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How to hang a dryer on tiled laundry wall?

Hello!

I need to hang a dryer in my laundry. It's a tiled wall. It seems the previous dryer (from previous owner) was secured directly to the tiles /gyprock with green plugs.

I'm assuming this isn't what I should do with the new dryer? 🙄

The new hanging brackets need to be 55cm apart. I've located some studs (assume they are timber...I only tested using a magnet) and these sit 70cm apart. From looking through this forum it seems I should fix a timber batten to the studs and then affix the dryer hanging brackets to the batten.

Am I on the right track with this approach? Or would I actually be safe to secure into the tile/gyprock with green wall plugs like the previous install?

My query is what are the materials I would need?

1. What timber and thickness should I use for the batten?

2. What screws and anchors should I use to fix the batten to the studs? I need to drill through tile (not sure about the he best way to do that).

3. What screws/anchors should I use to fix the brackets to the batten?

Additionally if I'm drilling through tile to get to the stud should I drill through the batten first and then into and through the tile? 🤷‍♂️

Attached is a photo of the wall showing the wall plugs from the old install and

the marks where the center of the studs are.

Thanks so much 🙏

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EricL

Hello @ian-m

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks for sharing your question about hanging your dryer on your tiled wall.

I suggest having a quick look at these discussions - How do I fix a dryer bracket to existing timber batten? by @StevenNobol and How to mount dryer with no studs? by @bect73. You are on the right track and anchoring into the studs is much more preferable.

I propose using 90mm x 35mm framing timber. For the screws I suggest using the ZENITH 14G - 8 x 100mm Class 3 Galvanised Bugle Batten Screws. In regards to the bracket itself I recommend the Zenith 12G x 30mm Galvanised Hex Head With Seal Timber Screws. Please remember to remove the rubber seals as they are not necessary for this attachment. It is advisable to drill pilot holes in the timber so that it will be easier for you to drill through the timber and into the stud. If you wish to use a cup head and bolt assembly, you'll need to countersink the head to prevent it from damaging the wall tiles as it is mounted from the other side of the timber support piece as seen in the discussion.

If you need to add additional holes in the tile, I suggest using the Kango 12mm Natural Stone And Tile Drill Bit. Please make sure to use a bottled sprayer on the tile and drill bit while using it. This is to prevent overheating the tile and splitting it in half.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

ian-m

Thanks so much @EricL ! I'll go look for these materials this wknd.

Just one more question regarding the process. Is there a smart way to ensure holes in the batten line up with holes in the tile behind for securing it to the wall, without having to measure up? I've marked the location of the studs, so should I drill a pilot hole through the batten and lightly into the tile first? And then drill my pilot holes with the drill bit you've recommended through the tile to the stud?

Cheers 👍

MitchellMc

That sounds like a great solution, @ian-m, instead of having to take precise measurements. However, I'd pop both your holes in the batten first with your timber drillbit and then with the tile drillbit, use the batten holes as guides to mark the tiles. Remove the batten and drill into the tiles. If you dill into the tiles, even slightly, with the timber drillbit that will likely dull it.

Mitchell

ian-m

Got it. I'll let you know how I go 👍

ian-m

@MitchellMc @EricL it seems the framing timber is out of stock everywhere near me. Is there an alternative I could use? Hoping to get something tmw. My nearest stores would be Alexandria or East gardens (NSW).

Cheers

EricL

Hello @ian-m

If the 90x35 is not available, you can go to the next size up which is 90x45. Just keep in mind to adjust the lengths of the screws you'll be using if needed.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

ian-m

@EricL double checked (with a stronger magnet from Bunnings) 😁 and found out the studs are metal.

Is it still safe to anchor to metal studs? And what type of screw should I use to attach the batten to the metal studs?

Cheers

Ian

JacobZ

Hi @ian-m,

The only way to definitively determine whether it is acceptable is to contact the manufacturer of the steel framing. If you were aware of the type of metal studs that were used, which I understand is unlikely, it would be best to check with the manufacturer.

One thing I do note is that 700mm spacing is not standard in any method of construction, especially where tiles are attached to the wall. It is worthwhile double-checking this with a stud finder. If you find there are more than two available studs, attaching your batten to three or more studs will give you more peace of mind.

It's not ideal but with a timber batten spanning the two studs it should be fine. It would be a much better solution than using green plugs like the previous owner, that is for sure.

You'll need a metal screw that is long enough to go through the timber, tile, fibre cement and into the stud. These 75mm Winged Metal Screws should do the trick.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

bect73

Thanks for the mention Eric 👍🏻

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