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How to remove broken bath spout?

Hi. Wanting to remove the very old spout as it broke on half and disintegrated like pewter. I had about 3cms of it protruding out from base just enough for pipe wrench. But as soon as I started to turn it disintegrated even more to now what you can see. It was so brittle. The pic from Bunnings is the style of the original and also what I bought to replace it.

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Jewelleryrescue

Hi @bennyx13

Fisrt you need to unscrew that large ring on the wall. Usually they are not done up tight so use a pair of decent Multigrips to turn it anticlock wise.

Under the disk cover is a wall spout protruding through the wall usually with a hex end on it so a spanner of the right size can go on it. The new spout will screw onto this once the old one is off.

There is then the old broken spout also with a hex shaped nut on it usually.

So you will need to good fitting spanners on each hex nut. The hex nut at the wall dosnt turn dont try to turn it just use the spanner to hold it steady while you put pressure turn the spout side with other spanner anti clockwise. The holding spanner is used to counter act the force of the spout turning spanner.

When installing the new spout use some white teflon plumbers tape wrapped in a clock wise direction on the spout thread 12 turns as a guide to stop leaks into the wall.

Your new spout just screws on use 5 to 6 wraps of masking tape on the chrome spout (Maybye some extra card board over the jaws ) so you can use the multi grips to tighten the spout gently.

If the tape is loose screwing on use 20 turns of teflon tape. The tape flattens out and seals into the metal thread.

Hope this helps.

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @bennyx13. It's brilliant to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about removing a bath spout.

That's a bit of a pickle! It's going to be very difficult to remove the end flange of the bath spout now that it has snapped off. If the flange section has also deteriorated you might need to start destructively removing it and perhaps cutting into it and then prying away the pieces. If you can cut/break away the sides of the flange, then that might give you some surface area you can lock pliers onto and undo the rest.

This could be a job for a plumber, but I suspect they will struggle with this one, too.

Let me tag @Noyade, @Dave-1 and @Nailbag to see if they have any thoughts.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Morning @bennyx13

Ouch and a few more curses for you, I have struggled with removing cowls from old taps before and I and at least a little more to hold on to give me grip and turn.

Maybe drilling a hole a midway between the center and the edge of the tap base 6mm (thinking about it maybe a little bit closer to the edge then the center to give the best torque when tapping), then you could use a flat head steel shafted screwdriver (We use to call it a suicide screwdriver while working on electrical stuff but cant find teh actual name of it) and tap it counterclockwise (I think but always get it wrong) I was thinking along the lines of a large pinned circlip plier but dont know of any with that solid a nose. I have removed plenty of things this way, takes patience and gently tapping more then clobbering it. Plus a lot of crossing fingers 🙂

Have a search for a "Milwaukee 8mm Slotted Screwdriver" In google land and you will see what I am talking about.

Dave

Noyade

Hi @bennyx13

I think every thread should have at least one photo and a crazy thought.

I have both.

Remove the taps to give yourself plenty of room.

If you're good with an angle grinder - cut two parallel 'half-moon' sections from the base - equal to a good sized shifter.

It'll either shatter or turn. I guess both outcomes would be good?

Cheers - please keep us updated.

bennyx13

Hi @Jewelleryrescue the disc on the plastic wall of the bath is all one piece that did include the spout. Exactly the same as the replacement in the pic that I bought. It’s also quite old and brittle. I can go at it with multi grips. But as it hasn’t even budged a few mm I’m worried I might bend copper inside behind the bath. Or the stem.

EricL

Hello @bennyx13

I propose looking at using a multi tool with a Diablo Carbide Multi-Tool Blade 40mm x 32mm Metal UNIVERSAL. I recommend cutting it from the top and the bottom to split the flange in half. If it is still attached to your wall odds are the plumber used silicone to keep it in place. I recommend using a sharp craft knife to cut the silicone form the wall to detach the spout flange. Due to the toughness of the multi tool blade, please make sure to cut the spout only and not accidentally cut the copper or brass outlet.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working on your repair work.

However, if you feel that it is too involved, I recommend engaging the services of a licensed plumber. They will have the knowledge and experience to remove your spout from the wall.

If you need further assistance, please let us know,

Eric

Noyade

In that case @bennyx13 - might be wise to call a plumber?

If you do - watch closely how he removes it and report back to us. 😁

I think also - repeated attempts with multi-grips may damage the bath wall.

Keep in touch!

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @bennyx13

You are right to worry about applying to much force into the wall plumbing.

If you own a blow torch or a butane flame

I would use a blow torch and heat the middle section of the disc but dont aim the flame into the open hole.

This is a tried and true method of releaseing frozen metal mechanical parts

What happens is metal when heated expands and any sealant should also loose molecular strength. As the external metal part will expand faster than the inner threaded wall spout.

Heat the fitting for 5 mins should do the trick an adittional water spritz of the open hole will cool the inner metal pipe and shrink it to give a looser fit.

Failing that a non blow torch method is to hammer a cold chisel into the metal disk at the top for easy access until it makes a good dent.

Now position the large screw driver into the new dent angled Approx 45 degrees to use a hammer to tap the disk in the anti cloxkwise direction as you look at it.

The hammer will give short sharp force to break what ever seals holding the spout from turning. Hit it hard and use your best judgement as to whether this action is putting internal plumbing at risk. Hammer blows are better than applying continuous torque to a wrench.

Once the seal and old tap spout moving /rotating your in the clear,

Heat will make this process alot easier and less stress on your plumbing.

You have plastic wall wall surfaces so be highly aware not to over do the heat,

Noyade

Any success @bennyx13 ?

" it broke on half and disintegrated like pewter"

Why does cast aluminium (assumption) do this with time?

I had an air-compressor cast aluminium block that held gauges and outlet valves do the same thing after 15 years.

It was like a scene from Harry Potter - one second it was there, then it was gone. Just powder and shrapnel on the ground.

I must have stood there for 5 minutes with my mouth agape.

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