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How to seal Eucalyptus wood?

Hi!

I have an outdoor, 2 seater daybed that is made of eucalyptus wood and finished with a natural oil seal (presumably linseed).

It is brand new. I want to seal it with a Polyurethane based finish as this particular piece, whilst quite nice to look at, is very susceptible to water damage.

What type of PU sealant (or otherwise) should I use. I was erring towards ‘Cabot’s Cabothane’ but couldn’t find any information about its water permeability.

I had also been recommended Cabot’s Clear Satin Exterior Finish but it says it is not suitable for outdoor furniture.

Thanks!

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Comments

BradN

Hi @AnthonyBonello, and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's great to have you here.

One of our resident D.I.Y. experts, @EricL, will be back on the site later today, and I'm sure he'll be able to give you good advice.

In the meantime, let me tag experienced community members @TedBear and @JoeAzza to see whether they have any suggestions.

Are you able to share a photo of your daybed? I'm sure we'd all be interested to see it.

Brad

AnthonyBonello

Hey! Thanks looking forward to hearing from them!

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @AnthonyBonello I would stay away from varnish type products out door s in time they can peel and need re sanding and re coating.

Where as sikkens soaks into wood repeling water and when it needs re doing no peeling just reapply every 10 years or at need and it just soaks in reestablishing protection in my experiance.

Comes in clear if you wish and or a stain colours too.

Sikkens Cetol Deck 1L Natural Timber Finish

Information source bunnings web site

I/N: 1580495

$57.20

Features

Microporous allowing the timber to breathe while repelling unwanted moisture
Satin finish
UV and weather resistant
Easy application
Natural look. Wood grains remains visible after application

A highly water repellent, weather resistant, high build transparent coating for exterior timber decks and handrails.

For a natural look and extra hard-wearing premium UV protection and durability, 2 coats of Cetol Deck.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/23849#Comment_23849

Hello @AnthonyBonello

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Jewelleryrescue. Just to add to the suggestions already made, I recommend having a look at a water-based polyurethane sealer. If the current sealer on your outdoor furniture has started to wear thin, it's time for a new coat. Generally, you'll need to sand down the chair and table making sure to remove the old sealer that was applied to the furniture's surface. All the sawdust will have to be removed with a brush and clean rag. Once the surface is clean you can begin repainting the furniture. I suggest using Cabot's 1L Gloss Water Based Cabothane Clear Polyurethane Timber Varnish. Being a water-based product it will not turn yellow like oil-based sealers.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to restore wooden furniture

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

AnthonyBonello

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/74578#Comment_74578

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond!

The seat is brand new but as I understand it the oil finish it comes with is prone to bleeding and not resisting water well (moulds easily etc). A matter of aesthetics over functionality.

In this case, could I use something like the Sikkens Citol to coat the furniture and prevent further damage.

Is there any coating I can use that doesn’t require me to sand back the wood?

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/100885#Comment_100885

@AnthonyBonello as you say furnature is new and is bleeding oil thats the problem right there.

I say one option is let it furnature be outside on some thing that will protect the floor from bleeding oil and let nature wash that oil off let the timber weather for a 6 month or so or I wonder if soapy water like dish suds may help break down those oils. Those oils are a cheap and nasty timber finish just painted on to sell them and we get stuck with fixing the furnature for the longer term.

Ideally that oil needs to go as @EricL Polyurethane Timber Varnish. wont stick to oily surface thats why he recommends sanding and is right to do so for his recommended products and I would use his products in doors with out hesitation.

Sikkens Citol acts like a oil in it own way as it soaks into the wood fiber to protect it. it isnt a coating as such but if another oil is already applied it wont really soak in and do its job. See Attached Sikkens notes.

They also meantioned wood cleaners Bunning may have to remove oils etc @EricL and other team members might be able to advise on such products i havnt used them to date.

IMG_4076[1].JPG

PHOTO see above timber seat done sikkens 15+ year ago now I put heavy piles bricks those white tiles generally used and abused that seat that sits outdoors 24/7 I will give timber a quick sand to get abuse marks out of seat no sikkens peeling though. The white is spilt grout for the white marble tiles.

If it was my furnature I would wash if in suds ( maybe use a wood cleaner degreaser if such a thing exists) dry the wood them apply sikkens periodically and sand if you like to doing that 60-80 grit. will help revel good wood and allow sikkens or Polyurethane to give maximum protection.

