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How to mount a custom desk to a wall?

I am attempting to build a custom office/office desk from the 32mm thick custom Bunnings kitchen benchtop range. I'm going to ask to get the Bunnings team to cut the benchtops into what ever size/shapes required to ease fitment and joinery.

The desk will be supported by multiple overrated 90-degree brackets screwed to wall studs and installed with a laser level.

I want to install acoustic panelling on the walls similar to (Prempanel 2700 x 600 x 21mm Black Oak Timber Acoustic Panel)

I want to ideally use the gaps between slats to run cables to keep it cable managed and avoid drilling port holes for cables., but this presents a problem, or at least a choice. I either cut the acoustic panels into two pieces and install to the wall leaving a 32mm gap for the desk meaning the desk will be flush with the wall and will look counter-sunk into the acoustic panels (good) but leaving no room for cables to go down the back.

or,

I have the desk made to the dimensions of the wall 'with' the panels already installed, meaning the desk will be flush to the panels, but the desk will then be 21mm away from the wall, all be it still supported by the brackets. While it means I could run cables anywhere, Ibut 'm not 100% sold on how it may look, I'm also concerned about weight distribution on the brackets. Is this a terrible idea or present a structural support issue because the edge of the desk/contact point is not flush with the wall putting a levering force on the bracket?

I've calculated the weight of the desk and calculated what my walls can support and I'm well within limits.

Or maybe i simply ask the team to notch some channels?

I hope this makes sense, how would everyone else go about this problem?"

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Comments

EricL

Hello @daley85

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your custom desk.

It appears you have everything planned out. I suggest going with leaving a gap between the panels so that the benchtop is pushed against the wall. Your idea of notching channels in the back of the benchtop was exactly the idea I was going to propose. Depending on the number of computers and accessories you'll be putting in, I suggest cutting several channels at the back of the benchtop to allow you to pass computer cables and power cables at the back of the benchtop. This will technically preserve your countersunk look and at the same time allow you to run the cables between the slats.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

R4addZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/41705#Comment_41705

Hi @daley85

All looks good and the only difference with notching out the back of the tops is that it will be very hard to get a nice smooth finish. That is why people prefer to hole saw the tops and use plastic inserts for the cable access. I recently decided to tidy up my desk cabling and one thing I did was go to Bunnings and buy some coated wire storage like these.....

https://www.bunnings.com.au/flexi-storage-clever-cube-white-wire-undershelf-basket_p0234695

and then fixed them under the desk using some bits of these.....

https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-20-x-200-x-1mm-flat-make-a-bracket-single_p3975816

I then mounted power boards to the underside of the desk (watch your screw length).

The undershelf baskets gave me somewhere to put all the power bricks and keep them off the floor and desktop!

Nailbag

Hi @daley85 great work on those detailed plans!

Read this article on what Bunnings cutting service. Plus I would also double check with your local store, especially when handling heavy 32mm bench tops. I'm fairly sure they won't. But could possibly be special ordered in? But they definitely wouldn't cut any channels for cables. @MitchellMc could advise here for clarification.

The acoustic panels are non-structural as they are made of soft MDF battens lined with a thin timber look vinyl. These are then fixed to thick sound-absorbing fibre material. Fixing anything to them will simply crush/compress the battens.

Running channels at the rear of the desk will still expose the cables and plugs from a visual perspective. Unless you're accessing power from above the desk, At some points the power plugs will need to go through the desk or over at an end.

Personally I would run the cables through small access points neatly finished with these available in different colours. Or online places have aluminium ones of all shapes. Just Google "office desk cable entry points"

I have built many home office desks and use one of these power boards mounted under the desk and plugged in to a powerpoint close by. I bought online a surface mounted power and USB outlet which had a DIY installation for my phone etc.

All under desk cables ate cabled tied to small clips screw under the desk or there are lots of cable management options available at Bunnings.

I've included a couple of photos that show using this technique how clean the top of the desk area is of cables and full depth with no cable trays.

Nailbag

Study 2.png

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/41714#Comment_41714

Hi @daley85,

To confirm what @Nailbag has suggested, we'd need to see if we can have those sizes cut to measure by the manufacturer; our team could not cut them in-store for you. Let our Special Orders team know the sizes you are after, and they can inquire as to whether the manufacturer can custom-make those for you.

Mitchell

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/82968#Comment_82968

Morning @daley85

I like your design of the desk and in particular I like the second option you have mentioned.

I do like the idea of cable management but like you I am not keen on holes in the desktop, My general solution is traywork under the desk to hold teh cables off the floor with the ability to have the desk slightly off the wall to allow cables through. Running cables for PC;s and desktop equipment and then keeping them safe and tidy is what ive been doing for the past umpteen years and I still prefer the cabels to go "over the back of the desk and into some kind of tray (a slotted duct less so)

So how about this as a solution.

