Would you buy a Mitre Saw or Circular Saw first?

Hi,

I am planning on undertaking some projects at home (build pool pump enclosure, replace battens) that I believe a circular saw will be able to accomplish. However I have some further projects in mind that may require a mitre saw so it had me thinking would I be best to buy a mitre saw to complete all works or is there something I am overlooking/not understanding between the two that would require me buy both.

Thanks in advance!

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MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @HunterProperty. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about power saws.

When deciding between a circular saw and a mitre saw, it’s essential to consider the nature of the tasks you’ll be undertaking.

In terms of portability, a circular saw wins hands down. It’s lightweight, compact, and capable of handling a variety of tasks, including long straight cuts. This makes it suitable for cutting sheet materials, timber lengths, and anything requiring mobility. A circular saw can also replicate many of the cuts a mitre saw can make with the right guides or jigs, making it a versatile choice for general-purpose woodworking.

A compound mitre saw, on the other hand, excels in precision and repeatability, especially for angled cuts, such as mitres and bevels, or crosscuts. It’s ideal for projects requiring consistent, accurate cuts, such as framing, trim work, or constructing items like a pool pump enclosure. However, a mitre saw is limited in its cutting width—usually up to 200-240mm for standard models—and cannot handle sheet materials. Additionally, you’ll need ample space to set it up and accommodate the timber lengths, which often means working outdoors.

If your immediate projects mostly involve general cuts or working with larger materials, I’d recommend starting with a circular saw. It’s versatile enough to handle various tasks and will likely suit your initial needs. However, if your future projects involve a lot of precise, repetitive angled cuts, a mitre saw might be worth considering down the track.

Ultimately, your choice depends on the scope of your current and future projects. Personally, I have both. However, my circular saw gets far more use, and I won't pull out my compound mitre saw unless there is a specific job that requires accurate cuts.

Let me tag @Noyade, @Jewelleryrescue, @Dave-1 and @Nailbag, as I'm sure they'll love to get in on this conversation.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47105#Comment_47105

Thank you Mitchell that’s very helpful. I think a circular saw is the way to go for now. I noted in another thread that upgrading the saw blade is a good move. Do you recommend doing this straight up? If so, what blade is best for general use?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47105#Comment_47105

Good Evening @HunterProperty

My first powered saw was a circular saw, then the second one was a better branded circular saw. This was for building my deck, A lot of cuts on posts and timbers that were off the ground. Then when I got to the point of doing the timber planks themselves I realised I needed something that would do consistant straight cuts and also angled cuts I bought myself a compound saw.

Different situations require different tools @MitchellMc explanation really works.

Id go with a circular saw first (mains powered over a battery one) and then when you get to a point that you start needing angled cuts you will "know" ahhh its time to get that compund saw. My next tool to buy is a Ozito battery circular saw (184mm blade) as I now want one to be able to pick up pieces of timber from the side of the road and they are a little long (I want the extra blad depth over the cheaper 165mm blade)

Its kind of like you buy one tool that works and then it "shows" you that another tool is needed 🙂

Dave

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85616#Comment_85616

Great and makes sense. Thank you!

Nailbag

Hi @HunterProperty

I couldn't agree more with @MitchellMc comments and recommendation. As someone who still uses powertools daily in a very wide range of applications and projects, my Mitre Saw is one of the least used. Whereas my circular saw though isn't my highest usage tool, it is part of my standard set of tools I carry because it will be able to perform all the common 90deg and 45deg cross cuts as well as rip cuts. Along with @Dave-1 it was also one of the first tools I ever bought 45 odd years ago.

I would definitely recommend a cordless model in either Ryobi or Ozito and if you can afford the extra, choose a model with a "brushless motor" These are far more energy efficient, longer lasting and inbuilt protection electronics. To my knowledge they typically don't come with a battery and a charger as a starter kit. So, if you don't already have any of these, then selecting another tool that comes with a battery and charger is the most cost effective way to get into a cordless system. There will also starter kits with compatible batteries in the power garden dept. Another tip when selecting a cordless saw, is that some models have the blade on the left of the handle as opposed to the conventional right side. These are not for left hand users, but offer essentially a better viewing angle for high-hand users when performing long reaching cuts. My recommendation. would be to select one with the blade on the right such as the links I provided.

Circular saws are high-energy users, so the batteries don't last as long as with most other tools. So, getting a seperate 2nd battery of 5Ahr or higher will be a good investment. High capacity batteries also provide more energy.

Circular saws are capable of making very accurate 90deg and 45deg crosscuts with the aid or a rafter square (some call it a speed square). Check this video I made showing how these are performed.

