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How to build a Kaboodle cabinet around a hot water tank?

LeopoldProjects

Hello,

I am building a kaboodle kitchenette.

The corner cabinet is to have a hot water tank inside it.

The drip pan/tray is the same depth as the cabinet. Meaning I can't install a kickboard.

What are my options here?

I didn't even think of this been an issue.

I really would like to have the same kickboard look across the whole kitchenette.

Someone said I could pack out the back of the kitchenette to bring the cabinet forward.

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Jason

Looks like a terrific project @LeopoldProjects.

Let me tag some members to kick off the discussion: @Nailbag, @Adam_W and @TedBear.

Thanks,

Jason

Nailbag

Hi @LeopoldProjects could you please send through another photo further back showing the entire front of the hot water service and drip tray..

Nailbag

TedBear

Hi @LeopoldProjects ,

If you can get the kitchen top made a bit deeper than the cabinets, then I'd go for the option of fitting the cabinets a bit out from the wall (as you have had suggested elsewhere). We did that in our kitchen because we wanted a deeper working surface than standard tops (that match standard cabinet depth) offered.

LeopoldProjects

There you go. @Nailbag

LeopoldProjects

Hi @TedBear How did you go about fitting the cabinets out from the wall?
I was thinking about using 2 x 16mm melamine panels together against the the wall first then attach cabinet to that.

There is a power point I will need to cut a hole for to access. And also holesaw holes for the pipes to sink. So if I do this idea, I would have to cut through 3 panels of melamine (kaboodle back panel plus 2 x melamine panels used to bring cabinet forward.

What are your thoughts on that?

There may be a better way which I'd be keen to hear about.

Dave-1

Good Morning @LeopoldProjects

From the first photo I had presumed the hot water tank and cupboards were allready insitu.

I was thinking about reducing the size of the tray for the hot water tank and espicially now that it is on its own. (Have a new one made or modify the one that is there)

Same width just 5omm shorter and then your kickboard can be put in.

Dave

LeopoldProjects

Yes I would love to shorten the tray. Would make life so much easier. Would have to modify the one there but I have no idea on how to do that.

Dave-1

Afternoon @LeopoldProjects

There are two ways you could do it. Yourself or a metal fabricator.

Yourself-

Grab a piece of paper and while sitting in front of the tray (even before removing it) figure out how the corners would fold to creat the box. Fold your paper and cut the tabs then see if your idea works. Once happy then you have the steps to physically do it

Empty the tank then remove the tank from the tray. (mainly because doing it with the tank on top would be problematic.)

Then using a thin wheeled grinder cut the tabs you have figured from your cut paper tray.

First step - Using two pieces of timber with the edge of the tray that needs to be folded up and some clamps along the length of the timber.

Second step - Plus another piece of timber clambed down over the aluminuim container on the bench so it wont shift.

Third step - Using the clamps and the two pieces of timber for the edge of the new box, fold them up to form a new right angle

Fourth step - Fold the "tabs" at right angles so they wrap around the side.

Fifth step - Pop rivit the tab to the old side and silastic.

Metal Fabricator

Take a photo of the tray plus the size you want the box to be down to your local welder/metal manufacturer/engineering workshop located in the nearest light industrial area (the ones near me even have bits of metal fabrication out front so you know what they do 🙂 )

Dave

LeopoldProjects

I was hoping there would be a way to shorten tray without removing tank. As it is all plumbed in. I don't plan to move it.
Hence why I was going down the route of bringing the cabinets forward to allow a kickboard in front of the drip tray.

Dave-1

Afternoon @LeopoldProjects

You could still do the cuts tho beware of sparks and then the folds (may be harder to do)

Or depending on the quality of what you want. Cut the 50mm off with a grinder (may be hard sitting on the floor) and install a new piece if aluminuim across the fron and silastic it both sides to make waterproof. (I wouldnt go to small as its meant to catch drips)

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @LeopoldProjects

The tray will be a generic size suitable for various diameter tanks. If you were to remove it and had it refolded in the font to be an almost snug fit will that give you the depth for your kick-panel? If so, thats the route I would take as @Dave-1 also suggested.

And unless I am misunderstanding your alternative idea, I wouldn't consider packing the carcass with a triple up of the rear panel as this will affect standard bench depth by around 40mm..

Nailbag

TedBear

Hi @LeopoldProjects , there is no need to fit whole panels behind the cabinets. Ours just have strips of vertical timber in a few places to keep them sitting at the right distance out from the wall. This has made it easier to run a gas pipe (in our case) and a power point for the electric oven (that cabinet space has no back at all). The cabinets don't have any forward/backward stresses and the top, being attached to a strip along the wall as well as the cabinet tops, keep the cabinets in place very well. You won't then have to make a deep hole to get to the power point on the wall... Just a hole through the one layer that is the cabinet back.

MitchellMc

Hi @LeopoldProjects,

My vote would be as @Dave-1 mentioned, to place some incisions in the corners, fold the front in and then pop-rivet the corners back together and apply sealant. If you're not confident in doing so, I recommend enlisting the services of a handy person.

Mitchell

LeopoldProjects

Thanks for the advice.

I guess that's were I encounter another issue.

If I shorten the tray I will then need to add or replace the flooring to cover the concrete.

These panels are the first laid laminate flooring. Do you know if it's possible to remove and change these panels?

Dave-1

Afternoon @LeopoldProjects

Yeah I thought that could be an issue. Was hoping not 😕

If you can lay your hands on the same type of floating floorboards then it is doable. Depends on how they have been installed (glued down or just clipped in)

Or you could go down the route of attaching this Metal Mate 40 x 12 x 1.6mm 1m Silver Aluminium Unequal Angle - 1m to the kickboard, I would file the corner and square edge to take the sharpness away tho. Short side on the kickboard, longside to cover the gap.

Dave

LeopoldProjects

Thanks for the reply.

Yes I have some spare panels left over. They are clipped in.

Dave-1

@LeopoldProjects

Then you should be able to replace the short ones 🙂 Cheering, more work but achievable if you gothe route of reducing the tray.

Dave

TedBear

Hi @LeopoldProjects , as I understood the situation, the reason for folding back the tray edge is to allow the kickboard to extend over into that area. Wouldn't the gap in the flooring therefore be covered by the kickboard?

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