How to install hose reel on brick wall?

[Craigo1]

Hello. I want to install a hose reel to the brick wall of my hose. I'm VERY worried that drilling 4 x 10ml holes into the bricks will crack them (4 red dots in picture). I tried drilling a hole into a spare brick and it destroyed it. Is this not possible with this type of brick?

 

 

 

[EricL]

Hello @Craigo1 

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about drilling into your brick wall.

I have exactly the same brick in my former rental home. Can you please post a photo of the drill and drill bit you are using. We just wish to confirm what kind of drill bit you are using. I also suggest having a quick look at this guide - How to drill into brick. Here is a link to our best advice - How do you drill into brick? If you feel that your brick is too sensitive or easily crumbles, I recommend using a smaller drill bit and drilling a pilot hole for the bigger drill bit. In this manner the brick is not put under too much stress.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Craigo1]

Hi Eric. Thanks for the quick reply. Here is a photo of the first drill, using a 7ml masonry bit (pilot hole). Which seems to go okay. Second and third photos are for a bigger hammer drill with a 10ml bit.

 

 

 

[EricL]

Hello @Craigo1 

Your tools look perfectly fine to me. I can only advise to perhaps slow down and not be so aggressive in drilling through the brick. It is the only reason I can think of that would cause the brick to fall apart.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @Craigo1 

From literally drill thousands of holes into masonry in my lifetime I can pretty much guarantee that the wall bricks will not break apart like the single standalone test one. When you drill into standalone bricks the hammer drill bit almost acts like a powered chisel especially if your drill near and edge. 

The positioning of your holes in the wall look spot on. As always when drilling into masonry, start slow so the bit doesn't walk off the mark. When using the conventional hammer drill, you need to maintain forward pressure and run the drill on high-speed. With the SDS hammer drill, you only apply enough pressure  to engage the hammer action with the full speed on the trigger. Applying too much pressure with SDS drills makes them less efficient. The SDS is the best drill to use as it requires less effort and is about 3 times more efficient.

Nailbag

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @Craigo1 

I have drilled a fair few holes, a few have blown out the back (I was trying to drill through a wall, not for a fixing) and it pretty much comes down to what @Nailbag is saying. Take your time, dont over push even though you just want it done. 

Just looked up the install instructions and instead of the 10mm hole and using the fastening bits that come with it, how about using this type of masonary screws Screw Bolts

I have found that they work extremely well, the hole will be smaller as no plug is used. They also have less chance of fracturing a brick I feel.

The length of the screws you have arnt shown, but if you stay with the same length, and go with Ramset 8 x 60mm Galvanised AnkaScrew Masonry Anchor (not sure how long your bolts are so you may need longer ones) but the 8mm was around the size I was thinking. You may need a washer on the ankascrew as well.

Dave

[Noyade]

G'day @Craigo1 

"I'm VERY worried"

I share your concerns. I'm an amateur and it's comical when I look back, but I shattered the inside of a 'hollow' brick whilst trying to help my brother reattach a wind-blown fence.

I wasn't even aware of hollow bricks!

An Albury Bunnings team member set us straight with the anchorage problem with this hole as the Dynabolt was now useless.

If you're truly VERY concerned would it be worth taking measurements - so you strike the full 'meat' of the brick? For the hose fitting it may require a steel plate with tapped holes to accommodate it.

Just a very cautious thought. 

G'day Dave @Dave-1 

The brick I do have is very soft - I personally have had no luck with ankascrews in my bricks.

I would also be careful with old concrete.

This is a concrete fence post from probably the 1940s. No problem drilling the hole - but as the screw was inserted, which wants more space - it absolutely shattered the top. What you now see is a repair job with a long nut and bolt through the post.

Cheers!

[Dave-1]

Good Afternoon @Noyade 

Yeah old concrete is a pain, you dont know the composition, The look of the age really is a telling point for me, as soon as I see concrete like that I shuddder. My old pathway was like that and it crumbled so easily. Things like that post I would drill straight through and then a bolt and compression between the oppisite edges with large washers to distribute the compression, a bolt that expands or a masonart screw as we are describing would put "pushout" force on it 😕 But thats for old style concrete or even concrete posts.

Dave

[Noyade]

I got there in the end Dave @Dave-1 

There was only one concrete post top that 'exploded.'  😊

Thereafter (there were 20) no problems.

From memory I took @Nailbag's advice and went with the 4-cutting edge SDS masonry bit (name?) and 0.5 mm diameter bigger than recommended for the AnkaScrew.

I also put as bitta grease on them prior to insertion.

Cheers!

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @Noyade 

Nice and bet your arms were tired! I havnt seen a masonary bit like that so thats todays "new thing" I will file away fro future use!  

Thank you

Dave