Once you're ready, come back to the community for advice on how to safely use a circular saw. In the meantime the best advice I can give you other than PPE, is to ensure the blade ISN'T touching the material before turning the saw on. Doing so can cause the saw to kick back at you. Cordless models are far more figuring than corded ones when this occurs, but still dangerous all the same.

Nailbag

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47141#Comment_47141

Awesome and thank you. Very helpful. Do you have any suggestions on blade upgrades? I saw in another thread it’s recommended to upgrade blade rather than run with stock

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85630#Comment_85630

Hi @HunterProperty,

Circular saws will come with a general-purpose blade that is good for most things but not fantastic for fine carpentry. There's usually nothing wrong with the blades as they are sharp and new, they are just not designed for fine work.

If you want an upgrade, most chippies I've worked with swear by Diablo blades.

They have blades such as this Diablo 165mm 60T Ultra Finish Circular Saw Blade for fine work.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108049#Comment_108049

I too like Diablo - Dewalt and Irwin as well.

I have purchased a few blades from dedicated saw suppliers as well.

We live in a different world @HunterProperty to when I was hunting for powered tools decades ago. Once the government dropped most of the import tax and companies like GMC started - prices dropped remarkably.

Have you looked at the cost of both? Not unreasonable.

Worth looking into...

Now compare that to this combo. Nearly $400 from the 90's.

I had to lay-by them.

My father's first and only router from the early 70's. It cost him "one weeks wages" - I wasn't allowed to touch it. 😐

Happy hunting - and good luck with your woodwork.

Please keep us updated!

Cheers!

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85630#Comment_85630

Hi @HunterProperty

All of those brands @Noyade and @JacobZ mentioned are excellent. Plus I would throw Kango into the mix.

When selecting a new blade, look for any wording like "made for cordless saws". These will have a thinner kerf (thickness) with improved heat expansion slots, which result in increased runtime of the battery.

As @JacobZ, the general purpose blade usually around 20-24tct (toothed) is perfectly fine for general cross cutting and rip cuts. When performing cuts on splintering type timbers like plywood or you want a cleaner cut on other timber, then a 40tct will be ample. Though a 60tct will produce an even finer cut, personally it would be very rare to make that fine a cut with a circular saw. Thats when the mitre saw comes out when the cut itself also needs to be precise.

Any time cleaner cuts are needed regardless of blade, making them with the material upside down will reduce splintering on the good side considerably. Thats because all saws cut from the underside up. The other tip is to adjust the height of the saw so that the lowest tip of the blade is about 5mm past the underside of the material. It puts more teeth in the material with less friction. Always make sure the power disconnected/battery removed when making any adjustments.

Screenshot 2025-01-12 at 1.48.29 pm.png

Nailbag

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121278#Comment_121278

Great advice thank you! I popped into Bunnings today and bought the corded ozito cicular saw. The price is too good to ignore at $70! In a world where everything seems to be getting more expensive its nice to know we aren't getting gouged on power tools!

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108058#Comment_108058

Great thank you! The depth of the blade and flipping material upside down makes sense but not something id ever think about! Ive bought a saw today and ordered timber for delivery tomorrow. Very excited.

HunterProperty

Ok now I have my saw I am going to attempt installing pine beams to help child/dog proof our front yard. I intend to toe nail the timber in place with a hammer. I am a little unsure how I am going to keep the horizontal sections in place while I join so any advice is appreciated. Is there anything in particular i should be aware of before undertaking this project?

Screenshot 2025-01-13 181340.png

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47255#Comment_47255

Good Evening @HunterProperty

Id cheat a little 🙂 Imagine a rectangular block of timber screwed to the deck behind where your blue plank is and then the same deal on the post. Your new "blue plank" then would be screwed through the blue plank into these rectangular blocks. The blocks themselves are screwed with two screws into the deck and the post. The new planks screws are NOT at the same level as the mounting screws 🙂 The rectangular blocks I would go with nothing less then 50mm to screw into, less chance of timber spiltting the larger the block.

You could use the same sequence for the other two photos. I think squareinstalled screws are nicer to see then angled installed screws. Pilot holes also work wonders for stopping timber splitting.

Dave

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47255#Comment_47255

Hello @HunterProperty

It's great that you've received excellent advice from our members. Just to add to the suggestions made, I recommend the following:

Remember that your cutting blade cuts or occupies a space of 2mm conservatively, placing your blade on the pencil line means that your cut timber will not be exactly as you measured it. Cutting beside the pencil line means that your cut piece should be exact to the measurement you've marked.
Another excellent investment are sawhorses and a builders combination square, it will provide you with so much convenience and you won't have to use chairs to cut your timber.
Always use timber clamps to prevent your timber from shifting while cutting it.
Practice on off cut timber in order for you to see the actual cut piece and if it conforms to the size that you've marked. This also lets you get familiar with your saw's operation.
If your child is watching you, make sure they are at a safe distance and wearing the same protective gear such as gloves, goggles, mask and hearing protection.
Remember that your saw creates a lot of saw dust make sure you are in area that can get messy and won't mind having a lot saw dust lying about.
Always check your surroundings before operating your saw.

