How to fill a large gap between roof and exterior wall?

Hi @Denaz,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community.

I suggest you consider attaching some Zenith 20mm Zinc Plated Angle Brackets to either side of the rafters then attaching DAR Pine of an adequate size to cover the gap. You might need to cut the timber down to get a perfect fit. Any additional gaps can be filled with expanding foam

Alternatively, you could take a strip of Sarking and use Pryda Foil Fix Strips to nail it to the top stud plate and then to the battens under the tiles. That would effectively block off the area.

Is it possible to get some photos showing the gap from the outside? This may provide some more information that our members can use to find a solution.

Jacob

Thanks @JacobZ!

The sarking might be a way to go, I could see that working. Although filling the gap with wood and foam could also work, both really helpful ideas thankyou!

I have some more pictures from different angles as well at the other wall and from the outside

Hi @Denaz,

From the angle of the first photo, it looks like the roof batten and wall line up quite well, this will certainly make it fairly easy to go with the sarking option.

Allow me to tag some helpful members to see if they have any other ideas - @Noyade @Nailbag @Jewelleryrescue

Jacob

Thanks again @JacobZ , really do appreciate the help!

One question, if I was to go with the timber option, do you think it would be smarter for me to use a treated pine given it is open(ish) to the elements and the possibility of termites?

I think that first photo in my second reply shows the dust build up from only a few weeks from putting those shelves in! Would really love to avoid having to clean that mess out every fortnight haha

Hi @Denaz,

Yes, a treated pine would certainly be better in this application. The reason I pointed you towards DAR pine is that they come in a variety of sizes that are more likely to fit the gap. Unfortunately, Bunnings policy doesn't allow for cutting timber to sizes below 300mm as it places the cut shop team member at risk.

The best solution to this problem would be to install fibre cement eave sheeting such as Cemintel 2400 x 450 x 4.5mm Eaves Lining directly to the rafters on the outside and to sheet the ceiling on the inside using Supaceil, but this is quite an involved process and may require the assistance of a trained professional depending on how confident you are.

If you wanted a more weather resistant solution than the DAR pine, that's still quick and easy, I'd advise using marine plywood, H3 treated pine, or LOSP treated pine, however you must note that you would have to cut it to size yourself.

If you need further advice, don't hesitate to get in touch.

Jacob

Thanks again @JacobZ

Definitely going to go with the pine option I think, trying to keep costs down so rather avoid getting the professionals involved haha

I measured it out over the weekend and its about 170mm from the wall to the tiles. So I might get the H3 and fill the rest with spray foam, per your suggestion. Do you think that would work?

Regarding getting it cut instore... is this not available with treated pine products? Never had anything cut instore so not sure of the in and outs of it 🙂

EricL

Hello @Denaz

Please note that the shop saws are not designed to make precision cuts. If you are after exactly 170mm it's best to have the timber cut just for transportation and cutting the timber at home with your saw. In this manner you can account for any variances the gap might have. Using self-expanding foam to fill in the gaps will be perfectly fine.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working on your project.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi again @EricL / @JacobZ ,

I've got everything I need, screws, brackets, timber, etc. However I'm really struggling to use my drill given the limited space and the fact that the horizontal beam at the top of the wall is actually sloped to match the slope of the roof.

Anyways, do you think I could get away with using liquid nails instead of the brackets? Would save a lot of hassle given I have 10 sections to put up but just want to make sure it's suitable and would work? Obviously screws and brackets would be best, but hoping the liquid nails could be a simpler alternative:)

Afternoon @Denaz

Just came across your question, I would probarlly try and persevere with the screws and brackets as you shouldnt have to come back and "maintain" it for a longer period. I presume you are using the drill to predrill the screw holes? and that the timber trusses are hardwood bythe look of it? 🙂 I know how you feel but its def worth it knowing you have done the right thing for a job.

Dave

Hi @Denaz,

I tend to agree with @Dave-1 that you should persevere and use the screws. Liquid Nails is an adhesive, so its strength depends on the surface preparation and the type of materials being bonded. In general, screws provide a more reliable and durable hold, especially in applications where significant weight or stress is involved.

