How to install timber slat feature wall and shelf in guest room?

Afternoon @Yangaz

Love the acoustic panels and sounds like it will be a nice area when you are finished.

A couple of questions to claify.

The acoustic panels wont be below the shelf?.

Do you want to have invisible supports for the narrow shelf or are brackets acceptable?

Did you know that the acoustic panels also come in square aizes? I saw them this weekend and they could be used either side of the bed if you wanted longer paneling on the wall. I actually cant find them on the Bunnings site 😲 lol Tho was checking them out on the weekend 🙂 Pays to wander through the Bunnings aisles!

For the narrow shelf idea, I am thinking of something with an edge to it. that way you can lean the pictures backwards or paintings. Much like a book display on a wall in a libary.

140 x 19mm 2.4m DAR Pine Premium for the base (am after the width of timber, thicker would be better lookwise i think)

42 x 19mm 1.8m DAR Pine Premium - 1.8m for the "kickboard" at the front. Fastened to the edge of the shelf so you will see no joins.

Depending on brackets shelf brackets shows you a range of them. If you go the route of hidden brackets then the design I have suggested may need to be changed is all.

Dave

Thanks @Dave-1 and @EricL

I am now considering scrapping the shelf idea and keeping the feature wall minimalistic (I think the shelf will attract clutter instead). Is it possible to have the prem-panels cut in half i.e. 2700mm/2 = 1350mm at the Bunnings store on a super fine saw? refer to the pictures below.

@Dave-1 The GPO is actually a light switch, so yes we can relocate it higher so it is out of the timber slat wall area. I assume cutting a small jig-saw piece to fit the light switch in the timber slats will be difficult. Also any recommendations on the LED strip light above the feature wall?

Afternoon @Yangaz

🙂 Think it was @EricL with the suggestion about the GPO. I dont think it would be hard to cut out a section tho just getting it accurate is the worry (yeah Ive tried doing my bookcase once before.... tried is the word lol

The LED Lighting, depending on the colour of the acoustic panels you could run the wire (a wire) coloured black down next to the timber slat to the floor.

Instead of no shelf how about an old school picture rail. That way you can hang anything easily as well as have a set up to professionaly hang the artwork? Picture Rail & Moulding Hooks

Dave

Thanks @Dave-1 yes great idea to have picture rail hooks installed.

Would Bunnings stores cut the Prem-panels in half? also any recommendations on the LED lights? good call out about the black wires to run down the timber flats.

Thanks again.

Afternoon @Yangaz

Ive modified some Ikea LED strips for my garage project (Low voltage plus I am a sparky) However Jaycar has a large range as well.

Ive used App controlled powerboards from Bunnings as well.

I am unsure about teh acoustic panels being cut by Bunnings as the timber strips are mounted on a material type back plane. If they do it wont be with a super fine saw blade. Bunnings do have trailers and also utes you can hire easily (I have been keeping an eye on the utes 🙂 ) The ute is less then a deklivery fee but only for an hr or two I think.

One reason I suggested the smaller square size of the acoustic panels was then you could use multiple of them, they are the same size width as the existing long panels that way you can make the upside down U that sits behind the bed (You dont have to have them to the floor if that makes sense)

Dave

Thanks @Dave-1

I can't see to find the square ones on the Bunnings website? do you have the link? if they are 300mm x 300mm that could work.

Sorry not sure what you mean bu the upside-down U?

JoeAzza

Hi @Yangaz , if you decide to go with a shelf, here is what I have done in my hallway for pictures, the pictures have been up for more than two years, so far no problem of them sliding off, however, a bit of blu tac at the base of the picture frame will keep it in place

Evening @Yangaz

I couldnt find the squares online tho I definently saw them in store @EricL maybe be able to help you out with the webpage otherwise Id take a wander in to your local Bunnings.

The upside down U, picture this.

Bedside table floor up then across the rear of your bed then down to the bedside table floor, A Big Upside down U 🙂 Its effectivly a big bedhead.

Dave

EVening @JoeAzza

Love those shelves 🙂 They look sturdy as!

Dave

Hi @Yangaz I'm well behind on this project sorry. I've used this paneling numerous times now and love the ease of use and the look. My last project was to install it in an alfresco ceiling. Wasn't easy but worth the effort for a mate of mines place.

It's not a great product to trim to length as the backing is actually thick foam material and the panels are MDF with an ultra thin timber look vinyl. Best way to cut it is face down using a fine toothed (40tct+) circular saw blade. Then use the cut edge on the bottom and the machine edge being the cleanest on top.

