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Hi All!
I have an old round table top (90cm diameter and 2cm thick) and re-use it to build a round coffee table (~40cm height). I believe the table is hardwood but not sure which type. I am planning to build something similar to the image below. Not sure what angle I'll use for the vertical legs (probably between 10 - 22.5). I will be using dressed pine (89 x 19mm) so the thickness of the leg matches the table top, and also to make sure the legs don't look too wide. I will also coat with boiled linseed oil
My question, given the thickness of the wood is only 2cm, what is the best way to join the table top to the legs? I was thinking of using pocket holes but due to angled cuts I'm not sure if it's a good idea.I was also considering metal plates (the ones that look like a number 8 but can't seem to find it on Bunnings and not sure if it's strong enough). I am open to suggestions! I am also open to new designs
Thank you!
Hello @zool3
Thank you for sharing your query about needing help with up-cycling a round tabletop.
Your proposed table design has a cross leg brace at the bottom, I recommend building a cross leg brace support for the top as well. This will make the leg structure strong and prevent it from twisting and shearing. I suggest using regular straight joins on an angle rather than mitre joints. This will allow you to use your Pocket Hole Jig on the entire assembly.
Attaching the top can be accomplished by using Selleys 100g Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive. Another option is to use Prestige 29mm x 17mm Figure 8 Table Connectors. You would have to put a few on each leg to get a really good hold. I recommend a combination of both to make sure the tabletop is held in place. It sounds like a fantastic upcycle project, any updates you can provide would be most appreciated.
Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to restore wooden furniture
Let me tag our experienced members @woodenwookie and @Brad for their recommendations.
If you need more advice or information, please let us know.
Eric
Thanks for your reply @EricL
I think I'll take up your idea on making straight legs (right angle) to make the build simpler and add it some cross braces as well.
Given the table top is 2cm, I'll probably have to disregard the Figure 8 table connectors since it'll go straight through the table. I do have some small pocket hole screws so I may also consider this option.
I have wood glue (Tarzan and Gorilla), would they work just as well as liquid nails?
Figure 8
https://www.bunnings.com.au/prestige-29mm-x-17mm-figure-8-table-connectors_p4020082
Would be my choice if your not using rails.
Rails would let you use Z clips but you also need to cut a groove in the rail.
I would avoid pocket holes given the wood can move with weather changes and fixed screws don't allow for it.
Hello @zool3
It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Brad. I'm sorry but the glues you've mentioned are not strong enough to hold the table to the legs. I suggest using Zenith 8G x 15mm Gold Passivated Button Head Timber Stitching Screws - 40 Pack with the Figure 8 table connectors. Since your top is 20mm thick using a 15mm screw should be safe to use. Please keep us updated.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thanks for the tip and help tonight @EricL
I would have them facing in.
Oversize forstner bit to drill into the end of the legs so the clips will sit flush and give some room for movement.
2 per leg may be over engineering things but I can't see it doing any harm.
I completed the table a few weeks ago. Thanks for all your help! It I really like the final project. I can finally eat in front of the tv! I can't wait to go to Bunnings on the weekend to start my next living room furniture build to match this coffee table
Fantastic job @zool3. You must be so proud of what you've been able to make. Did you end up finishing with linseed oil as planned?
What are you building next for the living room? We'd love to follow along with the project.
Stevie
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