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How to paint rusty metal door frames?

LivMitch · 2023-06-11T23:58:06+00:00

Hello there, I am prepping and painting: * 6 internal wooden doors (painted with oil-base) * All have metal frames (painted with oil-base) - some rusty patches * 1 bath patch – 5-cent coin size, rusting around edges of a previous repair (used Selleys Application Touch Up). * photos of all below. Sanding * What grit…

LivMitch

Hello there,

I am prepping and painting:

6 internal wooden doors (painted with oil-base)
All have metal frames (painted with oil-base) - some rusty patches
1 bath patch – 5-cent coin size, rusting around edges of a previous repair (used Selleys Application Touch Up).
photos of all below.

Sanding

What grit sandpaper do I use on oil-based paint metal door frames?
How smooth does it have to be? I'm doing it by hand (1960s multi-indented
What grit on wooden doors?

Rust

After applying rust converter (metal frames) how long should I wait to paint?
Re bath repair, do I attempt to scrape off the old Selleys repair? (Seems solid, don't want to risk a hole/damage.)

Undercoats

Metal frames and wooden doors – is Dulux Ultra Air Primer OK?
1 or 2 undercoats (existing paint is cream, I'll paint a warm white)?

Topcoat

Is 1 top coat Taubman’s Ultimate Enamel metal frames and wooden doors OK?

Hinges

I can’t take the doors off myself, they're too big/heavy. Hinges are all heavily painted, some rusting.

How do I do tackle hinges - do I strip them using turps or try a wire brush?
Would it be useful to apply graphite or WD40 before painting them or after?

Thanks so much for your help.

Liv 🙂

heavily painted hingedoor frame and doorframes).

20230609_bubbling rust 2.jpg 20230609_bubbling rust.jpg re 20230609_rust 2.jpg

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Comments

EricL

Hello @LivMitch

Thank you for sharing your question about painting your metal door frames. Before you begin, I suggest checking for rust bubbles along the frame of the door. These will usually have slightly raised oval indentations on the body of the steel door frame. I recommend using a hammer and lightly tapping any bubbles you see along the frame of the door. These areas will need extra sanding to make sure that the rust is thoroughly removed.

If you are not keen on manually sanding the surface, I suggest investing in an electrical sander such as the Ozito 200W Multi Sander Kit. This has 3 interchangeable bases that will allow you to do large flat surfaces and detail work. It comes with a standard packet of sanding sheets that will allow you to tackle sanding jobs easily. I recommend using 240grit sandpaper to get a textured surface for the primer to get a grip on.

Please note that the 240grit sandpaper will also work on the timber door.

Once the frame has been properly sanded, your next step is to clean the painting surface down with Sugar Soap. Wipe the frame down with a clean rag and fresh water to remove any residual Sugar Soap and let it dry off. I recommend using Dulux Precision primer, and once that has cured according to instructions, a water-based enamel topcoat in your choice of colour. The Precision primer is a specialty product designed for hard to paint surfaces and is ideal for these types of surfaces.

I suggest leaving the bath repair at the moment unless you are prepared to repaint the bath as well. In the meantime, I suggest holding off on this project until you 've completed your door frame repainting project.

In regards to the rust converter, some products state that they dry off in 20 minutes but require 24 hours to cure. Please check the label of your product and follow the instructions.

The Dulux Ultra Air Primer is ok for the timber door, but it is better to use the Precision Primer on the metal frame. A minimum of two coats is recommended so that the old colour beneath is totally covered.

The Taubmans Ultimate Enamel should work fine with both primers as they are both water-based. As for the hinges, it's up to you if you want to sand the paint off to reveal the original hinges. However, if the paint has overhardened due to age it might not be worth taking off as it might peel off more of the paint on the body of the door causing more repair work.

Using WD40 should be ideal to keep the hinges properly lubricated.

I also suggest having a look at these discussions:

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

LivMitch

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/27865#Comment_27865

Hi Eric,

Thanks so much for your thorough and very helpful reply. I'll get to it with all your suggestions.

Thanks also for the Ozkit sander suggestion but I tried it twice on my last painting DIY (a borrowed Ozkit sanding kit with new pads and then brand new Ozkit sander and more new sanding pads). Neither Ozkit was better or faster than hand-sanding. The sanding pads simply would not stick to the black base despite buying several new packs of to ensure they weren't 'off' batches. They kept vibrating off every minute or so, very frustrating. I'll see if I can hire a commercial sander this time.

Again, appreciate your help.

Liv

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/76524#Comment_76524

Hi @LivMitch

Sorry to hear that the Ozkit did not work out. A good alternative would be to use the Ozito ¼ Sheet Orbital Sander. This sander does not need special sanding pads and will work with ordinary sandpaper panels.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your door frames freshly painted.