To get that effect of the LED strip light, use a sharp hobby knife and cut a channel out from the back (see profile photo below.) This will conceal the light from the front but will reflect the glow vertically as per your sample photo.

For the light itself, I highly recommend the Tapo/TP Link products. The app work very well as do all their products. I have lots of strip lights and smart plugs in my own home and just installed one in a stone wall pelmet. The strip light can be adjusted by the app to change colours and brightness and schedule on/off times. Also Google and Alexa compatible.

To cut the opening for the GPO, remove the cover plate and use it as a cut out template. Again you will need to cut the opening from the back side to avoid the panel strips splitting open which is easy to do. Use a jigsaw to make the cuts.

Then use liquid nails to fix the panels to the wall.

Nailbag

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EricL

Hello @Yangaz

I'm sorry but the shop saws are too rough for the Prempanel and will not be able to cut it. You'll need a circular saw with a fine-tooth blade to effectively cut the the panel. As for the LED lights there are dozens to choose from at the store, it all depends on the length and function you want in the lights. For example, the Mirabella Genio 3m Wi-Fi LED Strip Light is easy to install and works with WiFi and allows you to turn it off on your phone app.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi @Nailbag, thanks for the detailed info. I really like how you did the profile cut in the foam to place the LED strip to reflect up the wall, might not even need an LED diffuser with it concealed like this! nice job.

Good tip about cutting it face down, I was watching videos of circular saws being used for melamine shelves and how it was chipping away! so a good tip. Would you remove the skirting at the bottom and then attach the paneling? I've read somewhere that by doing this it gives it a much more cleaner look?

Thanks again!

Yes spot on mate definitely remove the skirt @Yangaz. and using a fully programable strip light means you don't have to use a diffuser. Ive installed these stacks of times and just come up with some form of shield to prevent the strip being visually seen at any angle.

Make sure the panel is dead flat and apply a straight edge to stop it lifting just back from your cut line and clear of the saw base. If you apply blue painters tape to the cut line on the good side, that will also help splintering.

Send through photos of the finished product with the light on 👍

Nailbag

Thanks @Nailbag

You seem like a detail person. How would you cut the bottom skirt to fit in the feature timber panel? See the diagram below showing a detail of the bottom skirt (top-down view). Given the timber slats is 21mm.

Hi @Yangaz what's the floor covering in that room, carpet or solid (timber, tile etc)?

Nailbag

Hi @Nailbag

The flooring is vinyl cladding.

Hi @Yangaz

There are a couple of articles worth a read on how to remove skirting. There is this one from a member post. And this one from Bunnings both worth watching.

The issue with prying the skiting from between the plasterboard wall and arc is that you will crush the plasterboard and inevitably go through it in places. This is not an issue when you're covering the wall and don't have to repair the wall.

When there is a solid floor I like to pry the skirting up so no wall damage the than scratches. Just protect the floor as you go. I still run a blade along the top painted edge and the corner mitre joins. The issue with prying outwards the skirting is the ends are within the mitre so you will need to cut them, which you need to do anyway as per below.

If you have a multitool you can use the blade to cut the mitre. If you don't have a multitool in your powertool collection and do a lot of DIY, then do yourself a favour and invest in one. I use mine all the time! The Multitool will also allow you to easily cut the rebates at the ends of the left and right skirting to accomodate the panel.

Nailbag

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Morning @Yangaz

To add to ways I have removed skirting board without breaking it and doing too bad a job on the wall 😲

- I used a wide plaster spatula and tapped it down between wall and skirt, then I could get a larger wide flatblade screwdriver between them so I didnt leaver into a small spot but the force was spread out over the plaster. I started in the middle of the wall and worked my way to the corners much like a foot one side of the halfway mark then the other then back to the first side. The piece could be pulled out like a bannana if I took it slowly.

Since you are putting the soundproofing down to the floor you could cut off the very ends of the skirt or leave them as they will be covered (with a little trim) in case you one day want to put the skirt back.

Dave

Thanks @Dave-1 and @Nailbag

Now considering just leaving the skirting on lol appreciate the wisdom and advice though.

Cut the black material trim to the same height as the skirting. Paint the skirting black and it will have the same result @Yangaz

Nailbag

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@Nailbag innovative as always mate. On the website, it says the panel is 21mm thick. My skirting is about 18-19mm thick. Do you recall how much depth the black foam took up?