If you are struggling because of the hardness of the timber, you should certainly be predrilling pilot holes, as hardwood, especially older stuff that's had a long time to dry out, is extremely hard and will snap your screws.

If you are struggling because of the angle, you might like to try using a Ryobi 2-Piece Right Angle Drill Adaptor to get into those tighter spaces.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

@Denaz

Just thought of a little trick a Bunnings staff member taught me, screws going into hardwood, even predrilled hardwood can be made easier running the screw shaft over a bar of soap filling at least half the thread with soap. Then using a torqued drill to screw them in. I did this with my hardwood decking into hardwood beams and it worked a treat. I had also made the mistake of using the impact driver as I wasnt thinking that particular day and I kept shearing off the screws, Using the Torqued driver at maybe two notches back from the highest setting to start with (then change if needed) Yes I did call myself some silly names after we worked out why my screws wear snapping 🙂

Dave

Thanks @Dave-1 and @JacobZ , really do appreciate the replies!

I will keep going then! I guess I was also a little concerned in damaging the roof beams and causing a split or something major like that. I assume that predrilling the holes would prevent that? Last thing I need is to have to replace those big beams haha

And @JacobZ I actually just bought a right angle adaptor... although it may have been the cheaper craftright option lol

Thanks again!

Evening @Denaz

Yeah predrilling the holes is a wise move (2 sizes smaller usually) tho this tool is gold! Sutton Tools Ezi Sizer Gauge as it will show you the corrosponding size to the screw you are using. I had one years ago when I was an apprentice and just muddled my way through until a year or so back when I was "yacking" to a Bunnings tool person and they showed me the drill gauge on a string on the wall lol I asked by any chance do you guys sell them and their reply with a smile was "Yep, let me show you" lol Felt like a kid at a birthday party.

Cheaper works btw, I love my ozitio tools and craftright ones, They do the job and keep on working.

Dave

Thanks @Dave-1 , really do appreciate the help!

I will get stuck into it this weekend and hopefully it all turns out!

Just paranoid with the timber beams as the house is very old, so wanting to be as careful as I can and not create any more problems. The pre drilling gives me a bit more confidence that I won't split the beams or break the screws though. I put up some camera not long ago and did not predrill... and that was a difficult process to say the least lol

Afternoon @Denaz

Practice on a part of the beam you cant see so easily maybe? Its what i would do. Once you have the steps in your mind it will flow.

If you are worried about splitting the timber, try and stay at least 10mm from the edge of the timber (if not 15mm) It lessons the chance is all.

and always "soap the screws" 🙂

Dave

Noyade

Evening @Denaz

"Am not expecting it to be 100% sealed, just enough to keep out dust and anything that the wind might push up under eaves."

Same here. Under a carport and a back verandah area. Not a perfect seal - but enough to reduce cold wind (like a night tonight) and support battens under the carport.

All done with treated scrap wood and Selleys Rapid Cure Ultimate Strength glue.

Those small vertical windows with light shining through under the carport job - are hand spaces for my fat hands so I could perfectly position the pieces. 😊

Thought of covering them later - but decided against it. Both areas were done about seven years ago.

Cheers.

Thanks @Dave-1

It's not so much the look that I'm worried about, just damaging something so big and structurally important haha

Will definitely try and keep the holes as close to the centre of the beams as I can.

Will definitely take the advice on soaping the screws... I really wish I'd known that tip when I put the cameras up! 🤣

@Noyade I totally missed your reply sorry! That looks great and good to know about the glue too. I ended up going with the brackets but I tell you, my poor hands copped a beating! Going to be pulling out a couple of splinters tonight 🤣

Thanks again @Dave-1 , @JacobZ and @EricL , I stuck with it and finally got it done! It was a pain in the backside that's for sure, a couple of beams turned out to be a bit warped so getting to timber the right size was tough. The right angle drill adapter really came through though, made things a lot easier.

Anyways, bit of paint and a bit of spray foam for the gaps and it's pretty much done🥳

Evening @Denaz

😀 Love it! Splinters tonight yeah but every time you look at it "oh yeah I did that!" will echo in your mind 😀

One problem solved and solved by you! Its a good night!

So next issue? 🙂 I cant remember what your next step is lol

Dave