE

MitchellMc

Hi @ivanptr,

As @JDE has mentioned, it is always best to consider different reasons why this dampness might occur. Entry through the concrete slab is just one of the possibilities.

When did you first notice this issue occurring? Has it always been damp in that room, or is this something new?

I know you said this is in the corner of the house, but are there any water pipes or bathrooms adjacent to this area where leaks could be coming from?

Having a downpipe in that corner is a little suspicious and would most likely have something to do with the issue. You mentioned that you installed a new downpipe, but were the pipes checked for cracks or damage at the same time?

If the water is coming from the outside, I suggest your best bet is doing some exploratory excavation. Dig a 120mm wide trench hard up against the wall to a depth of 600mm. You can paint the side of the foundation and lower bricks with Crommelin 4L Exterior Grade Brushable Waterproofer. It would also be good to install Vinidex 100mm x 20m Socked Slotted Draincoil and connect it to the stormwater line or ensure the current agline is functional and not blocked with sediment.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/17647#Comment_17647

@MitchellMc @JDE

Thank you for letting us know about different possible causes. When it comes to the roof, we hired the roofer to replace all screws of our metal roof last month. But we just forgot there has been one problem lingering since we moved in - dripping from fascia / soffit when it rains. Not sure if the rainwater can flow back to bedroom?

And yes @MitchellMc , the corner in the bedroom has always been damp since we moved in.

Though the challenge is, all waterproofers/ roofers who service our suburb are fully booked for months.

Is there any ways we could investigate the root cause ourselves?

So, these days have been very hot without a drop of rain, what if we pour water to the different parts of the house to find out the issue ourselves?

Yesterday, we used the watering can to pour 3 litre of water outside the corner:

And after 4 hours , our moisture meter showed the reading increasing from 7% to 18% in the corner of our bedroom.
Could this be enough to come into the conclusion that the concrete slab/ brick wall definitely leads to ingress and need waterproofing?

____________________________________________

Also, about exploratory excavation, we are very confused about the foundation. After we took out 6cm thickness of soil up against the wall, we couldnt dig deeper anymore. Is this the bottom?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/71508#Comment_71508

Hello @ivanptr

Thank you for the update. In this situation, I suggest doing a process of elimination. I would start with fixing the leak from your fascia. This leak is possibly happening under your roof and is getting scooped by your ceiling. It could also possibly be leaking into your wall cavity causing the damp corner.

Waterproofing the side corner of your house is also another option. Any cause you can eliminate is one less thing to think about. You mentioned that you had your roof serviced. There is a possibility that one of the screws seals has failed. Putting a dab of Selleys 290ml Clear Storm Waterproof Gutter And Roof Sealant on each screw head eliminates this possibility.

I'm afraid this will not be a quick fix, looking for the source of the moisture leak will take time.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

JDE

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/71508#Comment_71508

Ivanptr

The fact that pouring water on the ground affected moisture would seem to support the idea that the moisture is from around the bottom. Your slab should be 100mm thick and then there is a footing below that which varies in depth depending on soil type. When the slab is poured a trench is dug, then form work (framed) at the top. This then has a plastic lining placed in it along with mesh. The concrete is then poured in. It is not uncommon for concrete to bulge out between the bottom of the form work and the top of the trench. So the concrete you are seeing after 6cm won't be the bottom of the concrete edge. Sometimes there is a lip around the edge on brick veneer slabs to allow moisture inside walls out rather than going inside (hence the bulge before 10cm). I suggest following Mitchell's idea of investigating a little deeper. The concrete you are hitting shouldn't be very deep and is most likely just a bulge. Is there any evidence of a plastic membrane on the outside of your concrete? JDE

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99034#Comment_99034

@JDE , no sign of plastic membrance so far. Understood 70% of your explanation after some googling.

This house shown in the video:
https://youtu.be/ArqQ_oT1VBg?t=164

which seems to have an similar concrete edge bulging out , like what we are facing here.

And these people dug a trench next to the footer.

Just to make sure our understanding is correct, we drew a picture :

Are we getting this right? 🤔 Please correct us if we misunderstand something

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99033#Comment_99033

Yes! Process of elimination, a very good idea. We feel like we are making progress:

Brick veneer and footer : better to paint some Crommelin 4L Exterior Grade Brushable Waterproofer sealing the side corner

Roof screw: no need to investigate, just spray Roof Sealant , easy

Fascia: Hire someone to inspect it
Downpipe: ??

