Best straight edge guide for circular saw?

Hello @nieldy

The only items that come to mind are the https://www.bunnings.com.au/metal-mate-20-x-20-x-1-6mm-1m-galvanised-steel-square-tube_p1130463 or the https://www.bunnings.com.au/metal-mate-25-4-x-25-4-x-1-2mm-1-2m-white-aluminium-connect-it-square-tube_p1020507 both of which can be clamped with https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-300mm-quick-action-clamp-set-2-piece_p0919678 . I'm not entirely confident that the low-profile clamps will work with the tubes.

There is also the https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-1250mm-clamp-cutting-guide_p0916109 .

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @TedBear, @JoeAzza and @R4addZ for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @nieldy

Though I have a track-saw, there are lots of applications where it's not suitable. I just finished ripping a board down to make some custom depth shelving. My go-to straight edge is one of my several lengthen spirit levels. They are strong and dead straight and so have never seen the need to buy a purpose straight edge.

I do highly recommend though high-quality clamps because the cheaper ones can slip and spoil the cut. I have two of these Irwins. Not cheap but will last you for years and years.

Here's an example photo of me trimming the bottom of a door using a spirit level clamped as my straight edge.

Nailbag

R4addZ

Hi @nieldy

I'm in the same camp as @Nailbag, If it has a straight edge and can be clamped in place, it works for me!

Edited to add, I have even been known to build my own level!

Dave-1

Evening @nieldy

This has been something ive been trying to figure out as I want to rip down a whole bunch of decking boards (in half)

Pretty much what the guys have been saying is what I plan to do, Except I will probably use a 2.4m piece of angle iron as my guide. Plus make up some notches to screw to my bench seat so the pieces can lock in place.

So clamp the same way @Nailbag has shown.

Then for me I will be screwing an end piece of timber to my bench seat so I can run the saw along the guide and the timber piece I am cutting wont slide.

Dave

Hi @nieldy, I'm glad that you asked this question. I wasn't aware of the Craftright device before @EricL listed it as an option, so I am going to look at that for myself!

The easiest (to use) guide that I've made consists of a strip of Masonite (any thin flat, stiff board) abt 300mm wide and 1000mm long. I then measured the distance from my saw blade to the guiding edge of the saw. I added abt 30mm and screwed a slim, (to fit under the motor) straight timber strip along the length of the board at that distance.

I then clamped it to hang over my bench end a little and ran the saw along the timber guide to cut off the small excess. This then gives me an edge at the exact line where my cut will be and I can attach clamps to the outer edges of the thin board without them getting in the way of the saw motor. If your saw motor is long then you'd have to use a wider backing board to make sure the clamps are out of the way. If you aren't cutting very deep, the clamps can sit closer to the cut as the motor will be higher and go over the clamp ends.

The other advantage of this set up is that by being able to clamp from the side of the work, you can over-hang the guide at the starting end and then have a the saw sitting against the guiding strip before it reaches the work. No guessing if the saw is straight or not, as it's then guided straight in from the start. Also I don't need to measure each time as to where to put my guiding edge, as it's always set at the correct distance from the blade when I put the edge of my backing board along the line to be cut.

nieldy

Thanks all for your suggestions.

I think I'll try your suggestion @TedBear because the biggest issue I have is getting the clamps out the way of the tool (particularly the small circular saw, which only has around 2cm clearance), and your method makes a lot of sense for achieving that. I do have a 1200mm rule, but the clamps get in the way because it's too thick. Having a wide edge (300mm) will definitely help with that, and the slim strip for the offset is also a nice idea.

Prof

Hi nieldy..

For cutting sheets of material..I use something like this..

straight edge clamp and saw guide.

It's very quick and easy to set up..and suitable for edge in cut..

Prof…

MitchellMc

Hi @nieldy,

If you have an outlet nearby, you might like to see our friends over at Tool Kit Depot as they have a range of straight edge options, including the https://toolkitdepot.com.au/order-in-kreg-straight-edge-guide-1220-mm-kr-kma4500/ @Prof mentioned.

Mitchell

G'day @nieldy

"I'm looking to find the easiest way to cut straight edges without slipping."

