How to fill the holes and gouge in my door?

photo 2: for the round hole I would use dowel that suites the hole size glue in and use a Japanese saw to cut flush.

the key hole use a sharp chisel square all edges, cut a section of timber to fit both sides glue in place use a Japanese saw to cut flush then sand, fill any small gaps with a good filler and sand to finish.

Photo 3: as the moulding is no longer available, square all faces with a sharp chisel, if you are really keen grab a pice of timber rough shape the timber to suite the moulding, slot in and finish shaping, fill any small gaps with filler or mix up some plastic wood filler, fill the gap and shape to suite the shape of the moulding. This can be done by rolling a pice of dowel to create the curves, then sand to finish. You may be lucky and find some moulding at a timber recycling place to suite. (be careful not to mix too much hardener as it will set very quickly making shaping much harder to do)

photo: 4 clean all edges with sharp chisel cut a section of timber to suite the rebate glue in place sand back and fill any small gaps with filler sand to finish

All comments

just an fyi....delivery of the last one is $40

@r23on it is 51cm both ways or 551mm

It looks much better now you've sanded the edges. Relieved to hear that the attachments are staying on the Multi-tool. I had a look at your model at my local store and noticed that it only has 4 lugs to locate the head, so it will be crucial to get the heads on accurately, as you have now found. That's disappointing that it costs so much to get the masonite delivered. Have you tried asking neighbours if they have any left one Masonite? I always have some in my leftovers corner, so maybe others do too. (Sorry, I am not in your area. )

@TedBear no I didn't ask the neighbours 🙂

If you be on my area, I might hv finished this by now and started something else :@)

Cheers

Edit:- collected order and yes that us flimsy plastic sheet mot sure why it came under masonite search. Will have to return and packers will need to be cut as required.

in my garage, I got few types of wood pieces but not the size or tyoe we need

ok the 915 x 610 will do the job and the preprinted provided you don’t make any mistakes. can you do click and collect yet?

I have only just received the photos of the sanding it has come up well. make sure you cut the new section larger in size so you can sand back as need for a good fit

Hi @r23on not sure why pics are taking time

Re Order - I have collected my order but required masonite item isn't available for click n collect 😔

MitchellMc

Hi @newfast,

I've reached out to our team at the Bunnings Carlingford store and called in a personal favour to get this sorted for you. If you phone the store and ask to speak with Ashley, the Click & Collect specialist, she'll be able to work out a payment method (such as over the phone) and organise a sheet of 1220 x 915 x 3.2mm Masonite Whitecote for you to collect from the store.

I hope this assists.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

You rock @MitchellMc

On the phone now, bundle of thanks 😉

Got the gear ...bug thanks to @MitchellMc and Ashley from store

Now tomorrow, I will just place the packers to show how it looks as honey comb may need to be removed or cut strips from masonite and put top mid and bottom.

I wanna get this part right as if I remove honeycomb fullly no going back.

PXL_20210919_045431225.MP.jpg

MitchellMc

I'm so pleased that worked out for you @newfast. I couldn't bear to see your project halted at this stage after you've put in so much effort.

Keep up the great work!

Mitchell

its called the internet, and the marvels of cyber space then it could be the demands on Bunnings servers.

when you start mounting the parts in place, take the door off and lay it flat, the best way to do this is remove the hinge pins that way it is much easer to put the door back up and no screws to try and put back in

I can not stress any stronger use cardboard to make the template for the replacement section that way you can cut the shape need with out wasting timber

Hi Folks, I did some basic prep after work, the masomite is kind of slim n light so the wooden packers be best to go behind it.

Removed the main honey comb, vaccumed and gave another round of cleaning edges.

The wooden packer appears to be too big but I managed to insert it and mark it to cut

@r23on I am not sure if removing door be a right steo with my skills 😉

PXL_20210920_070503368.MP.jpg

It’s just a matter of knocking the pine out of the hinge in doth cases a 75mm nail tapping up ward will remove the pins .

secondly this is why is said to make the packers 50mm longer and to use the masonite as the packers even if the packers were 60mm longer it’s would not matter

slip the packets in 25rmm each side or 30mm each side. the thicket the packer the harder it is to get them in. the other approach is to come in at an angle top to bottom twisting up wards. in other words bring the packer is almost vertical then rotate the packer to the horizontal. to top it off the g clamps will not fit with that material.no where for the clamp to fit

Just to add another alternative for packers... to make it easier, given what you have, you could just use strips of Masonite as packers, now that you have plenty. The purpose is just to keep the inserted panel straight, not carry any load. This is what those thin strips of honeycomb were doing before. Suggestion:

Cut 3 strips, the width of the gap inside the door, (between the front panel and back. ie the width that you would have trimmed the timber packers down to). Make the lengths about 40mm longer than the hole, so 20mm can slide up inside each end of the hole.

Put glue down one edge of these strips and 20mm of each other edge's ends and slip in the gap vertically (they will slide down if horizontal), with glued edge at back.

Put 1 strip in centre & other 2 between that and the edges. Now you have 3 stiffeners.

Now cut 2 more strips 50mm wide and glue them in flat (not on edge) halfway into the vertical edges, so they protrude 25mm to form the side supports as shown in @r23on's earlier drawing. Clamp those in until glue dries. It would be wise to also cut some shorter 50mm strips to fill in edge gaps along top and bottom edges, (but not as essential, since vertical packers will align those edges).

