Start a discussion

The Bunnings Workshop community can help with your home improvement projects.

How to build a vertical garden

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Difficulty: Intermediate

A vertical garden can provide greenery and colour to enliven a drab location and provide plenty of growing space in even very small areas.


Customisable to suit your own garden, this vertical garden can be combined with our raised garden bed made from recycled pallets.


Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Vertical garden with built-in watering system by experienced Bunnings Workshop member @kel. Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us.


Step 1

Start by cutting three lengths of the 90 x 45mm timber at the height you wish you top box to be. Ours were cut 2 meters long to locate the top box just above head height. These will become the vertical posts and they are fixed to the base with three coach screws for each post.


Pre-drill 6mm holes in the posts allowing the coach screws to be positioned at the top, middle and bottom of the garden bed. Ours are at 10cm, 25cm and 40cm above the ground.


Fix the posts to the base with one at each end and one in the middle at 116cm.  Make sure they are evenly spaced and that the screws are fixed through the post and into the frame of the garden planter. 


1.1 Cut your vertical posts to the height desired.jpg  1.2 Measure the height at which youll be placing fixings.jpg  1.3 Pre-drill holes for coachscrews.jpg  1.4 Fix coachscrews into timber and tighten.jpg  1.6 Upright posts in position.jpg  1.7 Render.jpg

Step 2

Clamp a temporary horizontal brace across the three upright posts. Measure the distance between the posts at the top, middle and base. Our garden bed is 233cm long so the distance between the posts is 103cm as the posts are 9cm wide. Adjust the clamps to ensure the posts a perpendicular to each other and are evenly spaced.


2.1 Clamp a temporary horizontal brace.jpg  2.2 Measure distance between posts at bottom.jpg  2.3 Measure distance between posts at middle..jpg  2.4 Measure distance between posts at top.jpg  2.5 Adjust clamps on brace so posts are parallel.jpg  2.6 Render.jpg

Step 3

Take a 90 x 45 piece of timber and cut it to a length that spans across the top of your three posts. Our garden bed is 233cm long. Pre-drill three 3mm holes at either end of this top piece and in the middle (at 116cm for ours). This will be your top horizontal member. Drive treated pine screws through the timber into the top of the three vertical posts.


3.1 Take you top rail pre-drill and fix onto posts.jpg  3.2 Cut your top rail to length.jpg  3.3 Top rail in place and posts parallel.jpg  3.4 Render.jpg

Step 4

Take the measurement between your posts. We cut three pieces of the 150 x 25mm timber at 103cm. This will be the front, back and base of the planter box. Measure the internal height for end pieces. Cut two 125mm pieces from your 150 x 25mm stock. Place the end pieces in position and clamp on both sides to secure.


4.1 Cut three pieces of timber.jpg  4.2 End view of planter.jpg  4.3 Measure internal height of end piece.jpg  4.4 End piece in position.jpg  4.5 Temporarily clamp ends of planter.jpg


Step 5

Pre-drill 3mm holes around the perimeter of the front and back timber boards into the base and sides. You’ll need five holes into the base and three holes into each the sides. Countersink those holes. Drive treated pine screws to secure the boards in place. This process will be repeated on the back and front. In this vertical planter we are using six boxes and this process will be repeated for all six of them.


5.1 Pre-drill fixing holes through front and back.jpg  5.2 Countersink holes for flush fitment.jpg  5.3 Fixings in place.jpg

Step 6

Measure the width of the boxes and mark a centre line. The boxes will be 200mm wide so add a mark at 100mm. On this centre line we will take a scrap piece of 90 x 45mm timber and place it diagonally. Mark both sides of the timber. Step the timber back lining it up with one of the diagonal lines. Again, mark both sides of the timber. This gives us a reference to the angle at which the planter box will sit. Pre-drill three 3mm holes within the marked area.


6.1 Measure to find center of planter and mark.jpg  6.2 Take an offcut and diagonally position it on central line.jpg  6.3 Diagonal marked.jpg  6.4 Stepped back.jpg  6.5 Pre-drilled holes for mounting.jpg

Step 7

Install box into position between the vertical posts. Check the angle by matching up the marked lines on the side of the box with the vertical posts. Our boxes are space 10cm apart as this gives the plants enough room to grow without hitting the box above. Drive three treated pine screws from inside the box into each post. A second set of hands can be helpful here.


7.1 Lines matched up.jpg  7.2 In postion.jpg  7.3 Fixing all boxes into place.jpg  7.4 Render.jpg

Step 8

Drill several evenly spaced 8mm drainage holes in the bottom of each box. Cut pieces of the builder film larger than what is needed to line the interior of the boxes. Use a staple gun the fix the plastic in place. Trim the plastic back so it is neat and flush with the timber. Cut some holes in the builder film allowing water to drain through it.