But Polyurethane will need resanding in 5 to 10 years sikkens just rebushes back on No peeling or flaking of sikkens

I just check Sikkens application notes they are saying the oil needs to be removed first.

DECKING" OUTDOOR FURNITURE" SPA BATHS
Cetol HLS:
OR
Cetol Deck:
OR Cetol Deck Plus:
Apply 3 coats Cetol HLS in your choice of colour.
Apply I coat Cetol HLS, followed by 2 coats Cetol Deck for optimum
UV protection - colour 078 Natural (honey amber) only.
Apply I coat Cetol HLS, followed by 2 coats Cetol Deck Plus - for a
slip resistant finish.
Directions
• For added UV protection on decking we recommend the use of a darker shade than Cetol HLS
077 Natural - eg 006 Light Oak, 009 Dark Oak etc.
If a "natural" look is preferred, then 2 top coats of Cetol Deck or Cetol Deck Plus 078 Natural
would be the appropriate system to achieve maximum UV protection.
• On close grained timber like Jarrah, Batu etc allow at least 2 days drying time between coats to
ensure thorough hardening of the finish.
• Allow new timber to weather for as long as possible (a minimum of 3 to 6 months or until all
leaching of extractives has ceased). For slow drying timbers such as Spotted Gum, Yellow
Balau, Batu etc we recommend a minimum of 6 months. During this period regularly hose down
oily resinous timbers like Merbau (Kwila), Tallowood, Blackbutt etc to allow tannins and resins
to leach out. Then wipe down with a sharp solvent (eg Dulux Prepsol) or Mineral Turps to
degrease.
If the timber is greasy, weathered or shows signs of discolouration, clean surface with a solution
of Oxalic Acid (lOO grams) mixed with warm water (I litre) - or use a proprietary brand wood
cleaner (eg Dekswood by the Flood Co). Scrub the deck with this solution and rinse well with
water. Allow the deck to dry for several days prior to coating.
• For better adhesion, sand with 60 - 80 grit sandpaper and dust down. All dressed timber,
including dressed all round (D4S) must be sanded. Thoroughly abrade shiny or glazed surfaces
to aid the penetration and adhesion of the coating. Always sand along the grain and never
across.
• Use a long haired natural bristle brush and maintain a wet edge when painting. Apply coats
liberally.
• Do not over brush as this will thin the material film leading to an early breakdown of the
system.
• Do not apply to surfaces previously treated with oils, polyurethanes, waxes or spirit stains. See
your stockists for complete removal materials and methods.
• Wherever possible, all exposed end grain of timber should be coated with a liberal application
of Cetol HLS prior to fixing.
• Do not apply to hot or moist surfaces.
• To obtain the best results all coatings should be applied with the grain, not across the grain.
Paint along the length of the board to a natural break or join in the timber.
• Regularly apply a fresh coat around top of spa tubs where the end grain is exposed.
Note: Cetol HLS provides a hard scuff resistant finish, Cetol Deck and Cctol Dcck Plus are slightly
more so, NOT a scratch proof surfac~.

TedBear

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/100885#Comment_100885

Hi @AnthonyBonello , from my own experience, I agree with @Jewelleryrescue on this.

I bought some oiled outdoor timber furniture some years back and was annoyed that the clothing of my self and guests were stained by the oil.

I removed it from the furniture with turpentine and rags then used a marine grade polyurethane to coat it - it was much better in use, but it peeled in the weather and had to be sanded and recoated regularly (about 2-3years).

The Sikkens outdoor furniture product sounds like it might be the one to go for... I would be concerned that there is a risk that the decking oil may stain your clothes as it designed for the harshness of being walked on, not touched, but I haven't used it.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/100885#Comment_100885

Hi @AnthonyBonello

I'm afraid that sanding the furniture will be necessary. Having old and new sealers will cause either a patchy finish and any stain that you use will not get absorbed into the wood. To make it a bit easier for you, I suggest using a Ryobi 300W Random Orbital Sander or similar. It will shorten the time you need to sand the furniture down.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117352#Comment_117352

Hi @TedBear @AnthonyBonello thanks for confirming polyurethane has a medium to low life span before peeling outdoors

Too disperse the oil in the timber a bunch of people used dish suds as it is designed to break down grease quickly, some others also follow that up with a white vinager wash down and timber drying. Turps is oily in its self almost???

