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![PLAN [of attack!]](https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/image/serverpage/image-id/52062iCAEA4E039B6E8E4E/image-size/small?v=v2&px=200 "PXL_20220718_082923518 (3).jpg")
So, my brain went to work and I came up with the following:
[spoiler alert: I refer to my previous project – so if you want to jump over >HERE< and read it now, otherwise, please continue...]
I used the excess wood from the ^house number planter^ which was Pine Dressed Premium Grade 285x19mm. My bottom piece was a spare from a Women's Shed class - again thanks Lana!
And, here is how I did it -
1. MEASUREMENTS & CUTS
After figuring out my measurements (below), I grab a combination square ruler to mark my cutting lines– we want STRAIGHT ACURATE LINES for cutting!!. After a quick demo from my hubby on how to use the handheld circular saw and a safety run-through - I cut my first piece of wood! It’s scary loud so I highly recommend ear plugs AND eye protection cause it's messy! My dad even bought me special goggles to wear over my glasses [Protector Safety Goggle] #spoilt
FINAL CUT Measurements =
- BACK = 1 x [500mm (W) x 285mm (H) - also = the width of my wood]
- NB: My slab of wood was wide enough, so I thought a straight one-piece cut would look smoother and work better with my design concept. Plus, it meant LESS chances of cutting mistakes!
- FRONT = 1 x [500mm (W) x [½-ish the HEIGHT of the BACK = 120mm] (H)]
- SIDES = 2 x {[FRONT HEIGHT – BOTTOM EDGE = 100mm (H)] x [WIDTH of BOTTOM = 145mm (W)]}
^ I found it difficult in comparison to working with fabric to understand my calculations and to visualize how it all would fit together – especially since cutting is a bit more of a process with wood than it is with fabric...
Q: I wonder... does anyone use pattern pieces or some kind of model to see if their calculations will work/fit to make an end result? Or is it purely one of those things I’ll work out as I get better?
2. SAND EDGES SMOOTH
Ok... Now all my pieces are cut – I give them all a quick sand over with a block and a piece of 120 sand paper - focusing mainly on the edges and where the wood was cut.
3. PUT IT TOGETHER: Drill, Glue, Nail/Screw
+ much the same process as planter but wanted to use a few different tools/ techniques
- GLUE SIDES to FRONT with NAILS x 3 on each side– like a little 'table'
Nails in the front!
3x Nails on each side AND 3x on the BOTTOM - for a nice look keep them evenly spaced
- Turn the 'table' upside down, glue remaining SIDE ends and position the BOTTOM piece on TOP - lining it up so the BOTTOM sits on the SIDES and behind the FRONT. Drill holes on the marks and hammer in x2 NAILS on each bottom side at the BACK (to avoid the nails on the front) Then go back to your FRONT markings and attach x3 NAILS in the FRONT to secure it to the BOTTOM
3. Attach the box to the BACKBOARD – Line the box flush to the bottom and sides – glue – clamp – drill – countersink – screw! I was determined to use my new Craftright countersink bits!
4. Attach the feet – "Lana’s trick" to have it off the front at least 10mm so if you happen to not get them flush it looks like it’s part of the design concept – as opposed to a mistake!! Genius! If you try for flush and don’t get it, it can look messy – less room for error! My favourite room!! 
5. Finally drill in some drain holes!
+ SCREWS I ended up using (ALL timber and not the chipboard ones ) 
8G 50mm – feet, and back (except bottom corner)
8G 25mm – Back to bottom (avoid nails)
+ NAILS 2mm flathead
DRILLBITS - this is a GREAT article on How to choose the right drill bit for the Job | Bunnings Workshop community
4. FILL Holes
Pretty easy to find the right colour – better homes and garden guy mixed his – pine = pine! Incredible! I used Earl's Timbermate Wood Filler in PINE - it is non toxic, non shrinking AND won't fall out!!! APPLY timber fill to any gaps and holes (my countersunk holes) with a plastic scraper – I tried without and it’s definitely easier with something otherwise it sticks onto your fingers. .
*TIP* try an old Bunnings’ gift card – who doesn’t have one of them lying around!
5. SAND ALL OVER!!!!
I used a sand block and gave it a quick flick all over – starting with a course 100 then finished with a finer 240 – just want to get it all smooth and even before the next step! Also want the timber fill to be blended and smooth!
Higher the # = fine = less removal - for final finishes (gets rid of little scratches)
Lower the # - coarse = more removal - removes wood fibers more vigorously
6. STAIN
Stained as I did with the planter box:
- Water popped the grain with a spray bottle
- Foam brush with the wood grain for application
- Leave for a minute or two - WET not STICKY
- Wipe off with a rag
- Repeat till colour/depth is where you want it!
