Seeking advice on removing metal doorstop/frame (?) and shelves from wardrobe cavities.

Hi, we need to remove the metal components from inside our 1980's wardrobes. Someone suggested it's just a matter of angle grinding. Having never done anything similar, is that the way we go about it, and is there anything we should know in advance?

We are apparently also then needing to patch and paint before the cabinet maker comes and installs all the next shelves, drawers etc. Have also never painted or plastered, so I'd like to minimise the damage needing repair.

Thank you for any help!

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Renovation

Painting

Accepted answers

All comments

Jason

Hi @Moose,

Welcome to the Workshop community. Apologies for the slow reply. Let me tag a few very helpful members who might like to share some advice about how they would go about this job.

@ProjectPete, @Brad, @royq, @gippslandhome, @Bundaboy, @JustJim, @Mathy

When it comes to painting, I'm sure you'll be painting like a pro in no time. This guide from @Peggers should help - https://www.workshop.com.au/t5/Best-of-Workshop/How-to-paint-like-a-professional/ba-p/32597

Thanks again for joining us. We are looking forward to seeing the end result.

Jason

royq

Hi @Moose,
That's a decent sized section so without being able to access all sides you would need a pretty big grinder, which will make a big mess too. My first preference for tool choice would be a multi function tool with metal cutting blade, you'll be able to get into the corners without cutting thru into the wall too much.
Roy

Bundaboy

A reciprocating saw with a demo blade or metal cutting blade should make short work of it I would think BUT I am a big believer that things should be taken out the reverse of how they went in when possible, you, or someone may be able to re-purpose it, are there no fixings at all? I certainly can't see any in the photos but sometimes they are hidden behind reveals etc.

Brad

+1 to what Roy said, not sure how we survived before the multi tool was invented.

JustJim

I agree with all of what has been said. I'm sure this wasn't welded in place so it shouldn't need to be cut up to be removed. Having said that, it may be held with No More Nails or similar construction adhesive rather than screws. Taking that out is going to mess up the plaster considerably.

If you do need to cut metal in place, yes a reciprocating saw (Sawzall or the like) or a multi purpose tool would be far preferable to an angle grinder because of the mess and sparks.

Love the TARDIS ug-boot slippers though! 😃

Moose

Inside of metal support to be removedMy neatest nail hole..Thank you everyone!
I've gotten started, I went out to the shed and found my multi-tool, I normally really only use it for making nature resources for my role in early childhood, and I couldn't find a the metal blade so I got a new one. My husband pushed the shelf upwards and used a screwdriver to lever off one support. I don't have the arm strength to do that so I used one of my chisels and a hammer. I messed up the chidel angle on some holes, so some are neat and some are a bit deeper. All my power packs were flat so I'll try the power tool component tomorrow.
Having never cut metal before, is there anything to particularly watch out for? Will I be dealing with flying sparks and so need a floor cover?
Thank you again!
Vee

Moose

I forgot to say - yes, the ugg boots are a big hit in our house. We have three pairs between us all and sometimes I accidentally end up with the wrong boot, and I always have a moment of thinking "gee, it feels bigger on the inside!"

Bundaboy

You shouldn't get sparks but you will get metal chips going on the floor so best cover it up, please wear eye and ear protection when doing this. Go slow and easy, watch out for kick back by making sure you have a good grip on the tool at all times.

Moose

Partial success! Presenting an almost empty wardrobe cavity. I've learnt a hell of a lot about multitools, including how to (not) treat blades! No more pushing, overheating, or too high an oscillation speed.. The bits I have left are right at the join. This is where the cabinet maker originally told me to cut with the angle grinder, he said they would just be spot welded on. These darlings are not just spot welded! I tried to cut there originally, and I couldn't even start a cut. Someone today suggested that this could be because the weld is too tough to cut. Could I please ask if anyone has any thoughts? I do have an angle grinder, although I haven't yet fold the spindle key. I also found a flap disc, which my friend had suggested would be the better way to go in terms of being worried about using it. But I am very much still unsure of using it and would have preferred to use the multi tool if possible.
Thank you for all you advice, I honestly wouldn't have made it this far without it!

royq

Hi @Moose,
You're right, weld is tougher than mild steel, it needs to be.
Yep it looks like it's time to break out the grinder. You can get by without the spindle tool if you need to, use a leather gardening glove or riggers glove and grip the blade to unwind the lock nut, the friction against the blade will loosen it. Same when tightening back up.
I would start with a grinding wheel rather than flap disc, flappers are expensive and will wear out quickly on that sort of work, they are used for final smoothing once the bulk of it is ground off.
Quick question before you start grinding though, are you going to put a timber trim over this? If so you could notch out the back of it to hide the metal there? I'm just thinking it is going to be really difficult to get the metal smooth enough to just paint and be presentable.
Cheers, Roy

Moose

Thanks a lot Roy. Off to Bunnings for a grinding wheel then. I think you should get a Bunnings points card when you buy a house!! I'll check in with the cabinet maker about the trim question 🙂
Vicki

Moose

All removed, Thank you everyone. Now I’m onto paint prep questions! https://www.workshop.com.au/t5/Whole-of-House/hairline-cracks-interior-walls-widen-or-paint-over/m-p/33605#M6608

Moose

Hi everyone!
Our frames have been stripped, cleaned, and primed with etch primer. From what I can see online, an enamel paint would be most long lasting. We have some low sheen acrylic white paint left from previous renovations, would this be ok to use as a base coat, to save costs on the amount of enamel needed?

Kermit

Probably not the time to be cutting corners @Moose seeing that you've put a lot of time and money into this project. Stick with a couple of coats of high gloss for a brilliant result.

Jason

I'm sure I'm not the only community member curious about how your wardrobes are now looking @Moose.

Would you please be able to share an update with us? It would be fantastic to see what you have done.

Many thanks,

Jason

Child Item