Fantastic job @Yorky88. Great to see you back on Workshop and sharing such a terrific project. I'm sure this will inspire other community members. Did you come up with the design yourself?
Jason
Thanks Jason 👍🏻
Yeah I hope so. Yes I did come up with the design myself however it's not it's not completely original. I got some ideas from online but all the measurements are completely my own. I thoroughly enjoyed this build because not only was it a great challenge but I also got to do half of the build with my dad which was awesome. I also got to show off my handy work and skills. So that was cool.
however I am looking for advice on the best way to finish the table. I need to stain or varnish it but I also want to feature the cracks in the wood but I don't really know where to start or the best products to use so any help from anyone would be great. Cheers
I'm sure some of our keen woodworkers in the community would be happy to assist with advice on finishing the table @Yorky88.
They include @Wayne, @AndrewJones, @She_Skills, @darylhewston, @Brad and @Rusty-Saw.
Will it always be an indoor table @Yorky88?
You might get some help from this post about a coffee table: https://www.workshop.com.au/t5/Getting-Started/timber-finish-for-coffee-table/m-p/11646
It will be undercover but on my back patio as my new outdoor setting as I'm getting rid of my glass top outdoor setting. So it will be effected by the elements still.
@Yorky88
Beaut work mate. Personally I would leave the natural look, however there are so many stain colours nowadays you can pick whatever you fancy.
Wrt protection, maybe look at a marine grade polyurethane. This will help against the weather but also the amount of tinnies that will be placed upon ones masterpiece.
Cheers
Daryl
Cheers @darylhewston yeah I definitely would like to keep the natural look I do love it. I'll probably go down that line of the marine grade polyurethane thanks for that👍🏻. What is the best way to apply polyurethane to get the best smoothest finish?
Spray is the way to go. If you don't have a gun then roll and finish off by using a fine grade brush, similar if you are using gloss enamel.
If you have any offcuts, maybe try a sample first to see how it will look.
You will probably need at least 3 coats, sanding lightly in between.
Ok awesome thanks @darylhewston I'll give spraying a go thanks mate.
Nice work. Looks pretty solid!! I don't like varnish as it ends up peeling when exposed to the elements. I would use a natural oil. You could use a decking oil, linseed oil or a specialist product like Osmo or Whittle Waxes exterior oil. These can all be applied with a good brush. You would need 2-3 coats with a light sand in between. It does need some maintenance, but in my opinion you retain the natural beauty of the timber with oils.
Thanks @She_Skills yeah ok cool that's a good suggestion as that has been my experience previously with a gate I built and stained varnished. It's all peeling off now. I hadn't thought of oils that's not a bad idea but you can't really get the same high gloss finish that you can with a varnish can you?
Has anyone used liquid glass epoxy resin before that might be able to tell me what there experience was like, is it worth the money, and does it last a long time out in the weather?
Looks good! Nice stuff (:
I haven't used epoxy resin as a finish because I'm not into shiny, but I do have a table off I bought from a yaught that's been finished that way and it still looks great. There are some very good hard wax oils which do have a gloss finish. The trick is applying multiple thin coats. The oil penetrates the timber and is not just a coating like varnish.
I have a long way to go!!!!! Great job mate, Dave
Thanks @Daves880. What do you mean you have a long way to go?
I really like this. I've been looking for something like this online and they cost an arm and a leg, so making them myself seems like a really good idea. Is there any chance of seeing drawings? In particular I'm interested in how you did the joints.
I like Meg's suggestion about using oil instead of polyurethane. Apart from anything else, you don't have to worry about smelling the polyurethane fumes, and I love the look and feel of oiled wood.
@Mex Hey mate thanks for your comments. I would be more than happy to share plans with you on this table. If you go and check out my Facebook page https://m.facebook.com/Thats.Palletable/ and send me a PM there and I can organise the best way to send you the plans.
@Yorky88, @Mex
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Hope that helps.
Did you post what and how you made this??
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @annieerbs.
Let me tag @Yorky88 so he is alerted to your question but I don't believe he has plans for the table as he "just knocked it up in a couple of hours".
Let me see if the clever @MitchellMc can create some for you when he is back on the site on Friday. Mitch created some renders so members could more easily replicate another of Marty's picnic table projects.
Please feel free to post anytime you need a hand with a project or have something to share. As you can see, we have many creative and inspiring members sharing helpful advice and amazing projects on the site every day.
Hi @annieerbs,
I've put together some images of how I believe @Yorky88 would have assembled this table and chairs. Hopefully, this gives you a better idea of how you could assemble them yourself.
Start by constructing a frame from 90 x 35mm H3 MGP 10 Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing the same size you want the tabletop to be. Buildex 10-8 x 65mm Climacoat® 3 Countersunk Rib Head Treated Pine Screws would be suitable for joining these and other joints on this project. Include a cross-brace in the middle.
Once you have joined the corners of the frame and the central support, you can attach the legs, which are 90 x 90mm posts. These Good Times 900 x 90 x 90mm Treated Pine Modular Decking Feature Post look like they would be suitable, or you can cut your own from H3 treated posts. You can screw through the frame and into these posts with the screws mentioned above or, for added support, the Buildex 14-10 x 100mm Climacoat Bugle Head Batten Timber Screws.
Next, flip the frame over and cut down pieces of Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing 140 x 45mm to suit the length of your frame. Screw these to the frame with Buildex 10-8 x 65mm Climacoat® 3 Countersunk Rib Head Treated Pine Screws.
For the seats, cut four pieces of 90 x 35mm H3 MGP 10 Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing to the width you want your seats. Since you are using 140mm wide planks, 280mm would be suitable. Cut four pieces of H3 treated post to the height at which you would like your bench to sit. Join all the pieces with Buildex 10-8 x 65mm Climacoat® 3 Countersunk Rib Head Treated Pine Screws.
Cut a cross member to span between the two seat ends the length at which you require the bench. Screw it in position with the Buildex 10-8 x 65mm Climacoat® 3 Countersunk Rib Head Treated Pine Screws.
Cut down two pieces of Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing 140 x 45mm to suit the length of your bench. Screw them in position with Buildex 10-8 x 65mm Climacoat® 3 Countersunk Rib Head Treated Pine Screws.
That should cover the basic construction of this table setting. All timber used is H3 treated and suitable for exterior use.
Please let me know if you need further assistance or have questions.
Mitchell
