Timber cladding on gate

[DIYMum]

Good morning brains trust!

I'm hoping to update this gate (then the large double gates at the driveway) by removing the interior metal to just leave the frame, then clad with timber to improve both the asthetics and privacy. Size is 1400mm wide x 1900mm high. The metal frame is 15mm on all sides.

Just wanting to check that if I predrill the timber, what would be the best screws to use to attach the timber to the metal frame? Would these do the jobhttps://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-10g-x-40mm-galvanised-self-embedding-head-metal-screws-winged-50-... 

I haven't decided on what timber I'll use yet, but will be painting it so will probably go for a treated pine picket.

Thanks!

[iolene]

Are you going to be opening the gate from both sides or just from the inside? If from both sides then I'd leave the 2 center cross pieces in place. By doing that you have somewhere to secure the wood to when you cut a hand hole. The 2 cross pieces would also add stability to the gate.

[fake_9999]

DIYer here..

I'm not sure you'd want to clad a gate like this in timber. It looks to be painted mild steel which is already rusting in spots. You'd need treated timber or rot resistant hardwood. Treated timber has copper in it which would accelerate the rusting in the metal gate. Water would collect on horizontal sections where the timber meets metal. If you had a stainless/galvanised frame this wouldn't be an issue. If u stripped the gate back to bare metal and then used a high quality primer and top coat then maybe....

If you're cladding in timber you're already using a lot of timber. I suggest you just build the gate frame in timber. All you need is to replace the frame with timber one. Look at timber gate images online. Galvanised/Stainless fixings only. It you want extra strength I'd use an exterior glue like polyurethane/epoxy.

[EricL]

Hello @DIYMum

Thank you for sharing your question about timber cladding on the gate.

It's great that you've received fantastic advice from @iolene and @fake_9999, both their recommendations are very sound and practical. My recommendation is to use the Fortress Gate System, it allows you to make your own custom size D.I.Y. galvanized steel frame. You can place whatever timber you want onto the steel frame. I suggest using the Ekodeck Plus 137 x 23 x 5400mm Classic Red Rock Composite Decking. Being a composite material it contains no chemicals that will harm the steel.

However, if you wish to use natural timber that is totally possible as well. It sounds like a fantastic project, any updates you can provide while remodelling your gate would be much appreciated. 

Here is a link to help you with the Fortress Gate System: Fortress Gate Frame & Fence Panels

Here is a link to a step-by-step guide: How to install Fortress Gates frames

Let me tag our experienced members @TedBear and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.

If you need more advice or information, please let us know.

Eric

[JoeAzza]

Hi  @DIYMum

I agree all the advice from .@EricL ,  @iolene and @fake_9999, are good, the original gate has a great design, you could grind and sand off the rust, re coat with an anti rust paint and then if you want privacy, clad the gate with colourbond wall sheeting and capping, clad up to the start of the arch of the gate.

[TedBear]

Thanks for the tag @EricL . I can't offer any more to the good advice already on this thread, but I wasn't aware of the Fortress gate frame system, and that may be just what I need for a gate project of my own.

Great ideas linked up with great products is what I love about Bunnings Workshop. 

[DIYMum]

Thanks all for the advice ... I'll have to rethink my options on this now. I was wanting to keep the arch shape on the gate so there isn't a gap at the top. If I go with the Fortress system, would I need to attach timber to the brickwork on the side that I want to hang the gate, or can I attach directly to the brick (like it already is?).

[MitchellMc]

Hi @DIYMum,

I see no reason why the Fortress system hinges can't be bolted directly to the brickwork. 

To add to what has already been mentioned, I think you'll find it quite difficult to attach the timber to this current frame. There's not much of a gap between the frame and the bricks as the hinges are on the inside of the arch. This means when you add the additional thickness of the timber to the front, it will probably hit the bricks before the gate can fully open. The hinges would need to be moved to outside the arch on the face of the wall.

The second issue I think you'll have is that there is no easy way to attach your timber board to the gate frame. Unlike the Fortress system, which using tubular steel, this gate is solid steel. You can't just screw straight into it. With the Fortress system, you simply pre-drill and countersink holes in your timber and then attach it to the tubular frame with Zenith 10G x 30mm Galvanised Self Embedding Head Metal Screws Winged. The screws cut their own hole in the metal. For your solid frame, you'll have to pre-drill the entire frame for every single hole and then screw through it into the timber with a standard Zenith 8 - 10 x 25mm Galvanised Countersunk Rib Head External Timber Screws. That would be a real pain.

Please let us know if you have any more questions.

Mitchell

[TedBear]

@DIYMum you could also keep the arch shape at the top by either:

a) cutting the timber boards so they make up an arch shape at top  or,

b) cut the top arched section from your existing gate and attach it to the top of the new gate's frame (not the timber). You would need to place the top horizontal at the correct height to allow the arched metalwork to bolt on top of it, and  also screw it to some of the woodwork so it doesn't fall over, and also clears the archway roof.