What is the best and most cost-effective material for a trailer?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/16061#Comment_16061

hi @Monument

Before adding any additional material to the trailer the first question I will ask is what is the maximum weight the trailer can carry.? You will need to keep in mind what ever material you use and the weight of that material will reduce the maximum carrying capacity. This trailer looks like an extremely lightweight and designed for one thing, to carry a bike. If you can add more weight without reducing the trailers performance I would look at aluminium checker plate which can be cut to size from the local aluminium supplier and at a guess will be a bit lighter than formply, no sealer required. Also the local supplier can tell you the weight per square metre of the checker plate which you can compare weights of other materials

anchoring the material to the trailed will become a whole new ball game. what are your thought on anchoring the material to the trailer?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/70611#Comment_70611

Thank you for your response - it is very much appreciated. The load capacity of the trailer is 300kgs. The Bike weighs approx 200kg. In addition to providing a surface area on bothe sides of the central channel I was intending to fix a lockable galvanised toolbox with dimensions approx 1000L x 360W x 390H. This is not essential but desirable.

In terms of anchoring that is a matter that I am not knowledgeable about. I would also be anchoring a wheel chock at the end of the channel. I am interested in your suggestion of the Alu checker plate on either side of the channel.

Any info of the best anchoring methods for the relevant material would be much appreciated.

Cheers.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/16061#Comment_16061

Thanks Mitchell. If you could refer to my reply to the response below - if you have any applicable info please let me know. Thank you for your help.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/70613#Comment_70613

Hi @Monument,

I'd presume wielding the checker plate to the frame would be a solution. For timber, you could use U-bolts that fix around the frame which would be preferable to bolting into it. Since this appears to be an ultralight frame, any holes you drill into it could compromise its structural integrity.

For more specific information on altering the trailer, it might be perhaps best to contact the manufacturer.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/98442#Comment_98442

Unfortunately the trailer is made in France. A local business just assembles and sells them. I don't have any welding experience so will have to think about that.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/115964#Comment_115964

Hi @Monument

It's great that you've received fantastic advice from @r23on and @MitchellMc. I recommend considering the U-bolt assembly method if welding is not an option. However, it is critical that you get the balance right, any uneven addition to the trailer's center of gravity could cause undesirable results while using it.

Let me tag our experienced members @TedBear and @royq for their thoughts on modifying your bike trailer.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/70611#Comment_70611

Hi @Monument , I lean toward @r23on's thoughts on this.

I would be considering aluminium expanded mesh as floor for many reasons: it is light and strong, will allow air through (reduced drag), allow water through (won't get heavy in rain), won't rust. But you would need to get it cut to size and create a frame for it out of aluminium channel. Consider getting the floor made by a supplier, it may be cost effective and be the right strength. Not knowing where you are, if you paste the following into a search box it will show you suppliers around Australia:-

aluminium expanded mesh trailer floor. Australia

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/98441#Comment_98441

Hi @Monument

I was reading @TedBear comments interesting concept did not give any thoughts to that method. Depending on the strength and wall thickness of the trailer frame and depending on the method you chose there are a number of solution to anchor the material to frame work.

You have 200Kg to play with.

Possible solutions :-

What is the trailer made of?

1. weld brackets to the frame and mount the tool box to the brackets

2. as suggested by @MitchellMc formply or AA marine ply

3. as suggested by @TedBear expanded mesh

4. checker plate as suggested by myself

5. C channel cut to length mounted horizontal from frame to centre channel and mount the box on them.

Mounting the selected material :-

for the Aluminium checker plate / expanded mesh

1. Weld if the frame is Aluminium would be good.

2. U-clamps

3. I would use rivet nuts if the frame wall is suitable, then the floor is bolted to the frame via the nuts. The tool box bolted to floor

If the nuts are well spaced there will not be any structural problems.

For the ply:-

1. U-clamps

2. Rivet nuts and bolt the material to frame, but be warned if the nuts are not install correctly they will spin when the bolt is tightened.

As a point of interest rivet nut are used in many heavy industrial situation not just sheet metal.

If you are keen enough and want to calculate the weight of the Aluminium plate here is a site for the weight calculation

https://westberg.com.au/metal-weight-calculator/

Also a video of how the nut rivet works

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D3oA_AvWh8

Bunnings is a supplier of the Kingcrome version

The chock is not an issue that is an easy solution and can be dealt with later

If you use the checker plate and the rivet nuts there will be a couple of steps you will need to follow of which I will go into if you chose that method.