Eric

LivMitch

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/27865#Comment_27865

Hi Eric,

I tapped the rust on the doorframe as suggested and it became a 2cm-long hole!

Do you have a magical 'filler' repair for this? Some kind of tape perhaps?

See photo: Top section is rust, and bottom circled section is a hole.

I suspect there's two more small holes in this frame from a shower-membrane leakage (15 years ago) on this shared wall, which was fixed, but this must be collateral damage).

Fingers crossed,

Liv

20230620_hole in metal door frame.jpg

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/76575#Comment_76575

Hi @LivMitch

It's better to find out about the rust spots now rather than have them appear on the frame after you've painted them. I suggest sanding down the rust spot edges as best you can and clean the area of debris. I then recommend using Turbo 500ml Metal Builders Bog. My number one tip when using this product is not to use too much activator. Excessive use of the activator will accelerate the curing time of the bog and will prevent you from shaping and flattening the surface.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

LivMitch

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/102237#Comment_102237

Thank goodness for Bog. Much obliged Eric.

I'll follow the instructions but if you think that would advise using 'too much' activator, I'd be grateful for your further confirmation.

Liv 😉 Just back from Bunnings with my new door knobs (after locking myself inside my flat)

Home DIY . . . What an adventure!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/118134#Comment_118134

Hi @LivMitch

Yes, just to confirm, don't use too much activator to prevent the bog from curing too fast. We look forward to hearing more of your D.I.Y adventures.

Eric

LivMitch

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127427#Comment_127427

Eric,

Do you recommend 1 or 2 top coats of water-based enamel for a metal door frame?

Is semi-gloss OK or should I go for something flat?

Thank you

Liv

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133540#Comment_133540

Hi @LivMitch

Two coats are always recommended when applying the topcoat. Aside from the extra protection it gives you a uniform finish on the surface. Using semi-gloss is ok as it repels dust and dirt better.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

LivMitch

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/102237#Comment_102237

Hi again Eric,

Have I sanded these enough? Am I look for bare silver metal or just a smooth rusted surface?

Is it ready for the Ranex Rustbuster?

Also, I'm finding the 240 grit sandpaper very light on. It's hardly making a difference...

Is the aim to sand back the first coat of paint mostly, or just to achieve a slight removal of the top coat? Both these inner frame surfaces are 'sanded'. I spent about 10 mins sanding firmly.

Thanks Eric,

Liv 20230623_rusted thru.jpg 20230623_sanded enough_.jpg

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/118144#Comment_118144

Hello @LivMitch

The goal is to remove as much of the loose rust as possible. It's not necessary to go all the way down to the steel. The work you've done is enough for you to apply the rust converter. Please keep in mind to give it enough time to activate before wiping it clean.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

LivMitch

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/118134#Comment_118134

Hi Eric,

Just an update. Thanks for the Turbo Metal Builder's Bog suggestion but I'd like to suggest to anyone else who reads this post that it may not be the best product for true beginners like me for the following reasons:

It's the consistency of hairy chewing gum and just as difficult to work with!
I had 2 small holes to fill but as metal door frames are hollow, no amount of this stuff would fill them
Despite following instructions, I didn't use enough activator and the bog didn't set - I had to paint over it anyway
The finish was very messy
I achieved a better result on another small hole with Selleys No More Gaps.
$23 not well spent.

Advising beginners cannot be easy when you can't see the job. This is not a criticism, only a sharing of experience.

Your advice is very much welcome and appreciated Eric.

Kind regards,

Liv

TedBear

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127455#Comment_127455

Hi @LivMitch, sorry to hear that your introduction to filling wasn't so good.

Getting the mix of Bog to Filler right can take a bit of practice and it sounds like the instruction "not too much" may have caused you to use too little. There should have been a guide on the tin as to what quantity of filler to use, but those instructions can can be unhelpful too, as they are often expressed as a ratio. I find the thing to look for is the change of colour, but again it would require some practice mixes to see how it sets. Using too much results in it setting too fast, which can also give a disappointing result - and you already know what happens with using too little.

The reason @EricL would have suggested something like Builder's Bog (there is also Plastibond: https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-plastibond-400g-heavy-duty-bog_p1210327) is that while No More Gaps, will (hopefully) look OK once painted, it will not provide the frame with any of its lost strength from the holes, as the Builder's Bog would have done. Hopefully that won't be a problem in your case if there isn't too much metal frame loss.

It will be good to see the final finish when you've got it all sorted.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127455#Comment_127455

Hello @LivMitch

My apologies if the Builders Bog did not provide a satisfactory seal. It's good to know that you've managed to seal the other holes. Please let me know if you wish to return the product. I'll be more than happy to provide assistance and help you with the return.

Eric

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