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Metal frame loose and not attached firmly with shower glass door

Our shower glass door side edge has a "plastic cover/gasket", it gets a bit loose , also affecting the metal frame that cant attach to the glass door firmly

How should we tackle this?

Do we need some glue/ silicone :

1) to adhere the plastic cover to the glass door

2) second coat: adhere the plastic cover to the metal frame?

Please see the photo:

Love to hear your thought. Just found another issue left by previous occupants.

Really want to get it fixed.

Thank you so much for any advice.

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EricL

Hello @ivanptr

It looks like the aluminium trim that has the handle on it has come loose. To put it back into its original spot you will need to push it back in. The silicone sealer that is currently on the glass door is the wedge that holds the aluminium in place. I recommend starting from the top and see if you can push the channel back in working your way down. Please be careful of the glass door as it is only being held in place by the plastic shower hinge.

If you need more advice or information, please let us know.

Eric

ivanptr

Hi Eric, But the surprise is there is no sign of silicone sealer/ any kinds of adhesive under the plastic gasket (hinge) which explains why it becomes so loose. Even I push it back in.

I just bought :

1) Moroday high tack acrylic tape

2) Kitchen and bathroom Sika Seal

And still contemplating which product i should use to stick the plastic gasket back onto the glass edge.

EricL

Hello @ivanptr

I'm sorry to hear that it did not work. I've used the Moroday 18mm x 30m Clear Double Sided Hi-Tack Acrylic Tape before. I find that it is very strong and very sticky. Please remember to provide updates, our members are keen to see how it will look once you have the tape on.

Let me tag our experienced team members: @TedBear and @JDE for their recommendations.

If you need more advice and information, please let us know.

Eric

ivanptr

🙂 Its nice to see our choice of using Moroday tape got approved by the expert @EricL .

We love this product! actually we have used this to our garage when laying vinyl plank and convert it to a gym room. It has been 5 months. No drama! The flooring is completely fine with no movement / crack among those plank despite heavy weight lifting activities and foot traffic. This product is really reliable like you said! 🙂

ivanptr

@EricL The frame went loose again because a handyman fiddled with the frame when he was fixing another problem.

I am going to go to extremes using liquid nail and my 2 steps plan is:

Any painting tape you would recommend? And I would also need to buy some transparent liquid nail suitable for washroom too.

Thank you for any suggestion.

ivanptr

Hi @TedBear and @JDE , really love to hear your thought on this. As these days our local handymen have been really busy and dont have time to fix the issue so we need to do it ourselves.

Noyade

Hoping ya having a Happy New Year Ivan.

Being an amateur - to me - the problem seems to be that both the corner connections are at fault and not so much the length of the glass door edge. As you say, there is no manufacturer's silcone present, nor should there be if the corners are rock solid - well, that's my logic anyway.

Any chance of getting better, high resolution photos of the corners - in particular that black 'dowel' like object?

Any sign of missing screws or pop rivets?

Otherwise a trip to Bunnings - have a look at their door construction and see the plumbing expert or visit a shower specialist - for advice.

JDE

Ivan

Looking inside the channel that has come off. Is it the same all the way up or has it been reamed out where it matches up with the black dowel? Also is there a hole in the channel lining up with the dowel, either big enough for dowel only and or smaller in the middle. If channel has been reamed out at ends and there is enough depth is it possible it should overlap the top and bottom channel in which case a poprivet could hold it making sure to miss the glass. More likely is was originally just a pressure fit on the side and dowel. You might be able to drill a small hole through the edge in line with the dowel from inside out through outer channel so when you do up screw it pulls edge in and expands dowel in top. Or just push the edge into place and put two small screws one through the edge and one through the top so they go into the dowel (probably easier) and repeat at bottom. Make sure you use stainless screws so they don't rust and touch up paint , cotton wool buds work great. Just a suggestion a picture of the inside of the ends of the side channel would help. JDE

MitchellMc

Hi @ivanptr,

I'd have to agree with @Noyade and @JDE here. I don't believe you should need to glue the gasket or glass in place. It should simply pressure fit into position, and the frame holds everything in place. It appears, as @Noyade has mentioned, that the black corner fitting at the top is coming apart, allowing everything to fail. Either the black fitting has some type of dogtooth that has snapped, or a screw is missing. That black fitting needs to be secured somehow into the other frame, and if you can work out how to do this, you'll fix your issue.

Given the issues you've experienced, I'd be tempted to drill through the frame and black fitting and either pop-rivet or screw them together.

Mitchell

TedBear

Hi @ivanptr , just a quick chime in... I agree with the advice & thoughts of @MitchellMc @Noyade & @JDE .

Liquid nails is only good for non-flexing joints. The glass in the door will naturally flex during normal use, so the frame will need be able to flex also, therefore the recommendations of screwing or pop rivetting the corner connection would be the safest options.

