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How to revive patchy lawn and keep grass out of garden beds?

jo94

Hi @Bunnings,

I’m looking for some expert advice on a front yard makeover project. I have sketched out the layout with measurements and uploaded photos of the current state of my lawn and raised garden beds.

The total yard is roughly 63.5sqm, with the lawn taking up about 44.3sqm and the three timber garden beds totaling about 19.2sqm.

1. The Lawn Area (~44.3 sqm):

As you can see from the photos, the current lawn is in rough shape. It’s highly patchy, full of weeds, has large dead thatch spots which are thick as well, and is creeping into the garden bed borders.

Whats the best way to renovate should i remove the existing lawn and put in new rolls or just completely dethatch using a dethatching machine? If i need to remove and put in new grass, what are the steps, is it possible to diy as i dont have a lot of budget to get a landscapper.

Also the garden beds have this buffallo grass that has gone over and spread in them, how do i remove the roots in that and clean it up to plant something new so that the grass doesn't grow up inside the garden bed.

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EricL

Hello @jo94

Thank you for sharing your question about your lawn renovation. If you are after a quick turn around on the lawn, I suggest starting from scratch and removing your old lawn so that you'll have a uniform start. The general steps are to dig up the old lawn and removing any large stones or pebbles in the soil. I then suggest putting on some good garden soil before putting the lawn roll over the top.

I suggest having a look at these discussions:

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How To Lay Turf

In regard to the garden beds, I suggest removing the grass that has grown in them and adding a pebble barrier around them to serve as a barrier to prevent the lawn from growing close to them. As to what plants to put in, it will depend on what you prefer. My best advice is to look at draught resistant plants highlighted with succulents.

Here are some discussions that will help:

Let me call on our experienced members @suequarford, @timjeffries, @darylhewston and @EleventhCoastal for their recommendations.

I've placed a sample image using AI to give you an idea of what it could look like.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working on your garden.

If you need further assitance, please let us know.

Eric

ChatGPT Image May 24, 2026, 06_53_19 PM.png

jo94

Hi @EricL , would you be able to suggest which lawn is best for this area( Hammond Park, Perth) low maintenance, low watering needs, currently its I am guessing buffalo grass.. is that fine for new one as well?

EricL

Hello @jo94

Buffalo lawns are a fantastic all-round choice for Australian backyards. They’re known for being hardy, versatile, and especially good in shaded areas. Buffalo also keeps its colour well through winter and feels soft and comfortable underfoot, making it great for families and outdoor living. That said, if your main priority is handling constant heavy foot traffic, Kikuyu or Couch may be better options, as they tend to be tougher, recover more quickly from wear, and cope better during dry conditions.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

jo94

@EricL , thanks for the help one more question, is there any way i can recover it without completely removing and putting new turf like scalping and detatching at this time of the year in perth and may be only putting turf where its completely gone?

EricL

Hello @jo94

Looking at the condition of the lawn in the first and second photos, I do believe recovery is possible without completely removing and replacing the turf, however it is important to set realistic expectations that it will take time, consistency and patience. The lawn still has a reasonable amount of viable green present, which means the root system is still active in many areas and capable of recovering. The issue appears to be a combination of drought stress, compaction, hydrophobic sandy soil, thinning from heat stress and a heavy build-up of dead thatch material rather than a completely dead lawn.

That said, recovery will not be quick, especially at this time of year in Perth when turf growth naturally slows. This is why my original suggestion leaned toward starting again from scratch, because a full renovation with new turf provides a much faster and more uniform result. Recovering the existing lawn can absolutely be done, but it is more of a medium-term process and the lawn may still look patchy for some time while it fills back in naturally.

Rather than fully scalping the lawn, I would recommend a lighter dethatch or scarify to remove the thick brown layer of dead material and open the surface up for airflow, water and nutrients. The stores options are the https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-one-18v-brushless-cordless-scarifier-osf1835bl-tool-only_p0250384 and the https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-pxc-36v-2-x-18v-350mm-brushless-scarifier-pxscs-0182-skin-only_p0410872 range. The goal would not be to strip the lawn bare, but instead to thin the thatch layer enough for the healthy runners underneath to spread again.

