Worst DIY jobs you've had to do

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/1883#Comment_1883

Two jobs immediately come to mind that we had to do when we first moved into our 50s-era house. I remember spending a lot of time trying to remove wallpaper and glue residue which was not fun. I also remember spending a lot of time on hands and knees removing stapes from the floorboards after we ripped up all the floral carpet. Fortunately, modern wallpaper is easy to remove and no one staples carpet down anymore...

Jason

Deanna

@Jason OMG @ wallpaper! I remember my parents having to steam if off "back in the day"

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/63210#Comment_63210

Yes, I'm sure steamers have improved since then too @Deanna. The beast that we were using was very temperamental. Having boiling water dripping down your arm was not pleasant.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/94108#Comment_94108

I hope early 80's wallpaper is in the easy to remove group, bathroom and 2 feature walls to remove.

Personal bugbear is the crack in the kitchen/lounge room wall that resists all attempts to stay filled.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/113381#Comment_113381

Good luck @Brad, let us know how you go.

These videos might be handy...

[video]

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/124266#Comment_124266

wall

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131548#Comment_131548

Alarm may be interesting...

Aircon should come out the front once the power is disconected so I can leave the cover and fill inside.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/113381#Comment_113381

@Brad wrote:

Personal bugbear is the crack in the kitchen/lounge room wall that resists all attempts to stay filled.

@Brad, have I got it right that the problematic wall's an internal one? If so, is the crack closer to an end of the house, or more towards the middle?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/124267#Comment_124267

@Andy_Mann internal solid wall closer to an end than the middle.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131549#Comment_131549

@Brad, have you had a tree removed near that area?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135987#Comment_135987

@Andy_Mann no tree there or water pipes, even the fire place hasn't been used for 40 odd years.

Most damaging thing I can think of is it gets morning sun.

Kermit

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139041#Comment_139041

We've got a few stubborn cracks too @Brad. I thought it was because of the extended periods of hot/dry weather we've had in recent years, which made the clay soil under the house really dry and causing movement in the foundations.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141088#Comment_141088

@Kermit @Andy_Mann I suspect it is the drying out under the foundations, not helped by them being made to 1955 standards, the rooms with tiled floors have less movement and cracks.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142624#Comment_142624

@Brad, I'm trying to nut out the floor construction of the 1950s home where I was brought up which is not far from you, wooden floors throughout, except of course the bathroom. I'm thinking solid (not floating) concrete bathroom floor, which may add credence to your bathroom not exhibiting cracks.

Also, the foundations back then were wide & shallow, which has since proven to be misguided.

Your plot would be sandy loamish with some clay elements, which is mildly reactive, have provisions been made to assist drainage on that side of your home?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143711#Comment_143711

@Andy_Mann Our foundation is fairly high especialy by modern standards. Side path is under the top of the foundation and sloping away, maybe not as steep as best practice. Outside wall is straighter than the internal.

I may just need to woek out that it is stable and skim coat will fix one side and the dreaded no more gaps will cover the crack, once I have finished the kitchen!

BIM_Engineer

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/113381#Comment_113381

Hi brad

Photos do help, plus further information such as

1. Wall material eg, stud (steel or timber) /plaster, brickwork/plaster,etc?

2. is the wall a load bearing wall supporting the roof strut?

3. Foundation & soil type, reactive clay,sand rock etc

4. wind loading category, shear wall,etc,etc

First you need to identify the cause as you can see from the above there are many causes and it can also be a combination of the above and more.More info please

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/124270#Comment_124270

Many thanks for offering to provide your expertise @BIM_Engineer. I'm sure @Brad will appreciate it after he offers some more details.

Let me also again extend a very warm welcome to the Workshop community. It's fantastic to have you join us.

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131551#Comment_131551

Got a feeling I found the problem.

Gutter

Drips miss the chanel.

Moss against the foundation.

Not the best piece of foundation work around the house.

Slope of the block would make it a high point.

Once you get past the topsoil you hit clay and the water table is high.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135991#Comment_135991

Great news @Brad, that should be an easy fix by either extending the down-pipe, or adding a deflecter, or even easier, siliconing the gap between the concrete path & the foundation.

Fingers crossed you have it beat.

By the way, the gas mains in our street is being upgraded, & the guys dug a hole 50cm deep near our foundation for the new pipework, which exposed a few interesting facts.

The soil had only traces of clay, & though moist, was still friable, in that it didn't form a dense clump when compressed, like heavy clay soils do.

The other thing of note, is that our foundations were virtually laid on the ground surface (not dug in), & I suspect that your visually tall foundations, may be the same.

BIM_Engineer

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135991#Comment_135991

Hi Brad
Poor/Inadequate storm water disposal-> high water tables-> differential movement, etc,etc on reactive clays soils is a major problem you will need to deal with it accordingly
1.Contact your council technical engineering dept. find out if you are connected to the councils Storm water systems
2.Then you will need to go around your house to determine what storm water provisions you actually have in place
3.options are then connect to Council SW systems in which case you will need to provide most councils with a design or/& tank retention . BTW you may also need to put in an agricultural drain system ...my Engineering details are here
https://plus.google.com/u/1/communities/115195196112205285216

4. Do you have a perimeter concrete skirt around the rest of the house and what condition is the slab in ..any cracking?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139043#Comment_139043

@BIM_Engineer, @Brad & I live within an arm's throw of each other, it appears that he is relying only on his concrete perimeter pavement for roof collected water run off.

On re-evaluation of what I posted earlier, I suggest that @Brad install gravbity gradient run-off pipework to the council kerbing stormwater system. No paperwork is required here, & he'd certainly do a better job than our professionally fitted drains were (run uphill to kerb level, duh).

Your suggestion of an agricultural drain system is also valid, it was actually an engineering suggestion that we dig a trench around our house, & fill it with a gradient of infill, ranging from gravel at the base, to well draining sand at ground level. I foolishly didn't do it, but wish I had. 😳