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How to attach gate frame to brickwork?

Hello Members,

The Wood screws dislocated from the wall. Should the gap be filled again with cement, drilled and fixed. (or) any alternative fixtures are available to prevent this from happening again. Reckon due to the wind pressure the door is frequently getting pushed for above event to happen. Could you please list the materials for resolving this.

WhatsApp Image 2022-06-18 at 11.33.34 AM.jpeg

Intent to replace below lock mechanism with door lock that can be accessed from both sides of the gate. Can you please propose any suitable two way door lock and ways to close the holes in the gate (if that is exposed) after fixing the two way lock.

By the way, please propose suitable paint and tools (I'm paining for the first time) to touch up the scratches that were left over due to be movement of the dislocated gate.

Door Lock

Thank you.

MM

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I'd recommend you switch out the timber screws and plugs for Dynabolts. They'll provide a stronger hold than the plastic plugs. You'll need to enlarge the holes to allow the Dynabolt head to enter the post and fit it into the wall. I'd suggest at least three Countersunk Dynabolts holding the post to the wall.

We have a range of gate locks for you to choose from. Something like this LokkLatch gate lock could work well. This gate lock can be accessed and locked/unlocked from either side of the gate. Ideally, you should position the new lock to cover as many holes as possible. Those holes that won't be covered can be filled with epoxy putty and then sanded back flat when cured. You'll then be able to paint the repair with the correct Colorbond colour to match your gate.

Please let me know if you need further assistance or have questions.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/20065#Comment_20065

Hello @MitchellMc

Thanks for your recommendation.

Prepared the items list for the purchase. I have opted for Dynabolt - Stainless Steel considering the location of the part in outdoor environment preventing rusting. [ Not sure countersunk dynabolt has same material characteristics ].

Could not understand the difference between Dynabolt Masonry Anchor and Dynabold - Nut - Bolt.

Noticed the drilled holes in the post (that holds the door) are of different size. Which drill bit should I use for enlarging the size of the hole, as shown in below image.

For installing the sleeve anchor, it looks the hole (in the brick) is too large and to be sealed again and drilled for 10mm hole. (with depth of 80mm for accomdating 75mm sleeve anchor). Can you please recommend any filler to fill the gap. (Please refer to below image). Also a recommendation for masonry drill bit (10mm size), as there are so many tips in the market, I can buy one that lasts longer for other jobs as well.

To close the drilled hole at the frame, request the name of the below part. (other parts were removed today from the frame as part of preparation)

To make the job easy, I would like to seperate the door from the post and afraid that the bolts might not be able to fit in again. Can below bolts be fixed again to secure the door to the frame, once the installation of the post to the wall is complete.

The workmanship at the start is not so great that the tradie drilled two holes, packing with inserts. Are there any pullers, they can completely take the inserts out.

Noticed the door post is grounded in below manner, with empty area around the post in the ground. Should I fill them with gravel. (or) it should be left as it is for any reason. If you could advice for the right solution along with materials for purchase is appreciated.

Thanks for the recommendation of two way lock and added to the purchase list. The video posted in Bunnings website (at the last portion) informs about optional Brushed chrome covers (for the handle). Should I order that from D&D technologies or Bunnings offer then for sale. Aside, I reckon, the drill bit which you will be proposing for enlarging drilled holes ( for the post ) will give me an idea for selection of drill bit (small size) for drilling the holes in the gate for fixing the lock. [ The video informs about fixing screws - looks like wood screws; Not sure should I pre-drill any smaller hole before that ]

Sorry for the lengthy message as questions pop up when the taks is performed.

Hope to hear from you soon.

Thanks

M.Muthu.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/72718#Comment_72718

I suggested the countersunk anchor versions as their head is smaller, allowing you to minimise the hole in the post's outer wall. You then can use a screwdriver bit in a drill to tighten them up. When recessed, the anchor you've selected requires a socket to be attached. This would mean the hole in the post's outside wall must be large enough to accept the socket. As opposed to an approximately 10mm hole for the countersunk anchor, you'd need to drill a hole up to 15-20mm. It would be best to speak with a helpful team member in-store, and they'll be able to measure the head of the Dynabolt and provide a suitable drill bit.