Hope this helps with your selection of material

Just an update here is another site Action Aluminium Catalog with all the calculation and weight factors for your interest

https://www.actionaluminium.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/AA-A4-2020-Catalogue_FULL_101019-EMAIL-PDF.pdf

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/115967#Comment_115967

A Lot of info to take in there!! Thank you.

The trailer is made of galvanised tubular steel and to amend earlier info the load capacity is 240kg not 300kg. So I only have 40kg to play with to provide surface areas either side of the channel and mount a toolbox (not essential). If welding was necessary I could only afford a chep Arc welder and I have never welded before.

I don't know what rivet nuts are.

I am likely to receive the trailer 2 days before I need to make a 4 hour round trip for a race day so need to be clear in my mind which material I should use and fit. I think the welding option is just a bit risky for a novice. I don't want a large toolbox flying off at 100km/h!!!

Narrowing the best option down would be great.

Cheers.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/125946#Comment_125946

@Monument , Now, I just revisited your original photo and see that the trailer already has all you need to carry the bike, it is just the toolbox that you need to accommodate. The trouble with adding a toolbox is that it would have to mounted on one side and that would upset the balance of this lightweight trailer, that is purpose built just for the bike. Is there a possibility of getting a saddle bag that the tools could go into and place that over a central bar on the bike itself? That way you could load it evenly for the journey. Otherwise I would recommend not tampering with the original design of the trailer.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/115967#Comment_115967

Thanks @r23on for that link on nut rivets. I haven't seen those, so that's something I will look into for my own interest. (As you may see from a further comment, having re-examined the situation, I now don't recommend tampering with that trailer design.)

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/132643#Comment_132643

I don't need the toolbox but I do need flooring. Loading a 200kg bike down the central channel without being able to walk along next to it at the same level is very awkward. So I will have to choose one of the options put forward in that respect.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/136730#Comment_136730

from what i can see in the photos there are some holes in the frame work for some flooring. the flooring shown on the web site shows a long strip of possibly wooden flooring approx 500mm wide???? the full length of the trailer bolted to the frame work, so I am assuming by the photos the holes are in place, but as stated there is no clear closeup. with what I have seen I would be still going down the rivet nut track if the mounting holes are not in place as you do not have to drill through both sides of the tube.

plus I am assuming the flooring shown in the photo is optional. i think a phone call to the supplier is in order for clarification.

The checker plate or mesh would be the better options having a more non slip protection in the wet.

I can only find one supplier and they are in Perth WA

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139539#Comment_139539

Thanks @r23on I talked to the supplier about the photo showing flooring and he said the buyer added that but he didn't know what material it was other than wood. I have ordered the rivet nuts and tool. Can you pass on the name of the supplier of the checker plate/mesh please? Cheers.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141452#Comment_141452

any aluminium supplier can help you what state are you in and there are a few that I know off

i gave a link to action aluminium catalog which has all the location and phone numbers at the back of the catalog

capral aluminium are in all states 1800258646 give them a call

I think Bunnings carries the mesh but not 2mm checker plate and cutting to size may be an issue at Bunnings. But I am sure one of the Bunnings people will come up and advise correctly

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142882#Comment_142882

@r23on I'm in Perth.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143882#Comment_143882

action aluminium is out of the question then try capral 1800258646 other than that you will need to do a search for a local supplier

best of luck when you get the rivet nut send me a pm I will give you a bit more detail on using the nuts the size of nut is important to the size of tube

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143882#Comment_143882

when you send the pm I will need to know what the out side diameter of the tubing please have that info so i can give you the best size nut to use

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143882#Comment_143882

@Monument now that I understand why you want the floor, I suggest using steel or aluminium floor grating
It is often used for steel steps, so that width will likely be good for standing on while attending to the bike, as well as low maintenance, wind drag, water pooling and affordable. You should be able to attach them with long U bolts to go around the frame.
The following websites are suppliers in Perth that will be able to give you a quote for floor mesh cut to required length.
https://www.totalsteel.com.au/perth.html
Or try
https://www.maddingtonconcrete.com.au/products/galvanised-steel-channel-drain-grates

Alternatively, go back to the marine ply suggestion, making 2x 300-400 mm wide "running boards". Screw a timber strip underneath on both sides of the front and rear cross frames, so the boards can't slide back and forth. They will also reinforce the boards there so you can sink the heads of bolts (with washers) that go down through short steel plates (or angle iron) running under the frame to lock it all in place.