Run your acoustic panels on the wall first, then your brackets and desk but leave a gap of about 15mm. At one point (preferably in line with were the power point is under the desk) Notch out the vertical timber slats of one or two of the acoustic panels. This is to allow a point for the heads of power cords to go down if needed, then they can slide along the width of the desk.

The span of the desk is large, I know you are after no legs but it may be an idea to have two located towards the walls either side. I know I tend to haveto get up on a desk to do something or other and a body weight plus teh bench weight you hear the creaking. You could always go for legs that arnt fixed but can be slid out on an angle if support is needed? (you know liek the caravan table type legs?

Dave

daley85

Everyone has had really valid and useful feedback. thank you. I have taken all views on board.

I will see if the Bunnings team can get the benchtop supplier to make the required modifications if I supply a fabrication drawing first before deciding on a direction, il be happy to pay extra as it will save my buying the tools and table to deal with it all myself, likely with some expensive mistakes

Its probably a little over-ambitious for my first Reno, and I can see this being completed in stages taking a lot longer than originally expected.

If the community is interested, I will document the Reno, lessons learned and post the progress here.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/106312#Comment_106312

We'd love to follow along with your project @daley85. Keep us posted, and reach out again if you need further assistance.

Mitchell

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/41723#Comment_41723

Morning @daley85

🙂 Love to see the project unfold, never to many photos!

Note of warning for your meausrments, sometimes walls are not perfectly square. So meausure the wall, then measure the wall off the wall by 600mm and you may be surpprised.

Dave

daley85

Hello again people.

So everything is marked out. but I have more silly questions.

I didn't trust my old stud finder, it was giving me inconsistent results so I invested in your professional one that gives a better accurate and visual representation of where the studs are and how wide they are.

In using this I found:

The smaller standard studs are 35mm wide which means the carinya 290 x 240 Black cast brackets I intended to use, only just fit the width of the smaller studs. This concerns me due to the holes being quite offset from the centre of the bracket and very close to the edge of the stud if I am to use top holes. I'm concerned about splitting/failure. I don't like the idea of using alternative unreinforced brackets due to potential sag. i can't find anything with inline centre holes and reinforced so I'm considering offsetting the carinya bracket from the stud centre by about 6 mm which would mean the bottom hole and one of the top holes will be better centralised to the stud but I will only get 2 screws into the wall, not 3.

I am also going to be using batten flat head screws that fit the holes perfectly with a 5mm pilot. i haven't trailed to see if a drill will give me a decent angle to screw with the bracket in place or whether I need to buy a smaller impact tool yet. Any major red flags gents or advice/alternatives?

Having said that for the larger studs, I wanted to use the Carinya 400 x 350 mm Black Cast bracket but the holes are 9 or 10mm and I cant find a batten screw large enough to fill the tolerance.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/41998#Comment_41998

Afternoon @daley85

How about using different brackets?

Carinya 380 x 380 x 40 x 6mm Heavy Duty Angle Bracket - Black

For the size issue you could use washers over the holes with a thiner but high tensil screw.

Having a look at your plans on the wall 🙂 Good way to visulise it I must say. How about a double rail just under the front of the bench to stop any flexing. Fixed to both left and right side walls? By double rail I mean two lots of 70 *35mm on its side joined. You could add 30mm to the overall height to help accomodate the leg room underneath the desk. That way the brackets could be smaller as the front rail will carry some of the benches weight.

Dave

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/41998#Comment_41998

Hi @daley85

That is an excellent suggestion coming from @Dave-1 in regards to an alternative to the angle brackets. Using the 70x35's is also a viable option as extra support for your benchtop. My added suggestion is to drill pilot holes into your studs to prevent splitting the timber, especially if you 'll be using larger screws.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/83120#Comment_83120

Hi @daley85

"I've calculated the weight of the desk"

What did you calculate the weight to be?

Regards your aluminium brackets (or any brackets you use) could you drill screw holes whatever diameter and wherever you want - then epoxy/bog/paint over the holes you don't want?

The room is 3 metres long below the windowed wall?

Thinking along the lines of @Dave-1 and @EricL above (I think) - would a 'ladder' like structure screwed to the three walls support the desk?

No brackets.

Just pre-beer thoughts.

Cheers.

(Disclaimer* - this is not the underside of a desk)

(EDIT - sorry @EricL - I missed your post above.)

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/106416#Comment_106416

Using the Bunnings Think Timber 3600 x 600 x 32mm Modular Benchtop - Sapele - as known dimentions and weight of 55kg.

I calculated (with help) just the length of the longest wall, as it will also be supported by the adjoining walls as a C-shape, but this one takes the majority of the load.

