Child Item

What timber to use outdoor furniture?

I’m thinking about making some outdoor furniture. Ie a table and 2 bench seats. I thought about using treated pine but was worried about the safety of that and then considered merbau decking for the bench and table tops but was wondering if I should use hardwood for the legs. I know I could use merbau as well but I am not a massive fan of the glued timber and can’t seem to find solid merbau. Then if I use hardwood it will never match the prestained merbau? So does that mean either I use the glued merbau or use hardwood for the whole project. In which case what timber would be good for the table top and legs?

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Furniture

Building and Construction

Comments

EricL

Hello @RonJ

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about what timber to use for outdoor furniture.

I see that you've had a think about Merbau timber. I suspect that if you did find a solid piece of Merbau it would be expensive. I totally understand your observation in regards to the hardwood not matching the pre-stained Merbau. My thoughts on this are to wait until both pieces of timber have weathered heavily and then re-staining both to get a measure of uniformity. In regards to the glued Merbau, the choice is up to you, which one do you prefer, and will it fit the design you have in mind? There is always the option of using steel legs instead of timber ones.

I also suggest having a quick look at this discussion - Outdoor table using Merbau fence panels by @daniel4

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @RonJ

I definitely agree with you not to use treated pine. It's a poor quality timber that deteriorates quickly and hard to maintain. And as @EricL mentioned a solid section of Merbau will be extremely expensive.

I would consider looking at some of the reclaimed timber merchants. They have so many options to select from that you could put your own mark on. Nothing will be cheap, but timber isn't anymore regardless of type.

You could combine using the large range of legs available from Bunnings to help save on expence.

Nailbag

Screenshot 2025-01-22 at 8.23.08 pm.png

Dave-1

Good Evening @RonJ

Welcome to the community 🙂 Glad you stopped in and seriously there are so many projects in here that you can pull what you need from them 🙂

I have built an outside bench on wheels Outside timber lounge with wheels using a mixture of Pine for the frame, just normalnon structual pine plus merbau and white gum I got on special as end of run from my local Bunnings. Its just gone a year since I built it and its trundling along fine. I would say its under partial cover but everything is sold as and Imove it around a lot.

I have also built an outside Bench Outside bench with the same mixture of timber. It has hgeld up well apart from me installing it too close to a decking post 😲 lol But really its held up extremely well. I have only given both 2 coats of oiul. They are due to have another one around now. I used a cabbots clear oil from memory.

I also have built this from hardwood recovered from work, was used for concreting Outdoor table build It has stood up well in the weather with no protection. I had to tighten up the bolts this year was all plus a coat of oil.

So for your question, have you considered using ex timber from houses being pulled down. I have found that a lot of the old timber is red hardwood, much like merbau. Dining table build and seats reupholstering is a inside table project I did a decade ago and it reuses a metal frame and the recyled house timber I am refering to. A lot of time you will see people advertising it for free, Or if you table and bnch seats are undercover then you could go the route I did.

Dave

RonJ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47763#Comment_47763

Wow @Nailbag. That’s a beautiful table top. I have some salvaged 170x50mm bits.. 2 that are 1500mm and 1 that’s like 190x50 and almost 3000. The chippy that removed

them said they were worth keeping , maybe he said spotted gum but I am totally not sure.
Id be anxious using these as I am simply pretty hopeless… takes me 2 goes to change a washer🤣 and I would need to buy a few tools to clean them up. But it’s definitely worth considering.

RonJ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47761#Comment_47761

Amazing forum..Really appreciate the advice I have received including that from @Dave-1 and @Nailbag

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85934#Comment_85934

Hi @RonJ

Please make sure to post an update once you decide to start this project. I'm sure I'm not the only one looking forward to seeing the timbers true features once you've sanded all the paint off.

Eric

RonJ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47761#Comment_47761

Hi again

well I used a paint stripper to get a fair bit of the paint off and lashed out and bought a little ozito sander for $48😃

have started sanding and it’s not going that well. After an hour with 80 grit paper have done about a metre and still have paint in the deep parts of the wood. Still not sure what timber it is? Do you think I could do a little more sanding and leave it as is to be like a way to highlight the grain on the picnic table. Appreciate the advice

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/86020#Comment_86020

Good Evening @RonJ

Orbital sanders work but moving the sandpaper around, There are other types of sanding machines (belt sander) and Smaller types that all do different "sands" I did not realise that for years lol

With the timber you are sanding it looks like there are a bunch of raised surfaces? If thats the case then you are trying to sand the high points down to get to the paint, a LOT of effort for sure. If you wanted to remove the timber and paint then Id go for a belt sander. I was surpprised how effective the powered ozitio one was.

However, I quiet like the way the timber looks atm, It has a "history" about it and at the same time you have prepped it for a clear protective coat of some kind. I will let @EricL or @Nailbag suggests types of laquer? to protect it tho as I generally use oil, and oil and paint dont really go well together 🙂

Worth the effort for sure to do what you ahve done and the look it gives.

Dave

RonJ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108307#Comment_108307

Thanks @Dave-1

it does look good and I think if I spend another 4 or 5 hours it will come up pretty nice albeit with the old paint still visible

thanks for taking the time to provide your advice

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/86020#Comment_86020

Hi @RonJ

I would have to agree with @Dave-1 that right now the finish is looking pretty awesome. I love the almost white-wash beach look. But of course it has to be the finish you're after.

Due to the deep grooves within the timber, using any type of "orbital" sander regardless of how course the grit is will be countless hours of work. And the chances are this will overheat the sander and burn it out. A belt sander will be far more effective, but don't buy one because the chances of using it again is near nil. A planer will remove the grooves within a few minutes of multiple passes. Course to fine will ensure there is little left to finish off with a sander. Whereas a thicknesser will have it like raw new in about 5min. But again you will never use bit again.

The best most versatile sander is a Random Orbital Sander. It's both aggressive in removing stock very rapidly to producing a very fine finish. With 30yrs + in the power tool industry, If I could only buy one sander this is it.

If your intention is to stain you will need to go back to raw timber. If it's going to be painted then that level of finish is up to you.

Nailbag

RonJ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108310#Comment_108310

Thanks for the feedback @Nailbag . I’m hoping to do a bit more of a tidy up and leave it with the look it has. Any suggestions for a suitable finishing treatment.. assume it can’t be an oil?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121435#Comment_121435

Morning @RonJ

Unless you remove all the paint and I mean all, you will end up with issues I would think, oil wont soak into the paint and could even make the left over paint curl or dissolve. It will end up being a messy clean up and look a little sporodic I would say.

Dave

RonJ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129676#Comment_129676

Thanks @Dave-1 its a major job to remove all the paint without milling or planning of some type as it goes in quite a few mm in places.

was hoping I could coat it with something to keep the look? Not sure if @Nailbag and @EricL or yourself may have some easyish options.

thanks to all for your advice

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121435#Comment_121435

Yes @RonJ a good quality water-based oil would be perfect if your happy with an enriched clear coating.

This is what I use and highly recommend.

Nailbag

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134872#Comment_134872

Hi @RonJ

If you 've not started on the next piece, I suggest trying this method. Once you've applied the paint stripper, I suggest covering the top with glad wrap or cling film. This will trap the paint stripper and prevent it from evaporating. It will then concentrate on the surface of the timber, and you'll be surprised how easy the paint will come off. Just keep in mind that sanding will still be necessary. In regards to the sealer, I agree with @Nailbag's choice of furniture sealer.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Child Item