@MitchellMc @EricL @JDE

About the downpipe, this morning we dug out all the soil surrounding the section and the downpipe might be the "main cause", since the soil are are very moist even without rains for days

If this section really leaks again, then we will be very confused as our plumber replaced this section twice already.

There are 2 reason we could think of:

1) The finished ground level has always been too high so when we grade the ground, it became much lower and the pvc pipe is not buried not deep enough, so when you walk above it, this could dislocate the joint again.

2) The last section of the whole rainwater drainage system which discharge the water to the street has always been "squashed" by rocks. Thats what the plumber told us from the camera inspection. And could this lead to backflow and water pressure causing leaks in other sections?

If this must be solved, then I guess we will bite the bullet $, and ask the plumber to do the work using bobcat or some excavator, dig out the collapsed section buried deep in the slope.

On the other hand, we are tempted to create another route for this downpipe, simply reduce the burden on the existing drainage system. Seems to be much easier and less expensive

JDE

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/116309#Comment_116309

Not suggesting you need to do this just a picture to show what I was trying to explain The bulge at the bottom is your footing and you need to dig down beside it

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126181#Comment_126181

@JDE Really appreciate it! the picture cleared up our confusion. We will continue digging down beside it.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/116309#Comment_116309

Hi @ivanptr,

That soil looks less dry than the topsoil, but I wouldn't say it seems overly wet. You can place your garden hose up into the gutter on full and see if any water is escaping the pipe.

What concerns me a little is where you suggest the leak in the gutter is coming from. It's dripping from the fascia, not the gutter, and as @EricL mentioned, it could be getting sucked into the roof and wall. It might be worth removing the eave vent and seeing if you can see/feel the roof structure. If there is any moisture or rot in the timber there, it could be the source of some of the moisture in the wall.

Given you noticed the moisture level rise when pouring water at the slab, it could be a combination of issues. I'd dig down as far as you can around the slab, scrub all the dirt off best you can and paint with the waterproofer. Installing Agline and drainage gravel in a trench next to the foundation would also be a good idea. Don't forget to follow up on this roof leak, though.

Mitchell

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126186#Comment_126186

@MitchellMc

Another great lesson learnt. We followed what you suggested, testing the downpipe ourselves, our hose is broken so we used a 9-litre bucket instead. You're right. No leaking / dripping from the downpipe at all !!

So it's the poor soil drainage that we need to deal with. We are now digging a trench now to make a AG line next to foundation. Will head to Bunnings to get the waterproof paint.

____

About the roof,

we still haven't remove the eave vent, and did not see any sign of rot from outside. but we used moisture meter and detected 50-90% moisture around the fascia and soffit.

And we also noticed a crack here:

Which type of tradesperson is capable of telling if it is leaking from fascia into our wall cavity causing the damp corner? We browsed the roofers websites and they seem only to provide installation or replacement. We see there are some leak detection companies offering use of thermal detection, is it the right service for our circumstance?

Or the best way is, simply hire the roofer to replace the fascia?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/132779#Comment_132779

Great work @ivanptr. You'll have this issue sorted in no time.

For the roof, possibly a handyperson that is interested in investigating the issue for you would be the most cost-effective option. We need to find out why the water is leaking and what damage has been done, as that crack doesn't look fantastic. To resolve the leaking gutter, it could be as easy as painting the inside of the gutter with a sealant. That brushable waterproofer I recommended earlier is perfect for fixing leaks in guttering. They'll also be able to pull off the eave vent, have a poke around and assess that fascia boards' structural integrity. If they discover major rot in the ceiling space, you'll likely then have to call a qualified tradesperson to fix the damage.

Mitchell

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/136837#Comment_136837

@MitchellMc ok! we will get a handyman for inspecting fascia board by opening the eave vent + ceiling space to investigate the issue.

If the leak we see is from the corner of the fascia board instead of the metal gutter, should we still paint inside the gutter? or seal the corner of / replace the fascia board ?

___________

For the soil drainage, last week we booked the plumber with a restricted builder license, and he came this morning for quote. We didnt use this company before so would love to hear your thought. He walked around our backyard and commented:

1) The soil away from the retainer wall looks drier, and the bedroom damp corner is caused by the poor soil drainage nearby. And the water is from the higher ground.

So he proposed the work he can do for us:

- The digging with machine down left hand side of house to expose footing.
- The waterproofing along edge of house.
- The laying of new 100mm socked aggi line from back of house to front yard.
- The back filling of trench with 20mm gravel and installation of 200mm pit in back yard connected to aggi line.

