So last time I was on here I was begging for assistance with my old school roller shower doors. After some lovely help & feedback from @Jason as to the realities of how much work would be involved, not to mention cost, it was back to the drawing board to come up with Plan B.
I ended up deciding on an even more purely cosmetic budget reno & have just completed this with White Knight Tile Paint, Mondella taps & other fittings, Methven Shower Rail & Caroma 3 taphole basin (just working with the existing plumbing & plumbing set up so not cost involved in that, just a simple tap swap out). We will install Mondella mirrored shaving cabinets across the wall, white hexagon tile splashback, and we had a Polytec bench custom made and just installed this morning onto the existing vanity base (so basin taps and waste not yet connected), which brings me to my current dilemma.
I ordered 2 x 400mm wide Kaboodle cabinet doors in Country Profile (Nougat Truffle) which are a Special Order, as I love the look. I knew the height of them would be almost to the floor but after bringing them home & putting them in place, I just think they’ll look better at least a little shorter (height of the vanity cupboard base is 500mm, Kaboodle doors are 720mm), maybe 550-600mm to height, but as Bunnings can only cut the Modern profile to size, getting them customised wasn’t an option.
Just wondering if anyone has had any experience/luck customising these themselves. Was thinking I could cut them down and then seal them with the White Knight laminate paint, but feel nervous attempting it without hearing some success stories first.
Hi @Appleeye - your bathroom is looking quite smart with the new tap ware etc., Looking at these doors, and the vanity, I’m not sure I understand how you want to modify those doors to fit that vanity.
If you shorten them, you’re going to lose the horizontal panel on the bottom of them, I’m not sure that’s the look you’re after? Perhaps more information is required?
Just to confirm, as I wasn’t very clear, I’m happy to lose the top and bottom strips as I love this look (hopefully I can get the photo to upload), so no need to worry about reattaching parts, just more about trying to finish those cut edges and without it looking nasty. Obviously bottom isn’t such a worry, but more top, and also any effect on the front.
Also I am having handles, which just arrived today 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 and look like this:
If a picture is worth a thousand words what is Youtube worth?
Dave has a lot of content that is helpful.
Chisel would be the go to method given the grooves.
I need to rework my vanity as the top which the installer said was cheap and nasty is still fine but the cupboard has suffered from 39 years of use and has steam/water damage now.
Hi @Appleeye - ok, now I understand the plan As Brad has posted what you want can be achieved. All I would add is:
In a bathroom, ALL edges are important, you’ve got a damp environment, so damp will affect any unsealed edge. I see Brad has given you info about iron-on edges etc. You can water down PVA glue (Glue section at Bunnos) and use it as a sealant - paint it on and let it dry properly. It’s a water based product so won’t interfere with anything you use to re-surface over the top of it. But, it is a MUST that those edges are sealed properly, otherwise your doors are going to expand with the damp.
Hopefully you have enough info to carry on with your project. Go well, and post some pics of the final outcome 👍 cheers Deb
Thanks for coming back and sharing your progress @Appleeye. And fantastic to see you getting more wonderful assistance from the Workshop community.
Looking forward to seeing more updates soon as you progress with the vanity doors.