Instead of filling the existing hole, I suggest you choose a different location for your new fixings. This 10mm masonry drill will be suitable.

You could be able to use these push-in caps to fill the holes. They come in a few different sizes, so hopefully, one of them will fit for you.

You'd likely be able to undo those screws and remove the gate from the attachment post. I can't see any reason why they wouldn't fit again afterwards.

There is no dedicated tool for removing those wall plugs. I'd imagine you'd have the best success with some long-nosed pliers.

If the post is firmly attached to the wall, then there is no reason to do anything with the base of the post. You might like to fill in around it with pebbles for aesthetical reasons.

You can order product accessories like the chrome covers through the team at your local store's Special Orders desk.

You might like to check out these stepped drill bits. When drilling through thin material, they allow you to drill many different hole sizes with one bit. The deeper you drill into the surface, the larger the hole gets.

The screws supplied with the door latch are self-drilling and do not require you to pre-drill any holes for them. They'll cut into the steel/aluminium on their own.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99779#Comment_99779

Hello @MitchellMc

Are there any small bench ( height adjustable ) available, where the gate can be placed at appropriate height for securing the gate screws to the post.

I removed the gate with ease. But putting it back require lifting.

Thanks

MM

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117705#Comment_117705

Hello @nagumuthu

I suggest using some timber off cuts to lift the door to its original height or you can ask a friend to come over and help you lift the door while you are re-attaching it.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127134#Comment_127134

Hello @MitchellMc @EricL

1. Are there any tools available to ensure the posts are of same height at the top.

The ground is sand and thus the reference from the ground might not be accurate.

Thought of using a string from the left secured post (fence side). Wondering on how to tie the string to the brick.

2. The post (Brick side) looks slight bent leaning away from the wall by sound 5 mm when fully pushed to the brick. How the bend can be removed to make the post straight.

Thanks

MM

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133373#Comment_133373

Using a level would likely be the best way to ensure the posts are at the same height. You could either get a longer level that will reach the whole way across and sit on top of both posts or use a flat piece of timber between them and sit a shorter level on top of it.

Can you force the post back against the wall and close this 5mm gap? You might need to wedge some timber between the two posts and hammer it down so it pushes the post firmly again the wall. Once you install your new fixing, it should hold it in position. It sounds like the post might be bent. Can you place it on the ground and stand on it to try and bend it back into shape?

Let me mention a couple of our knowledgeable members, @TedBear and @Jewelleryrescue, to see if they have any thoughts on returning the post to the correct position.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117705#Comment_117705

Perhaps this product will be what you are looking for to help hold the gate at the correct height?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/delf-assorted-builders-wedge-24-pack_p1146750?

I have a set and use them often for this type of problem. You'll still need someone to help hold the gate upright while it suits on the wedges.

When you get the right height of wedges, place two rubber bands around them to keep them together. Best to use two piles wedges to get the gate straight while you attach the hinges. Usually up to three wedges per pile is enough.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127145#Comment_127145

Amazing @TedBear. Happy on your proposal.

I also thought of using Car Wheel scissor Jack for uplifting the door. Have not tried yet.

Either one should work. But the wedges are of universal for any job. Thanks for that.

Thanks

MM

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133376#Comment_133376

Hello @MitchellMc @EricL @TedBear

I’am having problem in levelling the posts.

Post near the brick is higher than the post at fence side and to get balanced level the post at brick side is to be pushed in to the ground.

Post and the square hole

is pictured in below image.

I recoon some mud/ concrete is inside the hole and to be removed. The hole is around 50CM deep. Which tool can be used for digging and removing the dirt from The square hole of size around 60mmx60mm.

Or the post is to be trimmed at the bottom. Which tool can be used for trimming the post.