We are considering to use a plumber because after we took away 4cm thickness of soil beside the footer along the house, we cannot dig deeper anymore, the rocks are at a much higher level than the rest of the backyard. We have been using this Ryobi 1500W SDS+ Rotary Hammer Drill for grading the ground level of our backyard when our spade hit some rocks occasionally. Works very well if the soil composition is about 70% clay soil + 30% rocks. But now the whole ground base alongside the house is compacted with large rocks 60% + 40 soil. It took us a very long time to get the rocks out.

It makes us wonder, what tool do you guys use? or better to hire somebody for excavation?

______

For the roof, he mentioned even if the fascia board is wet, it is unlikely the water can go down to the corner of our bedroom because board is another component separate from the brick wall. (Sorry we forgot his exact wordings but pretty sure that's what he meaned)

We're not sure if this makes any sense but we will get a handyman to inspect it..!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139610#Comment_139610

Hi @ivanptr

Your goal is to stop the leak coming from your gutter and possibly the fascia. If both areas need repair, I suggest fixing them both, this takes them off the list as possible sources of water coming into the house.

If the excavation is becoming manually too hard, hiring someone with a machine will make the job go faster. I suppose these days it's difficult to book plumbers. I usually suggest getting other quotes for comparison, but if they are the only game in the area, you'll not have a choice but to hire them.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your new drain laid out.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141505#Comment_141505

@EricL Cant agree with u more, it is not a small expense so we booked another quote for next week for comparison.

Now we are after some non-corrosive products that can clean the mold off the bricks / mortar without damaging the brick wall. We hope to get the mold off the brick before any waterproofing.

______________

As for the impact of leaky gutter on fascia, got it!

So now we need to seal the leaky gutter first to stop further damage.

Watched the video shared by @MitchellMc , but one challenge is our gutter is very narrow.

Basically we could only fit 2 fingers in. I reckon we will need a smaller wire brush (and rust converter) to treat rusty surface of the gutter first.

Something like this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/josco-3-piece-hand-wire-brush-kit_p6114348

Will it be a problem if we dont use bandage after 1st coat, and just apply 1st thick coat + 2nd coat of waterproofer?

Not too sure if we can place the bondage properly with 2 fingers.

(Photo of our narrow gutter, taken before all rusty screw were replaced last month.)

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142923#Comment_142923

@ivanptr,

Some 30 Seconds 2L Spray And Walk Away, and a pressure washer will get that wall perfectly clean for you. The chemicals used in the cleaner won't damage your brick wall.

Generally, you'd remove a few of the first row of screws to gain access to the gutter. You'll then be able to lift the roof sheet slightly. This might be an excellent opportunity to check inside the roof cavity. You can use the Crommelins product without the bandage, but it does help to reinforce the repair.

Mitchell

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143914#Comment_143914

@MitchellMc @EricL @JDE

Just want to revive this post by sharing our latest situation,

we emailed the plumber and remind them several times to waterproof the corner as well, and we even already dug out some soil around that section (in blue):

They said okay, no problem.

In the end:

When they installed the Ag drain (while I was not onsite), they only waterproofed the section alongside the house:

And they explained:

"When we uncovered the earth from the footing level on the left hand side of house and under the downpipe along the back, we found that there was no moisture on the back wall at all. Due to this, we did not waterproof the small section under the downpipe as it was not required."

A little bit disappointed actually.

They found no moisture around that section, can this happen because we have already dug some soil out and left that section exposed for days and the moisture already got evaporated?

If i were them, i would have done what i promised the customer, waterproofing that corner as well for customer's peace of mind😂

Just want to hear you guys thought on thisss

I probably will buy some waterproofing products from Bunnings and do it myself!!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144699#Comment_144699

Hello @ivanptr

Was it specifically mentioned in your email/quote from the plumber? If it was, then they should do as you have asked. If the service was mentioned and included in your bill, you can say that the job was not done to your satisfaction. You had already prepared the area and specifically told them to waterproof it. You can escalate the issue with Fair Trade in your area.

However, if it proves to be too much effort, wastes a lot of your time and you were not unreasonably billed for the services, you might as well waterproof the area yourself.

Let me tag our experienced members @Adam_W, @diy_hausdesigns and @TedBear for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

TedBear

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145261#Comment_145261

Hi @ivanptr what a saga you have been through. Hopefully you are almost at the end. Your experience has been much worse than mine.

