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How to fix gaps in my timber benchtop?

NicoleDIY

I am in the process of sanding back and revarnishing my timber kitchen. Beside the induction cooktop, there is a gap either side where there was clearly previously a larger induction cooktop. I’m looking for suggestions for timber that I can cut to size and fit in the gaps that will take a walnut stain. I’m pretty sure the current benchtop is teak. Any suggestions on what timber to buy and how best to secure it would be appreciated.

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JacobZ

Hi @NicoleDIY,

Matching timber stains perfectly is very difficult, particularly when you are trying to match a new piece of timber to an existing benchtop. Even with a similar timber species and stain, differences in the grain, natural colour and age of the timber can make the repair quite noticeable. Personally, I don't think a stained timber infill would give you the best-looking result here. You could certainly try, but noting the struggle matching timber stains and that the grain direction of any timber used in that gap would be perpendicular to the grain on the benchop, I'm relatively certain it would stand out.

If you were to use timber, I'd say you need to lift the cooktop out of place so that you can screw the timber into the side of the opening. Alternatively, if you had access beneath the benchtop, you could attach a backer piece to the underside, then glue the timber infill piece to the backer.

If you can advise how wide the gap is, I could certainly offer some recommendations for timber to use.

In saying this, I'd be more inclined to use a completely different material, such as aluminium flat bar, so that it looks like an intentional trim rather than an attempt to disguise the gap. Using a different material altogether won't look like you're trying to blend it in, which in some cases, looks better.

Does your kitchen have metal cabinet handles, tile trims or any other finishes that you could match? For example, if you have brushed aluminium or stainless-look handles, using a similar finish for the cover strip could tie everything together and make it look like a deliberate part of the kitchen rather than an afterthought.

Allow me to tag @Dave-1, @TedBear and @pete_brig to see what they think.

Jacob

Dave-1

Good Morning @NicoleDIY

Thats a hard one, as @JacobZ mentions matching the timber grain and colouring will be problematic. I am thinking of the direction of the grain as well so you will end up with a thin wide grain and will be attaching it in the weakest way (Glue and screws is how I would do it but the timber width will only be 30-40mm wide all up so liable to splitting.

I was trying to think ways around it, A supporting piece of timber underneath that is wider and screwed and then attach the "most matching piece" you have would be a stronger way. Once you have matched the grain as much as possible then I would sand back all the bench and stain it. It would make for a less noticble transition.

Alternativly, I was thinking of the timber support but with two strips of smokey heat treated glass (bought and cut from a glazier) installed next to the glass topped stove. I would check for specifications of the new stovetop first to see if iots possible as sometimes there are clearances that need to be folowed.

Dave

Noyade

To my eyes the cut was made with a jigsaw and looks a little wonky on the right side, so even if you inserted wood you will need gap filler. What is that loose grey strip at the very top of your photo @NicoleDIY?

Can these induction tops be unplugged and easily lifted out? Like the comments above I would be looking for a metal 'shroud' around the induction top to cover the gap. It also looks proud of the wood top - just an illusion?

Keep us informed!

Cheers.

NicoleDIY

Hi @JacobZ, @Dave-1, @Noyade thank you all for your suggestions.

The gap between the induction and the bench is about 41mm long on both sides and 2-3mm wide. As Noyade noticed, both gaps have been cut rather wonkily, so gap filler would be needed.

The piece of black in the photo is a length of rubber the previous owners had laying over the gap to hide it, but when you go the clean the counter it moves and crumbs fall into the cabinetry.

The cooktop is just plugged in and can be lifted up and out of the gap. There is also room inside the cabinetry to fit a piece of supporting timber. I’m not too worried about the timber being ultra sturdy either side, just needs to hold and block the gap.

We have brass cabinetry handles, so I think the aluminium flat bar would stand out and be harder to fit as the gaps aren’t completely straight.

I will be completely sanding back the benchtop before restaining. I’m not too worried about the grain running in the opposite direction, I know it would be a noticeable fix.

Let me know what you think in terms of the type of wood I should purchase for the gap and how to secure it.

Appreciate all your advice!