Thanks

MM

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137205#Comment_137205

The post is an old post and the chances are the mud occupying some space inside the hole.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133376#Comment_133376

Anchor to fix post to the wall - In the past when I have installed a steel gate to a brick wall (similar to your situation), I have used anka screws as I found I was nervous with dynabolts damaging bricks.
Existing holes appear to be on mortar joints than or bricks. I wonder if that’s the reason they didn’t hold well! Perhaps cut protruding plastic plugs with a Stanley knife, fill the holes with a gap filler, before drilling a hole above or below that location. Once the post goes against that wall, no one would be able to see the remainings of the plug anyway!
Height difference – Perhaps tie a string line between posts just under the plastic caps of the fence posts and hang a lightweight line level like this?
Once you figure out the longer post, mark the required height, remove post cap, cut the post down using an angle grinder and then re-install the cap.
If the brick side post is only leaning away 5 mm, using an anchor towards the top of the post like a dynabolt or ankascrew, you may be able to mechanically push the post towards the brick wall.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137206#Comment_137206

Thanks @Neo19 @ for sharing the steps in detail.

I have purchased Dyna bolts for securing the post to brick wall. Will it crack the brick.

By the way, managed to get the post at same level. Removed dirt at the base of the post ( some of them are hardened inside the base ). While fixing them

in to the hole, pulled up and dropped it heavily with force and did this few times and now the level are same.

Anyway good to know about another tool - leveling in string line. Thanks for that.

The only question now is on Dyna bolt cracking bricks?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139848#Comment_139848

@MitchellMc @TedBear @EricL

Sorry. Missed to ping you on above post.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141674#Comment_141674

Hello @nagumuthu

Dynabolt screws are very strong, and they put tension in the material they are hooked into. If the brick is not strong enough it could crack under the strain. However, this all depends on the size of the Dynabolt. If you use a Dynabolt that is relatively small in size, then there won't be a lot of tension applied and the brick will be able to handle the stress. Can you please tell us what Dynabolt gauge size did you purchase?

If you are worried about the brick giving way, another option is to look at using Ramset AnkaScrews or the Chemset systems. Both these anchoring options don't apply any stress to the brick wall.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141674#Comment_141674

I'll wait for the experts to weigh in.

In my personal opinion,

DynaBolts can certainly be used in bricks according to it's product description and I am sure many have successfully used it for it for same purpose. In my experience though, I have stopped using them for bricks after I broke one trying to attach a garage door rail to a brick wall.

It is possible that the particular brick was weak.

I have used plenty of Dynabolts for fixing structures to concrete slab and they are very efficient for that.

For bricks though, I'll stick with anka screws.

You can add this in the drilled holes along with anka screws for additional strength.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143060#Comment_143060

Hello @EricL

Here is the detail for Dynabolt.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-10-x-75mm-countersunk-dynabolt-plus-masonry-anchor_p2269888?referrer=RetailApp&utm_source=Bunnings&utm_medium=ProductFinder&utm_campaign=BuyThisProductOnline

I bought this as recommended in one of above thread.

I might tight the bolt slowly and stop the turn at the point before any imperfections appear on the brick. I don’t wish for that to happen.

I am afraid Anka screws lead to situation on Day 1. The gate came out as secured with screw and plug concept.

I can try to drill hole on a brick for Dynabolt for its cracking behaviour. Again, not all bricks are the same.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143061#Comment_143061

Hello @Neo19

Anka screws might be stronger than the wood screws used by Tradies earlier for fixing the gate and I reckon due to that reason the gate came off.

I second your statement that if it is concrete or stronger material,

Dyna is the best choice.

On other hand, Chemset is pretty expensive and not sure on its removal from the brick, if in case the gate is to be removed for any reason. (E.g.painting)

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143061#Comment_143061

The Ramset 10 x 75mm Countersunk DynaBolt Plus Masonry Anchor should be ok as it is not too big and will not cause too much stress on the brick. Your proposed strategy of not putting too much stress on the bolt should be fine. Your goal is to have it firm but not overly tight and thereby preventing too much tension in the brick.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your gate fully repaired.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144028#Comment_144028

Morning @nagumuthu

"By the way, managed to get the post at same level"

Well done. Now that the posts are level - where are the pre-existing holes in the post now in relation to the brick wall? Mortar or sold brick?