I had a similar floor dampness issue near a single-brick wall. In my case it was a matter of waterproofing the whole wall as heavy rain hit against it, which was enough to seep through at the bottom, and then adding the same type of drain along side the wall. Haven't had a problem with mine since, which was about 3 winters ago. But your soil is more dense and you might have the gutter problem too, so I can't guarantee that my solution would also be yours. I hope that it is resolved... have you found it still damp inside after all the work so far?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144699#Comment_144699

Hi @ivanptr,

I'd agree with the advice @EricL has provided.

On a side note, what was the waterproofing product they used? I can see the cement ledge they've created along the wall, but did they actually paint the wall with a waterproofing membrane?

Mitchell

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145704#Comment_145704

@TedBear, yes, its a saga we have been through 😅. So far its difficult to tell because the rainy season has been passed in QLD. This week the weather has been too good. we are now waiting for a downpour ! haha

One thing we must say first how we find this workshop forum valuable to us. Without you guys, we wouldn't know a thing about all the concepts and ideas - how to diagnose and investigate , what material / process needed to fix the issue, what possible cause for a little water ingress.

Even though the plumber only completed 90% of work this time, we are glad that when I first met the plumber, I could specify clearly what I want to do.

If we don't know a thing, and fully authorized the tradies to do anything they say is good, the situation "could hv been" worse. 🤣

@EricL, Yes, we mentioned 3 times that we want the corner waterproofed by Email , not just along the aggi drain, and also that small session. And we even attached a photo highlighting that corner. Their email response were positive. We have all the email record, but i guess we will do it ourselves. Fortunately its only a small section they "missed". Too much effort to bring the issue to Fair Trade.

Next project we we will manage better, some valuable lessons we learnt :

1) Weather: when it is related to external waterproofing, try to book the work after rainy season, as we rescheduled the work several times due to bad weather.

2) Specific: Another great lesson learnt from @MitchellMc!! need to be specific , next time if meet tradies for quotes, we could ask what waterproofing material they will use , and then have this specified on the quote.

3) Onsite: On the work day, I wasn't onsite and only my old parents were home. This was a big mistake. If I were there, I could immediately raise the issue to the tradies.

Hope any new renovator/ house owners reading this will learn from our lessons!!!

Love you guys! many thanks

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146041#Comment_146041

Hi @ivanptr,

I'm glad you've made a decision with the waterproofing. I'm sure your D.I.Y. journey will be very useful to our members who are planning on waterproofing the exterior of their house.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing all your waterproofing complete.

Eric

Adam_W

Hi @ivanptr, looks like I joined the chat too late but you've done some fantastic research, prep work & follow-up DIY yourself, well done & also to the great advice others have given.
Water issues are always so difficult. We're taught from an early age that 'water always runs downhill...' but the more you deal with it the more you find it seems to defy every law of physics at times.
From a brief reading of your issues I think the two problems are unrelated but the leaking gutter may have been exaggerating problems in that corner by introducing more water to the soil in that corner. The leak may also have been saturating the brickwork leading to some moisture penetration in that corner.
Moisture can rise up through slabs and walls when membranes have failed and realistically the best way to deal with this is to seal whatever is possible but also remove as much water as possible from the area.
Sounds like things are working for you now so keep us all in the loop!

ivanptr

Hi everyone,

The plumber we hired only built an agdrain channel from the corner of our house. Shorter than we what we agreed upon. It should be longer aligning with the retaining wall We have learnt a lesson about how we should make it clear on the quote.

And because of the water table, under ground water is still flowing from the neighbors higher ground to our bedroom.

Its a bit of frustration. But we wont give in.

So now, we are planning to make an agdrain channel to keep the rainwater from coming in:

Agdrain -＞attached to a drainage pit -＞ then through a pvc pipe

2) For measurement of concrete humidity, what is the best way ?

We are getting contradicting signals from different methods-

Moisture meter: whenever it touches upon any concrete the reading reaches 90%, we selected masonary in the setting

Plastic bag : visually NO moisture trapped

Rust and mould : not quite relevant, since they have been around long before we moved in. And since moved in, we hv already fixed : broken downpipe outside the bedroom + installed a ag drain.

So we want to know if things have been improved after our projects.

Carpet : This is the most mysterious sign we just dont understand, the carpet was occasionally wet . And yet , if plastic bag on the concrete didnt trap any water...

3) We are going to dump this old and dirty carpet and replace it with vinyl plank. Is it a good idea? Seems the carpet can faciliate mould growth easier than plank.