In regards to keeping your horizontal pieces in place, I suggest using galvanized screws instead of nails, I recommend using your clamps and drilling pilot holes for ease of installation.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles, mask and ear protection.

Eric

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85677#Comment_85677

Hi Dave,

Thank you! That sounds like a straight forward approach. A couple of questions; Given the deck is not painted, is there a way to hide the temporary screw holes effectively? Its not a big issue but I do try to maximise aesthetics with everything I do. Also I was opting for nails as I figured they would be easier to countersink and hide. The existing joins all appear to be nailed also. Assuming this is correct, is there any particular reason screws would be better?

Cheers.

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85678#Comment_85678

Hi Eric,

Thank you for the advice - much appreciated. I was opting for nails as I figured they would be easier to countersink and hide. The existing joins all appear to be nailed also. Assuming this is correct, is there any particular reason screws would be better? Im also curious if you mean to use clamps to hold horizontal pieces in place? Im not exactly sure how that would be achieved however if possible I like that idea as it wouldnt leave remnant holes in the timber as per Dave's suggestion for temporary blocks.

Thank you!

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108090#Comment_108090

Morningb @HunterProperty

"Ive bought a saw today and ordered timber for delivery tomorrow. Very excited."

Good to hear. Did you also go with the 210mm drop saw?

If so - I'm cleaning out the shed - if you want a secondhand 210mm Dewalt blade - just PM me.

No charge. 😁

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121303#Comment_121303

Thanks Noyade that is super generous! I went with the 185mm circular saw only for now so no need for the blade. Thanks again!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108090#Comment_108090

Hello @HunterProperty

The technique would be to clamp another piece of timber to the post you are nailing/screwing into. This is to prevent your horizontal piece from drifting/moving while you are fixing it in place. Both nail and screws are ideal to fix your timber in place, I personally find screws easier to install as it does not generate a moving force when compared to nailing which often moves the timber out of place when being hammered in. But I will leave the choice up to you.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108090#Comment_108090

Hello @HunterProperty

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @HunterProperty

I think something has been lost in my description 🙂 The "Temporary" pieces of timber you are refering to are meant to be permanant. They are to give a support for the new pieces you are cutting and installing.

I would use screws for the same reason @EricL has mentioned. So many times belting in with a hammer (or even a nailgun) can cause issues such as movement and also splitting of the mounting blocks I have mentioned.

Dave

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121308#Comment_121308

Thank you for clarifying @EricL! That makes sense. Perhaps screws are the way to go.

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47334#Comment_47334

Hi @Dave-1

Oh yes I was assuming they were temporary. Id prefer the aesthetic of having no support pieces so ill attempt without and see how I go. Im going to go with screws too 👍

HunterProperty

Hi All,

Now that the weather has cleared up ive started some test cuts however I quickly realised cutting a straight line is easier said than done. I found it difficult to keep the blade straight and also losing vision of the cut line underneath the blade plate before the blade touched the timber. Any suggestions to help my accuracy and alignment?

I also thought id test some toe screws however the square driver bit that came with the screws seems to be too small for my chuck. Is there an adapter of sorts I need to have or am I missing something completely?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47647#Comment_47647

Afternoon @HunterProperty

🙂 me and wobbly lines are well known to each other 🙂

I take it you are refering to a circular saw for teh first question?

if you look at the front of the blade of teh circular saw there is generally a couple of " markings (notches) on the metal guard. If you line up a test piece of timber where the blade itself is on the line and then line up the notch and keep the notch on your penciled line it will run straight.

As to the Screwdriver bit.

That looks like an impact driver you are trying to put the screwdriver bit into. You will need a slightly different piece for that,

IRWIN Impact Pro Performance 57mm PH3 - 2 Pack

There are different sizes depending on the screws you are using. I prefer using the torqued driver as I have more control over the way the screw is driven into the timber. The screwdriver bit you have atm would go in that torqued driver. I would also suggest to play around and test drive first 🙂

Dave

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/47647#Comment_47647

Hi @HunterProperty,

If you don't want to purchase all new bits, the driver bit you have can be put in a bit holder such as this Kango Hypertorque 60mm Impact Bit Holder or this Diablo 60mm Quick Change Bit Holder.