- Leave to cure for 24 hours
7. PAINT
I originally wanted to go with a vintage white but knowing my mums history with plants I thought it might be more PRACTICAL to have a chalkboard background. This way she can write the name of whatever she is planting! - shanty to chic chalkboard platter
I used - White Knight Chalkboard Paint in "Chalk board green". I accidentally bought the wrong colour – whoops - didn’t even know that you could get a green chalkboard paint!? But Mum said that it reminded her of a green cake shop (pâtisserie Ladurée) on The Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris, where she had the best macaroon in her life! - So we’ll just go with that shall we?
I'm just lucky I didn’t get CHALK PAINT!! NB: chalkboard paint vs. chalk paint - there is a difference! Mainly, you can't write on a chalk paint like you can with chalkboard paint. Think school chalkboard compared to that vintage dresser of your Grans!
Also wanted to try the "Vaseline trick" by DIYers – Shanty to Chic – Distress Paint with Vaseline! I didn’t have Vaseline, so instead used Paw Paw, and applied it to the areas I wanted the paint to [more easily] sand off.
I mixed a 1:1 ratio of chalkboard paint and Leni by Boyle's waterproof sealant - I wanted as much protection as possible.
The 1 application was enough – especially if I am taking [bits of] it off. Went to town on the paint all over the front but I saved the back just so I could see the outcome of my stain experiment.
TIP : hard to get off brushes (unless you have turps?) so highly recommend using an old-ish brush for application. Just not too old – don't want clumps and stray bristles – we still want a smoooooth finish!
8. SAND BACK PAINT
First I sanded with Ozito 6 hole random orbital detail sander (thanks to my fave father-in-law, Tony!)
- Start in the area with Paw Paw – should come off quite easily
Then with the big orbital sander (special thanks to my fave father, Dad!) sanded WITH the GRAIN over the paint till I was happy with the amount of timber exposed. I want rustic remember – so all those grainy bits of the wood, the stain and the chalkboard paint together make for a very “antique” look – if I say so myself!
9. STAIN... AGAIN! Want to give a lift to the wood after the chalk has been sanded back
Out of Ebony - so went to Bunnings and got more - Mum chose (Sikkens) Dark Oak #9, which being a lighter colour will help to accentuate the depth of the Ebony I'd already applied.
You can see on the back how the colour worked - those little streaks and the corners really POP
- Went over it 2/3ish (maybe 4?) more times - using the same technique as before
* NB: I also went back later to re-sand my sides for more “dishevelment” AND re-stained with the very last few drops left! I like to avoid waste as much as possible!
10. STENCIL
Leaving my stain to ‘digest’ itself into the wood I design my stencil with my Cricut Maker.
Because it’s for my mum I wanted a personal touch – and Kristen’s Herb Garden didn’t look nearly as fancy as it’s French interpretation. Using Google translate to check my spelling and translation (admittedly I was a bit off but my Year 8 French Teacher would be proud!)
Design on Cricut Design Space – cut Stencil Vinyl – use clear contact sheet (the stuff from school book covers) to transfer your design onto the FRONT of the
planter – mark your center on both the front and the stencil so you know where to put it!
Once it’s in place use a plastic type scraper (or grab that old Bunnings’ gift card again!!) and swipe over/press the stencil onto the front. Remove the transfer vinyl at a 45-degree angle – if not stuck down enough give it a few more swipes. Once the transfer vinyl is removed, we only have the stencil remaining! AMAZING RIGHT?!!
My stencil vinyl is running scarce so I attempted to avoid wastage as much as possible. The consequence being that I while I used less material, I had more room for mistakes!!!
But wait... MASKING TAPE TO THE RESCUE!!!! Filling space I DON’T want paint to go (as much as possible) with masking tape and if you those small excess cuts of stencil vinyl
11. PAINT - STENCIL & CHALKBOARD
With a short fat brush dab gold paint gently over the stencil. I also used gold spray paint to really bring the colour home!
Then to make my chalk board, again I pick up my ever-handy masking tape and I make a RECTANGLE so I have a nice, even, CLEAN backdrop! 
- Wanted some kind of protection on the board and I wasn’t sure if applying a top coat would effect the chalkboard paint or not
2nd layer (after letting it COMPLETELY dry) I used just chalkboard paint
Once it's all DRY - peel off the stencil and masking tape to reveal the magic!