JacobZ

Hi @NicoleDIY,

Assuming you mean 41cm long and 2-3cm wide, I'd suggest using something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/42-x-19mm-2-4m-dar-pine-premium_p8401458?store=7373&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21122993677&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuMHNlpfClgMVPDaDAx2UTypUEAQYAyABEgLZY_D_BwE and attaching it by lifting and removing the cooktop, then screwing it into the side of the benchtop so that it sits flush with the top of the benchtop. You could try staining it with https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-watson-50ml-golden-teak-prooftint-interior-stain_p1569786 to better help it match the benchtop as it is currently, but if you are going to restain everything, just use the stain you are after.

For any gaps, you can use https://www.bunnings.com.au/timbermate-250g-pine-wood-filler_p1560693 which will match the new pine and accepts stains reasonably well. It will never look perfectly the same as the rest of the benchtop, but this should get you pretty close.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

TedBear

Hi @NicoleDIY , if this were my kitchen I wouldn't like to put effort into a fix that will look like a patch up.

I suggest that you extend the line of the front and back of your cook top of to each side, using masking tape.

Then remove the top and score a straight line along the full width of the top, just a little beyond the stinky cut

Dave-1

Good afternoon @NicoleDIY

Is it possible to slide the stove one way or the other so you only need to manufacture one piece?

Id choose a hard wood as a replacement patch as it wont match I would go for something thatmatches. I still prefer smoky tempered glass tho :) A glazier will be able to cut something that fits and also smooth the edges. It just needs to be tempered.

A stone offcut to rest hot items on may also work to cover it?

Dave

TedBear

Hi @NicoleDIY

if this were my kitchen I wouldn't put effort into a fix that will always look like a patch up.

I suggest that it will look heaps better if you make a full-width, glossy, black trim for each side of the cooktop out of the 19mm timber strip suggested by @JacobZ.

To do this you'll need to cut out a 19mm wide notch at each end. Most of that job is done because there is already a large hole there for the cooktop.

The method I'd suggest is:-

for each end of the cooktop, extend the line of the front and back of your cook top off to each side, using masking tape. Mark on this tape where the ends of your cooktop are.

Then remove the top and use a Stanley knife to score a straight line along the full front to back width (-1mm) of the top, just a mm beyond the wonky cut that's there, ensuring that this line is the same distance from the edge of the top at each end. (This will be used to tidy up the wonky lines, which would have been hidden under the original cooktop.) From that full-width line, score a short 19mm length line at both the front and back of the top. This short line will run from the ends of the scored line to just inside where the top normally sits. These lines will be along the masking tape (1mm in). If you score them deeply, they will prevent the top surface of the wood from shattering when you cut along those lines with a saw. Carefully cut out along those lines, using a jigsaw, guided by a straight length of wood.

You should end up with a space to push in a length of the 19mm wood to sit flush with the benchtop. You'll be able to screw it in from the inner edges. Before attaching, I'd paint them with a few coats of gloss black paint. Then they'll replace those gaps at each end, looking like an intentional feature and extend under the cooktop to support it and prevent crumbs etc from falling through.

Noyade

For me - I'd be heading to an engineering firm to cut a 'window frame' from stainless steel. Precise measurements from you will be required. Silicone this onto the bench - then insert your induction cooker top.

Question - is your bench-top solid wood or laminate?

NicoleDIY

@JacobZ @Noyade @TedBear @Dave-1 Thank you all very much for the advice. Lots of really great options to consider. Will keep you updated with what we decide to do. Appreciate all of your time and knowledge.

NicoleDIY

Hi @JacobZ, @Dave-1, @Noyade @TedBear thank you all for your suggestions.

An update for you - I ended up going with the pine timber pieces as the most budget friendly option for now. I’m really happy with the result.

TedBear

Thanks for sharing the end result @NicoleDIY. That has blended in well. You've created a good result.

Dave-1

Good afternoon @NicoleDIY

Wow! That has really blended well :) Nice work for sure!

Dave

EricL

Hello @NicoleDIY

Thank you very much for sharing that update. That repair to your bench top is very well done!

Eric