I use thick aluminium tube - many different lengths. My spirit levels cost me a small fortune - so I would never use them as straight edges. I only work outside (if a nice day) and I added a 'bar' (around 1.8m) at the same level as the bench connected at both ends producing a chasm so that clamps can be placed behind the straight edge. I never use those spring/ratchet style clamps - wood is too costly.

Cheers!

Dave-1

Morning @Noyade

That is a brilliant idea! Tho need a workbench lol and sadly my garage I converted to a Library… mmmm Need to get digging under the house for a workshop!

Dave

Thanks again to @nieldy for asking this question and to @EricL for

suggesting the Craftright 1200mm Clamp https://www.bunnings.com.au%2Fcraftright-1250mm-clamp-cutting-guide_p0916109.

I had a look and bought one from Bunnings today. Pics attached, clamped at a few angles and one flipped to show the built-in clamps, slid up close to each other so they can fit in the pic. I like that the clamping action sits below the work to be cut. (I am not planning to actually saw through my outdoor table btw 🤡 ).

I'll now make 2 spacers with a width to match the distance from my saw blade to it's guiding edge so, as before, I don't have to keep measuring where to put the clamp/guide each time. This device will be great for those longer length cuts (or lightweight clamping) & the price was reasonable.

I tried one of those years ago @TedBear and they may have improved the design - but I found it buckled upwards when clamped, leaving a small gap between the aluminium and the work piece. I'd be interested to hear how you go.

Cheers.

Hi @Noyade, I haven't see signs of that, but then I haven't tried it in practice as yet. Hopefully they've improved the design. I'll let you know.

If anyone is interested, I have uploaded a pic of a version of the saw guide that I made for shorter cuts. This guide is set for the narrow side of the saw, which is why the white bit is narrow. (I wouldn't cut a long length this way.)

"I'll let you know." - @TedBear

Please do mate!👍️

Hi @TedBear

That short guide jig looks fantastic! Would it be possible to show the other side of the guide to get a full idea of how you put it together?

Thanks!

Eric

Afternoon @Dave-1

"That is a brilliant idea! "

Not my idea mate - I flogged the concept from a YouTuber. I use it mostly for routing as most cuts I do are with a large drop saw or table saw. But the rigs and jigs above do look interesting! 😁

Hi @EricL

The jig is very simple. Just 2 thickness of board clamped together. The bottom piece needs to have countersunk screw heads so it can sit flat in the work. I think the side view will show how it's made.

Hi @Noyade

I thought I'd better do a test cut using the Craftright sawguide having read your experience with one.

I chose a thin (scrap) board, to give max chance of flex in the job. It guided easily with no flexing in the middle. I think the channels at each side keep it pretty stiff. I

wonder if they were on the original that you had?

Hello @TedBear

Thank you so much for sharing those photos! It's a very clever jig and appears easy to put together.

Eric

I can't remember @TedBear. I think I bought it circa 2009?

But you've convinced me to try it again. 👍️

Afternoon @TedBear

I bought one this afternoon.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-50-aluminium-clamp-and-cutting-guide_p5860136

This isn't the product I bought many years ago but it's not much better. Yes, it doesn't flex upwards but in my humble opinion the problem with it is the ball and socket style flexible jaws that are supposed to accommodate angles up to 20 degrees.

You can mark and place it into position and use the "four stage" clamp.

But nudging it with a thumb or forefinger I can move it up to 5mm from the line - either way.

Maybe if I were using a light battery powered circular saw this wouldn't be a problem? But with say an 8 kg 230mm corded circular saw I'm absolutely certain the straight edge will move off line.

Hi @Noyade

Thank you for that quick product review!

Eric

Hi @Noyade, I guess if you don't use it beyond the test you've done, perhaps you can return it under Australian Consumer Law on the grounds that it doesn't perform the task as one could reasonably expect of it.

I am ok with it for my (domestic use) purposes. Mine clamped pretty firmly, but I did have to adjust the far end (where the clamp slides) firmly into place before pressing the main clamping end.

I like that I can set it up quickly at various angles and if necessary I'll add clamps as required to stop it slipping. My home-made simple guides also work ok for me, but for heavier work over that distance, I'd feel better with the more solid edge provided by this guide. I hope I haven't misled you on the usability of the guide.