8.1 Drill holes in base of planter for drainage.jpg  8.2 Cut plastic to fit.jpg  8.3 Staple around perimeter.jpg  8.4 Stapled in place.jpg  8.5 Trim excess to size..jpg

Step 9

Cut two lengths of 90 x 45mm timber to act as a central and lower support cross-members. Our cross-members are 233cm long. These timbers should be the same length as your top horizontal piece. Fix them to the vertical posts with treated pine screws. One will be at the mid-position which worked out to be 135cm high and the other just above the base which was 50cm high.


9.1 Mid brace.jpg  9.2 Lower brace.jpg

Step 10

Cut your lattice panels height to fit between the mid and lower brace and then cut the panels width to fit between the two upright posts. In our case this was 90cm high and 103cm wide. Fix the lattice to the middle and lower cross-member with treated pine screws. Cut to length your trim timber forming a basic frame around the lattice. These were two pieces 103cm long for the top and bottom and another two at 82cm long for the sides. Fix the frame in position with treated pine screws.


Congratulations. You have now completed your vertical garden planter project.


10.1 Lattice in place.jpg  10.2 Lattice surround tacked in.jpg  10.3 Lattice in position.jpg  10.4 Complete.jpg  10.5 Render.jpg  10.6 Finished and planted up.jpg


  • 200 treated pine screws sized 8-10 x 75mm  
  • Five pieces of 4.8m treated pine measuring 150 x 25mm  
  • Six pieces of 2.4m treated pine measuring 90 x 45mm  
  • Two pieces of 2.4 DAR treated pine measuring 40 x 18mm  
  • Nine galvanised coach screws M8 x 100mm  
  • One roll of builder’s plastic 2 x 10m  
  • One piece of lattice measuring 1800 x 900mm  


  • Drill driver 
  • 6mm drill bit 
  • 3mm drill bit 
  • Countersink bit 
  • 8mm spanner or adjustable spanner 
  • Circular saw 
  • Tape measure 
  • Clamps 
  • Staple gun 


1.1 Cut your vertical posts to the height desired.jpg

1.2 Measure the height at which youll be placing fixings.jpg

1.3 Pre-drill holes for coachscrews.jpg

1.4 Fix coachscrews into timber and tighten.jpg

1.6 Upright posts in position.jpg

1.7 Render.jpg

2.1 Clamp a temporary horizontal brace.jpg

2.2 Measure distance between posts at bottom.jpg

2.3 Measure distance between posts at middle..jpg

2.4 Measure distance between posts at top.jpg

2.5 Adjust clamps on brace so posts are parallel.jpg

2.6 Render.jpg

3.1 Take you top rail pre-drill and fix onto posts.jpg

3.2 Cut your top rail to length.jpg

3.3 Top rail in place and posts parallel.jpg

3.4 Render.jpg

4.1 Cut three pieces of timber.jpg

4.2 End view of planter.jpg

4.3 Measure internal height of end piece.jpg

4.4 End piece in position.jpg

4.5 Temporarily clamp ends of planter.jpg

5.1 Pre-drill fixing holes through front and back.jpg

5.2 Countersink holes for flush fitment.jpg

5.3 Fixings in place.jpg

6.1 Measure to find center of planter and mark.jpg

6.2 Take an offcut and diagonally position it on central line.jpg

6.3 Diagonal marked.jpg

6.4 Stepped back.jpg

6.5 Pre-drilled holes for mounting.jpg

7.1 Lines matched up.jpg

7.2 In postion.jpg

7.3 Fixing all boxes into place.jpg

7.4 Render.jpg

8.1 Drill holes in base of planter for drainage.jpg

8.2 Cut plastic to fit.jpg

8.3 Staple around perimeter.jpg

8.4 Stapled in place.jpg

8.5 Trim excess to size..jpg

9.1 Mid brace.jpg

9.2 Lower brace.jpg

10.1 Lattice in place.jpg

10.2 Lattice surround tacked in.jpg

10.3 Lattice in position.jpg

10.4 Complete.jpg

10.5 Render.jpg

10.6 Finished and planted up.jpg

19 Replies
Junior Contributor

That’s really cute love that 

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @Tinyfeather60,


It's really functional too. I have limited space in my backyard to have planters on the ground so this vertical one has given me a lot more room to grow in.


I can't wait to see your vertical pallet garden completed. Please post some images when it is done as our members always love a good pallet project.




New Contributor

This is a great idea!!

Living in a rental property, I am limited to how big a far I let my creativity go but this would be a really great option for me.


Thank you so much for sharing!! And who knows hopefully soon you will see pics of my version 😁😀

Community Manager
Community Manager

Fantastic, glad to see you have been inspired @SkyReaper.


Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're so pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading about all your projects and plans for around the house and garden, especially your new vertical garden.