Lastly, many thanks for any advice and thought, or ideas. We will keep fighting until this problem get solved.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/19689#Comment_19689

Hello @ivanptr

My vote goes to the traditional moisture indicator the plastic bag. It will always show you if there is any hint of moisture as the plastic will have water droplets trapped on the surface. If you decide to use vinyl plank make sure that it is the waterproof type or as they call it the hybrid type. A good example is the HanWood Home 5mm 2.64sqm Capella Oak Hybrid Waterproof Flooring. This 100% waterproof flooring solution can be installed in high moisture areas including kitchens, laundries and bathrooms.

Let me call on our experienced members @Vis-á-vis and @Adam_W for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

ivanptr

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/72532#Comment_72532

Thanks so much Eric,

Its a relief to hear your vote goes to traditional plastic bag approach.

Then , the situation might not be as bad as we think.

The moisture on carpet might be due to condensation and indoor humidity.

Ok, the Hanwood planks will be on our to buy list. And today we will remove the whole carpet.

And stick more plastic bags on the whole concrete floor, to make sure the mositure did not come from the concrete.

Do u hv any tips on how to get the rusted carpet nail out? We used a prybar but ended up taking out some bits of concrete out , as well. Not too good.

We are thinking to use angle grinder to grind the nail head. Any good ideas?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99663#Comment_99663

Using an angle grinder sounds like the most effective method @ivanptr. I'd then be inclined to pick up a can of Zinnser B.I.N Primer Sealer Stain Blocker and apply a squirt over the remains of the rusty nails. This should stop any rust stains from bleeding through into your new flooring. I wouldn't expect that to happen, but better safe than sorry.

Mitchell

Vis-á-vis

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146041#Comment_146041

Hi Ivan,

So much information here and have not had time to read it thoroughly but get the general idea of your ongoing issues. Below is some general information that you may or may not already be aware of. A decent waterproofing professional should be able to unpack your specific problem and offer a solution.

1. With any water ingress it is always best practice to deal with it from the positive side. In your circumstance that is outside.

2. Aim to drain as much water away from the area as possible.

- I can see you have already attempted this and the drainage looks to be in a good position - away from and slightly below the strip footing.

- Personally, I would never use flexible Agi pipe as it is prone to silt build-up and clogging which is very difficult to clear in later years. I would always use solid pvc pipe with slots cut underneath and an inspection/cleaning upright (at 45ish degrees) finishing above ground level so you can clean that pipe out later without excavating.

- Above that drainage pipe should be free-flowing aggregate - scoria or similar - and ideally a crushed rock/pebble/concrete overlay.

3. If you have earth or aggregate up against an exterior wall that is higher than your interior finished floor level you MUST have a waterpoof barrier in the form of a liquid or sheet membrane system to stop lateral damp.

4. If you have earth up against an exterior wall that is lower than your interior finished floor level then you need a damp course either installed in the brickwork or retrofitted in the lowest possible course above the earth level outside.

5. Even having done all of this you can have residual moisture in your walls that can take many months to disappear. This is what you may now be experiencing.

6. If you have moisture (but not running water) entering through masonry or concrete on the interior then you can stop this by applying a two-part epoxy vapour barrier. Products I use are Gripset E60, Ardex WPM 300 and Fosroc Nitoproof 310 which are all excellent products but must be applied carefully and with some knowledge/experience.

7. If you have more than moisture (rising water) entering via a concrete slab then really the only option is to inject either hydrophilic or hydrophobic (dependent on the exact situation) to fill any voids within and/or under the slab. Again, a decent waterproofing professional should be able to advise.

8. Not wanting to rain on your technology but the moisture meter you have is completely useless for what you are trying to achieve. It will not give you an accurate indication of moisture in concrete and only a very very rough idea of moisture in timber. In my job, I use a couple of moisture meters, the two of them are close to $3000, and still struggle with certain situations. For example, my Tramex X5 is specifically designed for concrete but can only measure to around 7% moisture so anything above this is basically measured at 100%. What you are using will only mislead you.

Feel free to ask any specific questions.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146332#Comment_146332

Hi @Vis-á-vis

Thank you so much for that in-depth list of recommendations. Let me tag @ivanptr to make sure they are aware of your suggestions. Water ingress I think it's one of the hardest things to fix. Especially if it has not been repaired for many years. Moisture is now heavily embedded into the masonry wall and floor and will take quite a while for it to all go away.

Eric

deluxe

Check for any pipes with water then silicon it for 24 hours. Needs to be seen.

Child Item