Aeration would also make a significant difference, particularly in Perth’s sandy soils where lawns commonly become compacted and water-repellent. A core aeration pass using something like the https://www.bunnings.com.au/cyclone-soil-and-lawn-plugger_p0643304 or https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-all-steel-spiked-aerator_p0131548 from Bunnings would help improve water penetration and root development. Once aerated, a light topdress can be worked into the lawn to improve levelling and soil condition without smothering the remaining grass. https://www.bunnings.com.au/scotts-lawn-builder-20l-levelling-mix_p0938167 is currently available through Bunnings and is specifically designed for filling low spots while improving drainage and lawn recovery.

The dry patches visible in the photos strongly suggest the soil has become hydrophobic, which is extremely common in WA lawns. A wetting agent would therefore be one of the most important steps in the recovery process. https://www.bunnings.com.au/lawn-builder-4kg-scotts-wetting-agent-lawn-food_p2962048 is currently stocked at Bunnings and combines slow-release fertiliser with a wetting agent to improve water penetration and encourage deeper root growth. Products such as https://www.bunnings.com.au/seasol-2-x-2l-hose-on-super-soil-wetter-and-conditioner-twin-pack_p2990055 or https://www.bunnings.com.au/richgro-10kg-ezi-wet-soil-soaker_p0164631 are also currently listed through Bunnings and can help address water repellency issues.

For the sections that are completely dead, you do not necessarily need to replace the entire lawn. Spot repairs using fresh turf pieces in only the worst affected areas would be a practical and cost-effective approach. The surrounding healthy grass should gradually knit together with those repaired sections over time, particularly once temperatures rise again in spring.

Overall, I would estimate that a large portion of the lawn is still salvageable, but it is important to understand that recovery will likely take several months to achieve a dense, uniform result. If the priority is achieving a perfect lawn quickly and evenly, then full replacement is still the cleaner and faster solution. If you are comfortable with a slower process and some temporary patchiness while the lawn repairs itself, then rehabilitation is definitely achievable with dethatching, aeration, wetting agents, topdressing and selective patch repairs rather than starting completely from scratch.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

jo94

Hi @EricL , as mentioned earlier there is also some heavy weed growth, can you suggest me a weed killer as well. As well as something that i can use to kill the buffalo roots inside the garden bed as there as lot would be easier to remove them once dead, without harming future planting?

EricL

Hello @jo94

There is no specific selective herbicide available to kill just the buffalo grass while leaving other lawn varieties or plants completely untouched. Because buffalo is a grass species, any chemical that kills it will also kill couch, kikuyu, and other turf types. To eliminate buffalo lawn completely, you have to use manual removal.

Eric

jo94

@EricL this is to kill the excessive growth of invasive buffalo roots and runners inside the garden bed and to clear it to plant other draught tolerant plants inside the bed.

And another weed killer for weeds in the buffalo lawn area

2 seperate ones.

MitchellMc

Hi @jo94,

For weeds in the Buffalo lawn, you can use https://www.bunnings.com.au/yates-weed-n-feed-10kg-buffalo-lawn-weed-killer-and-lawn-fertiliser-granular_p0902418 .

Unfortunately, as the buffalo runners are part of the lawn, any poison you use to kill them will be taken back into the lawn and will kill it too. The mainstay of protected garden beds from intrusive runners is to install a barrier to prevent their access. In your case, with the runners still penetrating the sleepers, you might need to dig down at the edge of the beds and install https://www.bunnings.com.au/jack-600mm-x-5m-garden-root-barrier_p3320633 .

You could use Zero to kill the buffalo in the beds, but be careful as it will kill everything else it touches too, and if these runners go back to the lawn grass, that lawn section as well.

Though tedious, manual removal is likely the best solution here.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

R4addZ

Hi @jo94

Just a suggestion, do the lawn cleanup first and following the light dethatch, if you have any bare areas, use runners from the garden beds and transplant them to the bare areas to speed up the grow back time.

MitchellMc

That's actually an excellent idea from @R4addZ, @jo94. Pull the runners up and then cut them off once you've got some of the root tendrils on the bottom of them. The runner can be cut into sections provided each has some roots on it, as per the AI-created image I've added below. Place them on the prepared soil and add some soil mix over the top to help hold them down. Ensure you do not cover over the grass blades with the soil. With regular watering they should take hold in a couple of weeks.

Mitchell