I was taught to do a mental checklist before making cuts which has always helped me get the best result possible. I ask myself the following -

Am I safe?
Am I comfortable?
Am I making this as easy as possible?
Is my saw set up for success?
Is there anything I can do to improve these things?

This little checklist has helped me countless times and it is simple and easy to do.

If you can set up a jig or guide, this will make your life much easier when cutting and if this can be done quickly, the professionals will always do this. Have a look at How To Cut Laminate Benchtop. This is a simple jig that will ensure you get a nice straight cut. All you need is two clamps and a straight edge, such as a spirit level. A speed square is also a fantastic tool for making crosscuts. You can hold the square against the edge of the material and run the base plate of the saw against it to keep things nice and straight.

Free-handing cuts with a circular saw is not simple and it took me at least a year of full-time construction work, with a lot of practice, using a circular saw every day, to even come close to consistency.

As @Dave-1 mentioned, there will be notches on the front of the base plate that are in line with the blade, if you put a pencil line across the workpiece and line both the notch and the blade up with your mark, this will keep you straight and true.

When cutting with a line as your guide, you always want to cut up to the line, not through the centre of the line. This is because the blade is 2-3mm wide, so by cutting straight through the middle of your mark, you are going to be off by 1-1.5mm every time. It might not seem like much, but if every timber you cut for a project is off by a millimetre, it adds up pretty quickly.

My saw blade is on the left side of my circular saw, so I always try to cut on the right side of the line. This means I get a clearer line of sight to the line. It's hard to show in a photo, but if you try it yourself, you'll notice the difference.

This will often mean I need to move around the workpiece or reposition the workpiece before I make my cut. Making sure you are in the right place, and you are comfortable before cutting will make a world of difference.

Taking it slow and setting your blade depth to the thickness of the workpiece will also help. If the blade is being forced through the workpiece, it can bow which will take you off your line. Taking it nice and slow, making sure not to overload the saw will help prevent this.

Another thing you should do is always wear eye protection. Saws kick up a lot of sawdust, and to see what you're cutting, your eyes will inevitably end up at risk of taking in sawdust. A good pair of safety glasses will help prevent this and allow you to get your eyes in the best spot to see what you're doing.

Outside of these tips, practice is the best thing. You'll start to get a feel for things after you've given it a few tries.

Hopefully this helps.

Jacob

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85862#Comment_85862

Thank you Dave.

I find that once the blade is close enough to the timber to accurately line up with the line, the notch is a few centimetres beyond the timber which make it difficult to line up. Is this common or am I doing something wrong?

Ah that makes sense regarding the bit. What would the equivalent driver be in the ozito range that you are referring to?

HunterProperty

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85867#Comment_85867

Hi Jacob,

Thats brilliant thank you so much. Ill give the spirit level a go as a guide. As I mentioned to Dave the notch appears to be a few centimetres beyond the timber by the time I have the blade near to line. This leaves me guessing if its lined up. What am I doing wrong?

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108214#Comment_108214

Hi @HunterProperty,

If you are cutting narrow material, then the notch is not really useful. Really, it is there for when you are cutting wider things like plywood and MDF panels.

The easiest way to make what's called a "crosscut", across narrow material, is to use a speed square. Running the base plate of the saw up against the edge of the square will give you a nice straight cut every time.

I only had two hands, one for the saw and one to take the photo, but when you aren't taking a photo, you would just hold the speed square in place against the material and then run the saw up against the square. You can use a clamp to hold the square in place, but it's not that hard to manage without a clamp.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108213#Comment_108213

Morning @HunterProperty

Yeah I know that feeling of driving the saw off into the nevermore 🙂 It actually comes down to practice amd muscle memory.

Using an offcut, sit it on a saw horse or bench and cut off the last say 7cm of the offcut, the timber should be wide enough that the feet of the saw rest on the timber as you cut. You will get more confident as you keep doing the cuts. The Saw itself will want to travel in a straight line once your muscles "remember" what you are doing. Whenever I cut some timber after a long period of time the first cut is always "not quiet right" bythe third cut its back to being confident. I extrapolate the line I have marked on the timber piece (Say im cutting a 90mm width) so as long as I have the blade start on the line and the pencil line I extend in my mind I can "see" its traveling straight.

The Torqued drill I have in the ozito range is Ozito PXC 18V Cordless Drill Driver Kit PXDDK-250C

Have a look at my privacy screen (fort) and especially step 2 Courtyard privacy fence and gate build, Part 2 as it explains why I prefer a torqued drill over an impact driver. I was going through hardwood decking into aged hardwood posts as well. So the impact driver sheered off the screws. Once I realised and it did take me a day or so 🙂 then it went smoothly.

Dave

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