This new height will now require latch position adjustments later?

How wide is this gate? Weight - you mentioned it was hard to lift?

Is the post 40mm X 40mm?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144764#Comment_144764

Thanks. Previous drilled holes are now sealed with mortar gap filler.

The new holes are at the centre of the brick.

I will fix dual side gate lock after fixing the gate to the post. Thus latch adjustment is not required.

I will weigh the gate and measure the post back home and post it later today.

Neverthess, the post carried the gate for some time of 3 years and no bend is noticed in the post. Reckon it can carry the weight of the gate.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144028#Comment_144028

Thanks @EricL.

Waiting for the rain to settle down to

pickup the tools.

Will provide an update.

Thanks for the confidence on Dyna.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144765#Comment_144765

That's OK @nagumuthu , you seem to have it under control.

Looking back at all your photos - it appears to me there was only ever one Tek screw holding the post to the wall, holding the counterweight of the gate?

They rebated the metal further down, to accommodate a concrete lip in the slab? - which again appears to have failed/bent once that Tek screw above gave way.

This is in miniature - but I suggest that with whatever anchorage system you go with - place another closely below the top anchor. There are plenty of tricks getting the nut onto the Dynabolt thread through the outer post hole - should you go that way. Cheers!

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144026#Comment_144026

Hi @nagumuthu , my main concern regarding those dynabolts is that they may be too short at 75mm. How thick or the posts? There needs to be an adequate length protruding through to go at least 50mm into the brick to prevent them (or any fastener) breaking the wall of the brick by putting all the load too close to the surface.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144766#Comment_144766

I believe the 'plan' (or I thought so) - is an outer hole is drilled, as is an inner hole - and the nut is attached to the dybabolt (already positioned in the brick) on the inside of the post - as per @MitchellMc 's diagrams/post on Page 1 and as per the original tradesman's attempt. No need for the anchor to accommodate the post's width.

Another old example - this time a coach screw into wood via a hole in steel square tube. A few cobwebs included. 😉

The only reason I asked about the post width above, was to look at the length of long sockets.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145321#Comment_145321

There were 2 wooden screws ( I assume you call them as Tek Screw) holding the post to the brick wall. One on top and another on middle zone. Both of them screwed to the mortar.

The bent ( due to weakened rebate material) is rectified now by bending back with F clamp and a steel pipe.

I will place one Dynabolt on top, another in middle and possibly one close to ground (if top two does not provide enough support. To take note, bottom post is guided by concrete square hole)

There shouldn’t be any nut to Dynabolt, as it is hammered to the brick and tightened on its head for better gripness, if I’m right to say that.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144766#Comment_144766

I will measure the thickness of the post this evening. In eyesight it is within / around 2mm.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145323#Comment_145323

Ahhh...I see now.

"There shouldn’t be any nut to Dynabolt" - @nagumuthu

I see now.PNG

I was thinking off a different variety of Dynabolt that uses a nut.

Please carry on.

I shall cease and desist. 😁

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145754#Comment_145754

@Noyade @TedBear @EricL @Neo19 @MitchellMc

I had difficulty in transferring the centre of 20mm drilled hole in the post to opposite side.

Used tapes and trysquare for transferring the top edge of the circle and find the centre thereafter.

Is there a tool to mark the centre of the hole easily to the opposite side, as I need to drill 10mm only on that side, just for dynabolt to enter from that side to hold the brick.

Current transfer method through pencil and trysquare takes time and not accurate.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145320#Comment_145320

The weight of the gate is around 23Kg and the post is 50mm X 50mm; 1 mm thick.

The plan is to secure above gate of 23Kg with 2 Dynabolts of 10 mm X 75mm.

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