I did do this originally for the total volume of the complete desk, and ran calcs for the number of available studs, and its well within rated support.

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/83120#Comment_83120

I like this idea.

i didn't think I should be using a bracket that supports just 30mm over half the depth of the desk. The Desk is 700mm deep along the back wall and 600 on the sides. The bracket is 380mm deep. If this is not a concern. Then perhaps I'm worrying over nothing?

The next challenge is how do you join a C-shape desk with minimal wall-to-wall tolerance. I can only assume with my restrictions it has to be 45 degree corner joined. Can (more qualified people than me) Domino join on a 45-degree??

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/83120#Comment_83120

Also, that bracket, in my mind. dont you think that will flex?

If no, looks like I'm going to get some more brackets. i have so many now..

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/106424#Comment_106424

Hi @daley85,

Benchtop joiners and PVA glue are used for your corner joins. You could have a professional cut and join at a mitre with dominos.

The brackets mentioned by @Dave-1 are heavy-duty and 6mm thick. However, they could flex if weight is placed on the front edge of the deck. Stayed brackets are always best to prevent this, but they pose the issue of the stay being in the way.

Mitchell

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/120394#Comment_120394

Im hoping the suppliers of the bunnings custom benchtops can do this for me, as if I make a mistake which I more than likely will, that's the whole top ruined or a lot more work to get it right again.

I will go speak to special orders today and let people here know for future reference.

Thanks

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/120393#Comment_120393

I messed this up, this one is correct below. the wall is 3680mm long, not 2480 as I posted earlier.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/128996#Comment_128996

Morning @daley85

The mathematics you have mention have left me standing there scratching my head 🙂 I understand them but think its an involved way to sort out a bench.

The benches/desks I have stood on while working have all "flexed" a little, especially the longer sized ones with no middle support. Thats why I have suggested heavy duty brackets plus the extra support bar acxcross the width.

In the timber yard of your local bunnings you will find timber sleepers down the back usually. if you are lucky you can chock one up with two pieces of timber atthe most extreme ends of a 3m length, then gently stand on it. This is what I am worried about the bench and your calculations. Someone like "me" will come along and either half sit or stand to fix something on the wall and the 100kgs of "me" plus the tabletop itself will all be focussed in on one point. I was told dont let people stand on top of a 20mm ceaserstone bench for the same reason, voids the cracking warranty.

Dave

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134448#Comment_134448

Yes I was thinking the math was just gonna be something like 10 kg per metre.

Just to confirm what I think Dave asked earlier @daley85 - you want no legs with this desktop?

Noyade

From Page 2 @daley85

"I can only assume with my restrictions it has to be 45 degree corner joined."

I'm thinking this would need perfectly square corners in your room - and perfectly cut 45 degree mitres. And the longer the mitre, the more chance of an expanding gap. Then again I only have one kitchen top assembly as experience - but the kitchen bench-top supplier refused a mitre for the one and only kitchen corner.

🤔

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/42035#Comment_42035

by reducing the long side depth from 700 to 600, this will make perfect 45-degree mitres.

The wall-facing corners can be radiased if needed. or sanded. they will be hidden by 27mm of wall panel slat as far as I'm aware

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137954#Comment_137954

But yes sorry. i ideally want no legs. although I think I may have to compromise

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140345#Comment_140345

Updated drawing

daley85

600 & 700 deep version (saving for my reference) 600 version.png 700 version.png

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/42037#Comment_42037

Afternoon @daley85

Have you checked that your corners are true 90deg? (and also accurate across both outside walls) I am yet to find one in any of the houses I have been in and sad to say even I messed up my own corners when I was lining the garage walls lol seriously I was shocked at my "fail" level.

Dave

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/83141#Comment_83141

Oddley enough i did check this, and its within a few mm, I could always reduce by 5mm ish on wall contact sides as the wooden slats are quite deep and will hide the edge/contact, the squareness is astonishing because the rest of the house including some things that should be 'quality' are not.. and the more I look the more upsetting it is.

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/83141#Comment_83141

To all,

it looks like the bunnings team cant do it.

This benchtop is not possible due to the exposed angle on the left hand end.

The colour the customer has chosen is a Think benchtop with is now DIY only, which to my knowledge is basic panels cut to length and depth, with no angles."

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/106432#Comment_106432

Afternoon @daley85

Is that what the special orders desk said?

Things are always doable but considerations of things that can go wrong can be an issue.

It being a timber benchtop it should have no issues being exposed unless they are thinking its laminate? But then Ive seen kitchen benches at angles?

Something sounds liek its gone South. Im sure one of teh Bunnings crew will be able to sort the issue into something more understandable.

Dave

daley85

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/120401#Comment_120401

Correct, that was the response from the Midland team. i might ask another branch.

failing that, any one else know any custom benchtop makers?

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