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Hi,
I'm thinking of restoring the timber window frames myself. Some of the frames, as seen in the pics, are rotten.
Can I just replace only the part that's rotten, and if so, how? Because few of them are beyond repair with builders' blogs and stuff. That's what I think. ![]()
And as I'm going to do all the window frames, what tools am I going to need? Any step-by-step guidelines that someone can direct me to would be much
Thank you. Looking forward to hear some advice.
Hello @hazz
Just a friendly reminder that working with glass can be dangerous, an accidental hit with a tool or when too much force is applied could shatter the glass and cause injury. Please make sure to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working with glass.
The rotted trim will need to be removed with a very sharp chisel and replaced with a similar sized timber moulding. The mitre cut on the trim must be perfect in order for it to fit perfectly back onto the window frame. However, if you feel that it is currently outside your current D.I.Y skills, I suggest engaging the services of a competent handy person or builder to repair your window frame.
I also suggest having a look at this discussion - How to replace rotten window trims? by @flummoxed01.
Let me call on our experience members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.
Eric
Good Morning @hazz
Now thats an interesting question, I flip from a noooo to a yesss in renovating the frames.
My thoughts step through the issues and hardness level (HL)...
- remove the existing window HL8 (mainly due to the rotten section and possibly having nothing structul to stop flexing)
- removing glass panels (without breaking them) HL8 (All the beading/putty, potentially nails)
- replacing the base piece only HL6 (maybe the easiest part of the string, depends on how accurate you cut)
- Replacing the horizontal cross support HL8.
- putting the frame back together HL6
- glass in frame and putty HL5
- installing frame back into window gap HL8 (especially if you havnt done one before)
Things that will need to be done while you are restoring each window is to secure the opening of the pulled out window. The first one may take the longest time to do. If you crack a pane of glass (potentially) then a glazier will be needed to cut a new pane. The glass if its an older window wont have any safty breaking features so you will end up with the long sharks tooth pieces)
The hardness level goes up if any of teh windows you are replaceing have moving parts.
Now for the yessssss
The job looks easyish, still hard.
- How are your timber skills?
- Sourcing the correct timber
- Having a local glazier about to buy replacement glass.
- The knowledge that you did it yourself would be high on my list.
- Price of tooling up and parts plus time against replacing them professionally.
The Hardness Levels are only my estimation of what it would be if I had a go and possibly should be higher
Its hard to guess when you havnt done it before. Going through the steps I just considered, if you have not had experience with timber before I would edge towards a professional installer or delay while you get some experience working with timber.
Dave
Hi @hazz
I just did two last week but didnt take photos which I could have shared. But I don't recommend the first bit I did for a beginner, which I basically covered both sides of the windows with a heavy canvas sheet and broken them carefully. This make it a much more controlled method for removing the glass thats been fixed to very old frames. Of course a Lot of PPE was worn, thick gloves and eye protection. I do this because invariably the glass will break trying to get it out of an old timber frame. I also only personally do small windows, max 900mm x 900mm. Anything larger I would send off for a professional glazier to do.
1. Use a sharp knife to run along the edge of the quad timber trim
2. Use a flat 25mm chisel and hammer to gently tap under the quad and work your way along until your can pry each side out.
3. Wearing the PPE, wiggle each piece of glass out stuck to the edges
4. Remove any brad nails and clean the edges of all remnants of glues, silicone, debris etc. with your chisel.
5. Measure the internal opening of the window frame less 3mm. But do multiple checks the window frame is square so that 3mm will allow plenty of wiggle room for the new piece. Then measure the thickness of the original glass.
5. take the measure to a local glacier. They usually aren't very expensive. I had 2 x 650mm x 650mm @4mm thick costing $38each
6. You will need to buy matching sized quad in either hardwood or primed H3 treated. Then use a mitre box and trim hand saw to make the cuts. If using primed timber, then the ends need to be primed to prevent rotting. I used Tasmanian oak
7. Line the inside edge of the frame with clear silicone then fit the glass.
8. Run another bead of silicone on the outer edge of the glass and frame.
9. Pre-drill pilot holes every 200mm in the timber trim and use a brad hammer and 25mm bullethead nails to secure the trim. Then punch the nail heads in
10. Fill the nailhead holes, sand and paint.
Nailbag
Thank you so much
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