12. FINISH
So... now I have my gorgeous stain, glowing stencil AND antique chalk board, I want to make sure it won’t all rot away – remember it will have plants in it!!! I used Integrain EXTERIOR Ultra Clear finish - a non-yellowing, water resistant, polyurethane finish in GLOSS – for that extra je ne se qui! Plus - even though it’s meant to look "old", it should feel young too!
*CURE for 24hrs at least before planting
Q: do I put a finish over the chalkboard paint? I did …. but ONLY in the corners where I did my Paw Paw trick and had sanded it back – whether it’s the ebony stain underneath or the finish, I’m not sure, but I LOVE LOVE LOVE the deep shadow effect!!! EXACTLY what I was going for!!!! [FYI: I found the finish doesn't like the chalk and vice versa so I recommend NOT applying finish onto your chalkboard]
13. CONDITION CHALK
In my research re: to finish or not to finish on chalkboard paint? I found out about “conditioning” chalk from The Spruce crafts - How to Paint Using Chalkboard Paint. Be sure not to scratch the paint with the chalk - like I did - use the SIDE of the chalk NOT the END. The article says "edge of a chalk stick". Aiming for a freshly dusted chalkboard look
Which brings us to...
Mum chose her own "herbes" 
– it is KRISTEN’s "jardin" after all!!!
After fending off the buns, I arrange and plant my herbs...
Once they're all soiled and 'pot' in together 😂 - give them a good drink of water... 👇To see me in action watch the video👇
NB: Condition the chalkboard and write their names AFTER you've watered them - otherwise you're writing will come off 🙊
All's left to do now is give it to Mum!!! Or do I wait for Christmas?
Just kidding!!!! But I did make her wait till I posted this …
💞LOVE YOU MUM💞
Love your work @ehill! Another fantastic project which I trust you are proud of.
It's always fabulous when you can use the same design for multiple projects. There are likely several other uses for something like this. Perhaps you could leave the front face off and create a nifty brush holder?
I can't wait to see your next project as your D.I.Y. skills are progressing exceptionally quickly.
Many thanks for sharing.
Mitchell
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Dimsim. It's sensational to have you join us and fantastic to see you've enjoyed this wonderful project.
Would you be interested in building something like this yourself? I trust @ehill and our helpful community members will be full of advice and encouragement.
We look forward to hearing all about your projects and plans around the house and garden. Please feel free to let us know if you ever need assistance or have something to share.
Mitchell
Oh cleveeeer @MitchellMc !!! I could make a MAKE-UP brush HOLDER!!!!! Soooo many possiblities!!!
May I ask a few questions:
1. How did you make the above graphic - is it with CAD? I'm not the best at drawing squares and my proportions are always out of whack!
2. How would I make those side parts? Would I draw my line and use a jigsaw or a saw? If I don't have those all tools, so how could I adjust a plan to suit the tools that I have?
- *I did a "make a platter" class on Wednesday at the Women's Shed (pictured). I used a saw, a spoke shave, a hand plane, a surform plane and a file to create a twin shape from a piece of wood off an old dresser (Pictured).
But all those tools are owned by the Women's Shed and I don't have much... I've borrowed where I can because a. tools are spensy and b. there's a lot out there so before I commit to a tool I'd like to try it out first!
3. How did you make the groove in the front? The one holding the brush lying vertical?
4. To make the brush holder holes do I use a hole saw bit on my drill? How would I determine which size to use - would I trial a few and stick my brushes in?
and finally... (sorry)
5. Once I have a design plan, like the one you posted above, how do I go about making my calculations and measurements? Especially for the brush holders and getting the diameters of the holes equally apart and wide enough so as not to hit each other?
Thank you again for sharing! GREAT ideas - keep 'em coming!!!!
🤗
Hi @ehill,
I use Tinkercad to make my designs. It was actually built for school children to use so they can create designs for 3D prints. Very easy to learn compared to proper 3D modelling software.
The best way to create the sides would be with a jigsaw. I use a very budget-friendly XU1 jigsaw, which does everything I need. The more premium versions are great to have, but functionally-wise, it does the job. I was actually using it just yesterday whilst building my little warrior princess a shield to defend herself from monsters.
To make a groove like the one holding the brush at the front, you'd use a router and a rounded bit. Alternatively, you could wrap some sandpaper around something cylindrical and sand the groove into it.
I think you'll find even the smallest holesaw bit to be too large for a brush. I'd suggest using standard bits that are slightly thinner than your brushes.
For the plan, you can use the Tinkercad program. However, I'd just build the unit in a size you like and then map out where the brushes are to go. Measure the width, divide it by the number of brushes you want it to hold, and then perhaps make a template to suit.
It's an absolute joy to see you so enthused about D.I.Y., and I hope my response answers some of your questions.
Mitchell
