I am trying to change the battery on the vt750 shadow and need to open up my front seat. The seat is screwed on with 6mm allen screws which are rusted and won't budge. I wanted to know if a more powerful drill might help and which brand to consider if it would
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @zeonjoseph. It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.
It is quite possible that a drill with more torque will assist. An impact drill would certainly have a better chance at removing the seized bolts than a drill driver. However, I would advise not using a drill under these circumstances due to the risk of burning it out.
Give the bolts a good soak with WD-40 and leave them for a few hours. When you come back, give the bolts a few good hits with a hammer to loosen any rust. I would suggest using either Kincrome 11 Piece 1/4" And 3/8" Drive Metric Hex Socket Set or for more torque the Kincrome 11 Piece 1/4" and 3/8" Metric Long Hex Socket Rail on a ratchet. You can also purchase a Kincrome 6mm 1/2" Drive 140mm Long Hex Bit Socket separately if you would like.
By using a socketed hex bit you will be able to put a higher amount of torque on the bolt than what a drill could apply. You can also then look at extension bars (or a piece of pipe) if a standard rachet isn't long enough.
Please let me know if you need further assistance or had questions.
Thanks for that. I will try out the WD40 first. I did see that idea of hits with the hammer. It does make sense but was worried about damaging the bolts. Some good options in here. Will give it a try and keep you posted. Thanks
Several light taps with a hammer might have been a better description. You certainly don't want to start deforming the bolt heads. Are you using a hex bit in the drill already? Instead of putting it in a drill can you attach an adjustable spanner to the bit? That would allow you to gently tap the end of the spanner with a hammer to encourage it to turn.
So far I tried just the bit by hand, adding the adjustable spanner and a small 3.6v driver but the bolt is too tough for either of these. I know this was the case about a year ago and I had to tow the motor bike to a workshop who were able to open it with power tools.
Hoping the wd 40, a few hammer taps and the impact drill does the job.
I'd try tapping the end of the adjustable spanner as in the picture I've taken below. I'm sure some experienced members will cringe at this, as it does do some damage to your spanner. It won't destroy it but it's not good to do it excessively as it causes play in the jaws.
Makita XGT 40v tools if you have an unlimited budget.
Milwaukee M18 Fuel on a budget and not much drop in power.
Hikoki also worth a mention.
Bosch, Festool and Dewalt can't match the power of the above tools.
Piece of pipe or RHS on an allen key was the old school way before cordless tools were practical.
I may cringe at using a hammer but I have been there too over the years.
As a point of interest there is the correct way and the wrong way to use an adjustable wrench. The correct way is for all the pressure to be on the back jaw and the sliding jaw should only be used to lock against the object. then the adjustable jaw will not be damaged. In the case the wrench is upside down. The pressure is on the sliding jaw.
"The seat is screwed on with 6mm allen screws"
That's a fair size to safely use some external elbow grunt. Rather than go down the "best power drill" path I'd try a dedicated 1/2 inch 6 mm allen socket with an extension bar. Prior to this, squirt some of the new WD 40 Penetrant spray first.