(Just trying to keep it cost effective.)

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144664#Comment_144664

@TedBear I have purchased the nutsert set. Do you think Aluminium checker plate will be too heavy for the flooring on this particular trailer?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145227#Comment_145227

If you have a look at the back of the Action Aluminium catalog link provide you will find the checker plate will come in around 4kg The weight of 2mm aluminium sheet is 5.4Kg m2 a sheet of 12mm 2400 x 1200 formply weighs around 19kg with out knowing the length and width of your needs a good guess is around the same as checker plate difference one will last longer than the other. I would use formply over and above AA marine ply as t still needs to be sealed.

as a point of interest drag, the following needs to be taken into account:-

Drag Coefficient

Cd = Fd / 1/2*p*V^2*A

Where Cd is the drag coefficient
Fd is the force due to drag
p is the density of the fluid
v is the velocity
A characteristic frontal area of the body (m2)

Given the design and shape of the trailer the drag coefficient will be affected by the shape and aerodynamics of the tow vehicle the combined weight of trailer and tow vehicle plus the fluid density (the density of air on the day of travel) Given the trailer has no large front to prevent free air flow drag will be so small regardless of what you put as flooring. At a guess the air flow over you vehicle would drop at the back of the trailer. Regardless of which method you use drag is subject to the above. This also applies to all forms of motorised racing.

Which rivet nut set have you obtained?

I hope this helps in your decision as which method

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145680#Comment_145680

I got the nutsert set via ebay and the brand is Topex. From appearances and weight of the materials it appears to be suitable for the application.

I don't believe drag will be an issue. The trailer will be towed by a subaru wagon and any airflow would only pass by the bike. By design the bike is aerodynamic - it does not have rear view mirrors or anything else of the like to interrupt airfow.

I would be more concerned about the narrow track of the tyres at higher speed. They are only 4 x10 4 ply tyres so the foot print is very narrow.

The checker plate surprised me as to low weight so If availability is not an issue I will take that option up ( I approximate 350mm width on either side of the channel but I can't determine length. It appears the toolbox will fit and it won't be of sufficient weight to cause a centre of gravity issue.

I'll get back to you when I know the OD of the tubular frame and advise which size nutserts would be suited to fixing the plate and toolbox.

Thanks again.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145227#Comment_145227

@Monumentthat depends on how much you put on, but I doubt that 2 strips will be too heavy.

It has the advantage of being durable without needing any coatings and should be easy to fit with those Nutserts (although I haven't personally used them, but the idea looks great.)

And as you have already figured, the drag wont be a problem.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146023#Comment_146023

It really does not matter what brand of nut inserts you use they all do the same job accept for the really cheap ones, the wall thickness of the insert matters

centre of gravity requires both linear and angular momentum of weight through distance and I do not believe you are going to mount a tool box of any size above the height of the bike. Because the bike and trailer basically becomes one mass the formula to calculate centre of gravity is complex due to the varying shape of the combined mass.

I do not confess to understand all aspects center of gravity so I will leave it at that. feel free to research the subject.

The screws for the bolting down of the floor I suggest you use are stainless pan head toque or allan wrench head and the size will be subject to frame diameter. the other tools I suggest you have will be a step drill and centre punch. the step drill is for drilling the tube standard twist drills catch when drilling tube

https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-3-piece-step-drill-set_p0027584 these will do the job not the best quality but will pass

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146023#Comment_146023

Here is an interesting article on tyre foot print pressure, a bit of high school maths there may be some better tyres out there another cost is there someone in the racing area who could advise where or what

https://surjan.substack.com/p/16-weighing-a-car-with-tire-pressures

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146312#Comment_146312

@r23on , that was an interesting article on attempting to find weight by tyre pressure. The results seemed a bit academic in the end, given that the $12 weighbridge method was much simpler and more reliable, but fun to work on from a problem solving perspective. I think he should have used a more dynamic method and measured change in contact area against change is pressure. That way he could have ignored errors in measuring the actual tyre contact area (the error would be the same for both pressure measurements). But fun to contemplate, so thanks for supplying the link.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146023#Comment_146023

Hi @Monument , if your concern is about the bike tyres jumping out of the central track during the journey, can you simply tie them in using short tie-down straps?