We're sure you will get plenty of helpful information, advice and inspiration from our amazing community members. Please post anytime you need a hand or have something to share. 




Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member



I'm in a rental property too and I have to say the property manager was very impressed with my handy work last inspection. I am a firm believer that just because someone rents it doesn't mean that they can't enjoy the property to its fullest.




New Contributor

Yes me also! 

I have always liked making the property really shine.

Its great for landlords to see that you are maintaining and caring for their property.

And really who wants to live somewhere that you can't enjoy and make some what your own 😁😃

Super Contributor

@MitchellMc  Wish I'd seen something like this last year.  I could have made one or two for my side fence area.  Just awesome, and compact, looks like it's nice and strong to support the soil in the upper pots.  Hard when you have lots of ideas and such limited space to do things in.


Thank you for sharing Mitchell


This Old~gal

Valued Contributor

"I am a firm believer that just because someone rents it doesn't mean that they can't enjoy the property to its fullest."


Totally agree Mitchell. It looks really good. 👍

My middle son moved out a few months ago into a small flat that has a brick wall courtyard.

I recently saw this flower pot arrangement in a cafe and I'm gonna make it with large U shaped steel brackets so it hangs on his courtyard wall. No drilling required so he'll be able to lift it off the wall when/if he moves elsewhere. It's basically two layers of concrete mesh welded at a precise distance apart to support flower pots. I'll post photos when completed.



Super Contributor

Looks great! :smile:   What are you growing in there Mitchell?

PS My last rental we kept the lawns beaut and did random repairs and improvements as well - we were there nearly a decade (before buying) and not once was our rent cost increased - and after a while the landlord actually told us to tell the real estate to bugger off when they turned up for quarterly inspections if we wanted to lol - as he knew we were taking care of his house as if it was our own.

I think the things we fixed and improved there - were well and truly paid for by the complete lack of rent increases over the years with the owner so happy, and when we actually bought a house - because we had done such a good job as renters - he allowed us to break 4 months of contract that we had left as renters without any penalty (really we should of paid that 4 months of rent out to finish the contract)

Can definatly pay off I reckon :smile: and adding your own touches also helps make a house a home

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @Noyade,


I've seen that design around before and absolutely love it. A bit of pre-planning about how to construct these items and how you'll fix them to structures without damaging the property is all that is needed. It's also worth considering what you can bring with you to the next property.


Please keep us updated on your build as I trust it will thrill our members to see your results.




Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @Prawns,


I'm currently growing basil, oregano, thyme, tomatoes, carrots, lettuce, eggplant, zucchini and onions. I am happy with the amount of produce from such a small footprint.


I work on the same policy that the fewer issues you raise and the more you fix yourself, the less your rent gets increased. That's worked out for me pretty well so far over the 18 or so years of renting.




Valued Contributor

G'day Mitchell!


Eventually got there, little fiddly - but it was a downsized version with larger pots. The brackets are 5mm steel plate bent with a heating torch and welded onto a smaller steel plate connected to the frame. Shouldn't come down when fully loaded.

It'll eventually be fitted to a brick courtyard wall.


Thanks for the mini-garden inspiration. 🙂






Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

That looks amazing, @Noyade!


I trust your son will be thrilled with the results. Any idea what he is going to plant in there?


Many thanks for sharing.




Valued Contributor

"Any idea what he is going to plant in there?"


The plan is succulents. Would they be OK next to on a hot brick wall (summer)?

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member



It might be an idea to plant them more towards the front of the pot to keep them as far away from the wall as possible. You'd likely do this anyway for ease of viewing. Some succulents like Cacti, Aloes, and Agave do well in heat and would be more suited to this application.




Valued Contributor

Finally got there. 😏

And thanks for the advice Mitchell! 👍



Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @Noyade


What an impressive piece of welding work. I was wondering how you were going to hang it when you mentioned that no drilling was required. Now I'm truly impressed, I would never have imagined such a clever way of hanging the wire mesh planter. Did you paint it or did you just leave it bare metal? Being able to weld is such a handy skill, there are so many more avenues open to you when you can work with both timber and steel.  


Thank you for sharing your amazing vertical planter.




Valued Contributor

Hi Eric.


"Did you paint it or did you just leave it bare metal?"


I spray painted it with a black Metalshield product. I coulda left it raw - then it would eventually become rust-ic.  :smile:

Valued Contributor

Smaller one under a carport. Dunno if the succulents will survive - little sun?

The backing is made from old fence palings on an old table frame. Feet adjusters on the base allow leveling.

A square pot hides most of the base metalwork.

And on the back - a nice print of a Hawker Fury. 👍






Why join the Bunnings Workshop community?

Workshop is a friendly place to learn, get ideas and find inspiration for your home improvement projects