After CleaningTest your furnature with a white cloth and see if it has stopped leaching it should be ok to paint it with sikkens then. But we will never know whats on the timber when you bought it so @EricL might be right the sikkens my look patchy if old oily stuff still present so please test sikkens on this on a hidden bit of furniture and see what you think.

Sikkens apply with paint brush will need to dry for a few days I like to really slap it on 3 -4 times furnature feet as this is where moisture will first attack timber furnature and its always good for 2nd coat every where else (I might re sikkens that timber in the photo I showed you as a test for you. ASAP) I can re apply and use white cloth and rub it so I can be sure its safe for your needs and to refresh first hand knowledge of it. I have never being stained by sikkens i know of todate but i didnt test for it either so I should.

Sikkens soaks into timber grain as an oil would but it IS not oily and drys like polyurethane and is high tech and highly uv and moisture resistant. My timber plank seat still going 15 years plus no signs of timber degrading or sikkens failure and still has its stain colour (I used a colour stain premixed in the sikkens not the clear stuff its all the same) The best part is no sanding required to re sikkens, but after 15 years i will hit it for a quick sand to get scuff marks off timber.

AnthonyBonello

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126854#Comment_126854

Thank you all again! This has been most insightful as I am not the most handy person out there but more than willing to give something a go!

I think I will use ‘Sikkens Citol Oil and Tannin Remover’ to help extract the old, cheap oil. Give the chair a really good clean. Then a light sanding down and then as you advised apply the ‘Sikkens Citol Clear Hardwood Oil’ or the ‘Cabothane Clear PU Finish’ to help with ongoing water resistance and maintaining the natural look of the eucalyptus.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133185#Comment_133185

Hi @AnthonyBonello

Please make sure to take lots of photos. I'm sure our members would be keen to see the steps you'll be taking to revamp your outdoor furniture.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133185#Comment_133185

Hi @AnthonyBonello thanks for sharing ‘Sikkens Citol Oil and Tannin Remover tip if you feel like you want to let it know if the oil is removed incase i buy oiled furnature.

@TedBear Just to follow through i re sikkened the out door seating plank that was done about 15 years ago first time, All went well I did orbital quick sand the plank 10 mins worth, just to remove damaged marks on the wood but I didnt try remove in grained old sikkens product.

Well I also had the original sikkens can i used for the first 2 coats and it was sealed properly and when opened looked as normal and ready to go after a quick shake/mix just in case.

I slapped a quick coat on the timber on all 6 sides I took a couple pics of the half painted section and the final coat as a comparision.

Sikkens not gone off in tin after many years yeah.

Half timber painted for comparision of old sikkens and fresh sikkens over coat,

Half just painted compare

Sikkens dried 1 hour later and when rubbed firmly with white cloth there was no marks on cloth and it dries with a semi gloss shine. So I have confirmed to my self sikken s is easy to brush on and years later it is easy to re apply a new fresh coat with optional sanding and took minutes, good to go another 15 years. I would give the job a final wet and dry sanding just to take off mirco spurs you get when you paint a quick light sand 480 grade wet and dry My sikkens was tinted so the more i apply the darker the timber stain as a side note.

1 hour later sikkens dry

TedBear

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137087#Comment_137087

Thanks, that looks like a great product. I will take note for my future resealing of outdoor furniture.

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133185#Comment_133185

Hi @AnthonyBonello I just wanted to make sure we are on the same page as the worse thing about sikkens is there ultra confusing labeling and many products. I have learnt to trust many sikkens products to-date but I can not vouch personally for all of them yet. If and sikkens products say oak or pine etc that means it is a stain. Natural timber finish means clear.

The product I used is Sikkens 1L Cetol HLSe Pine Timber Finish I/N: 1522431 $56.60 Please note this has a LIGHT PINE COLouR STAIN in it which will slightly alter your furniture colour this works as I talked about. I am thinking you don't want to alter furniture colour in any way so the following may suit your needs best. I have no reservations to-date in using new variations in sikkens products.

The "no colour stain" options for your needs Bunnings stocks are as follows: Clear finish Highly robust moisture and UV resistant. Yes its a timber deck Finish but all that means is its tough as nails if you can walk on it.

Sikkens Cetol Deck 1L Natural Timber Finish I/N: 1580495 $57.20

Do you really need 1 litre ??? for 1 furnature think sample pots 1 or 2 of these should give you 1 to 2 coats. save you $$ on a full litre.

Sikkens 100ml Natural Cetol Deck Timber Finish I/N: 1520466 $12.30

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