Now you will ready to replace the panel.

(Make sure that you make the new panel to fit before you pack the hole, so you can slide the cardboard template in and out. Cut a finger hole in the middle of that template so you can handle it easily.)

@TedBear damn....that is some serious mind bogling thinking

I will cut the 3 one size and 2 other size strips tomorrow.

1 question ,m:- the masonute seems flimsy when I be cutting whats the best way...put it on 2 shairs or make it stand and hold it in angle while I cut with the saw

EricL

Hello @newfast

It's great that you've received fantastic advice from @TedBear. I suggest cutting the masonite panel on a flat surface or table to prevent it from oscillating while being cut. You can either get some clamps or have another person hold the panel to prevent it from lifting while you are cutting it.

Eric

The method I use for cutting masonite is often "score & snap", because it is, as you said, thin & flimsy. But you then need to file the edge square since it doesn't always snap off cleanly. A better method for you would be to lay it flat, score the surface with a knife, shallow first to get the line straight, then cut a bit deeper, then put it between chairs (cut-line is close to one of them), then use that groove to guide you as you saw through the board. Use the saw at an almost level angle, so that as many teeth as possible are sliding along the cut. If you saw too vertically the teeth will grab on the thin board and break through, rather than slide through neatly. That's easier and gives a better, smoother cut.

(Of you want to try the Score & Snap method, make sure you score the back too. I'd only use that for the two strips for the edges of the hole, because their width isn't critical, so messy edges won't matter.)

Not happy with myself....

Oops; What happened?

Hopefully having extra Masonite means it's an inconvenience, not a disaster.

(I have often described some of my projects as a series of repairs joined together. Welcome to the learning curve of D-I-Y.)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/irwin-550mm-fine-tooth-handsaw_p0127150

I need to ask did you try to cut this with a hack saw shown in other photos if so this will happen again you need a hand saw not a saw for cutting metal.

see this link

Also if you try score and snap with the amount of material on the edge it will happen as there is not enough supporting material

I have seen it on telly when people work with wood tgey use some sort of equipment to lock it and then it doesn't move.

In my case, the 1st few inches were great and I was kinda chuffed that its coming along and just then it went pear shape.

Will get the correct tool.

MitchellMc

Hi @newfast,

It's great to see @r23on has recommended the Irwin 550mm Fine Tooth Handsaw, which is fantastic at cutting straight lines. However, I believe you'd still find it quite hard to use that saw to cut the curved corners. A jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade is what's really needed for this job. You don't happen to have a jigsaw, do you? We're obviously trying to keep costs down for you, but sometimes, as you've experienced, projects can run into issues without the correct tools.

Mitchell

Like all DIY / handyman there are a lot of things that need to be taken into account such as tooling materials and abundance of information / ideas solutions plus endless supply of YouTubs, I did it this way, which in the end it boils down to experience or the lack of. This project of your is the perfect example where having the correct tools would have made all the difference, as Mitchell has stated, having a jig saw would be of great help but make sure you do watch some YouTube and learn a few tricks and how to use it and clamps to hold the material down other wise you will be heading out for more material.

If you are going to continue down the track of the DIY I suggest you have a supply of clamps and good quality clamps for holding parts in place or clamping down.

Unfortunately DIY is not a cheap exercise as you are learning.

Most of all I am looking forward to seeing the job completed.

@newfastfrom the photo, it looked like the piece broke due to lack of support... I am guessing that the back and forth pull of the saw caused the (hand held?) sheet to flex and break at the point where it was being held. As you noted earlier, it is a bit flimsy.

Ideally you would put the sheet on a bench (or table if you can stop it being damaged), clamp it and then sawing is done very close to the benches edge. That stops it being able to flex when the blade pushes and pulls on it. Clamps help, but if you don't have any, then holding the sheet down against the bench/table close to where you are cutting (not so close that your fingers at risk, of course) will stop it moving and flexing (and breaking). Having another person holding the sheet still so it can't move around is big help too. If it slides about you are at risk of cutting into your bench or table edge.

Keep trying and learning, but mostly, be careful not to damage yourself or your home!

Masonite sheets can be replaced much more cheaply and easily than fingers and good furniture.

Spot on with your 1st paragraph @TedBear

May be I can lay on table and as I cut , I can push more out but will watch some youtube clips.

@MitchellMc - I did calculate the cost of me doing including time vs the tradie cost $280

@r23on thank for sharing ur experience and guidance.

https://youtu.be/X5oyljd-fTo

Hi @newfast while you are checking how-to s online, here is a link to a video with some good tips for making clean cuts using your Multi-tool (although the video maker has a pretty super-dooper model, but the uses are the same).

The most useful parts are in the first half.

I hope your door repair project is coming along ok. For less money than you were quoted for the repair, you get some tools that you can keep for future projects as well as the experience of learning skills, also useful for future repairs, and the satisfaction of knowing you fixed it.

Hi @newfast

How’s the project going I haven’t seen any post to the progress of the door repair?

Have you finished it?

@TedBear - thank you for the video

@r23on - just been busy with gearing up for the 11Oct opening hence couldn't contribute/update

I look forward to seeing the end result