MitchellMc

@ivanptr,

Just musing further and never willing to pass up an opportunity for a good rendering, I suspect the top rail likely needs to be removed first, and the gasket/panel put back into position. The top rail would then be pushed back down into position to lock everything in place. Perhaps the black fitting is just so worn now that it won't clip into position and keeps pulling back out. Does it seem worn at all? If so, screw it into place, but mind the glass panel.

Mitchell

ivanptr

@JDE @Noyade @TedBear MitchellMc

Feel touched and so thankful for all the advice. Really appreciate it.

We have been wrapping our heads around this for a long time.

Now we realize the issue is that the corner does not have enough space for the metal edge.

MitchellMc, allow us to ask a beginner level question (havent done this before..!)

This is the tools we have:

Our plan :

1) Use pencil to mark the point to ensure the screw can get through both the metal and black fitting, without missing the fitting.

2. Open a hole using the titanium drill bits (Starting with the smallest one)

3. Screw through the hole.
But what kind of screw should we get from Bunnings for this kind of bathroom shower door repair..?

Any suggestion?

4. How do we prevent the screw from falling off over time?

Or should use this combo instead of Screw : Bolt + Loctite Threadlocker

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pn3C5QVcu0

---

Thank you guys again for all the great advice.

MitchellMc

Hi @ivanptr

These white button head screws look like they'd do the job. Just select a length that will go through the upright post and the black insert, but that isn't so long that it penetrates the other side. Perhaps something like the Zenith 8G x 20mm White Button Head Screw or Zenith 8G x 30mm White Button Head Screw. Alternatively, using a stainless steel screw would provide the best anti-rust properties. You'll need to paint their head white to blend in, though.

I'd suggest marking an appropriate location on the upright post, returning the frame fully to the correct position (take note of my rendering above if the black fitting is stubborn) and then drilling through both the post and black insert simultaneously. Use the screw to hold the frame in position.

The screw shouldn't fall out over time, but you could use a Pinnacle M3 x 50mm Stainless Steel Hex Head Bolt And Nut. With the bolt, you'd drill through the entire post and fix the nut on the rear side. Loctite isn't essential but could assist with locking the nut in position.

Mitchell

Noyade

"never willing to pass up an opportunity for a good rendering"

Keep'em coming - they're excellent! 👍

ivanptr

Hi @MitchellMc ,

Not too sure if we are capable of returning the frame to correct position but we will definitely give it a try ..!

Found a video we took last time :

https://youtube.com/shorts/9j4HzPmGxJU?feature=share

signal-2022-01-03-23-38-01-171 (1).png

On another note, if our memory serves us right, we couldnt find the black insert at the bottom last time we visited the property

If this is the case , that means we could only drill one bolt at the top corner to secure the frame, instead of two..!

Do you think we could use hybrid approach?

One bolt + A few drops of gorilla super glue gel near the bottom

Or it will be a bad idea?

MitchellMc

Hi @ivanptr,

I apologise. I've drawn those renderings as if it was the corner of the shower instead of the trim on the door. However, the same principle applies. You need to fix the black inserts back in.

If there is no black insert at the bottom, what would you bolt through? Does the horizontal piece insert into the side trim?

Mitchell

Noyade

"However, the same principle applies."

Agreed Mitchell. Those 'black connectors' are what holds the frame together.

I know little about shower glass - tempered? Will it shatter into a thousand pieces if struck with a high speed drill?

"we couldnt find the black insert at the bottom last time we visited the property"

The story gets worse Ivan! 🙁

Next visit - if it were my property - photograph or remove the remaining 'black connector' and show it to a shower-screen specialist - they may have replacements or at least advise you about possible repair.

MitchellMc

"Will it shatter into a thousand pieces if struck with a high speed drill?" Highly likely, @Noyade. Great care should be taken to avoid it.

Mitchell

ivanptr

Just want to update you guys :

It turned out "the remark that frame was very loose" by the manager was not true, and the handyman really did the thing you guys mentioned, he put a screw in at the top corner. Regretfully, the bottom black insert was missing so he couldnt put a second screw. BUT*, with the previous Moroday 18mm x 30m Clear Double Sided Hi-Tack Acrylic Tape I used last time, the frame is now 95% solid even without the second screw at the bottom corner.

Only sticky Acrylic Tape = 70% solid

Sticky Acrylic Tape + One screw = 95%

Basically this solved the problem and we no longer need to be concerned about safety hazard in case of the frame falling off.

Love you guys for sharing so much knowledge about shower door.

EricL

Hello @ivanptr

I'm glad you managed to fix the shower. I'm sure @MitchellMc, @TedBear, @Noyade and @JDE will be happy to see the results. If you have any other questions you need help with, please let us know.

We look forward to seeing your next project.

Eric

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