How do you dynabolt a metal frame to a concrete slab?

I am by myself and for stability I have erected the frame by temporarily slotting the sleeves into each other and it is stable on a level slab, but now I have to dynabolt the frame to the slab. Maybe I have gone about this backwards could you please advise me on further directions.

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G'day Martin @Martinb

I'm thinking the problem is you have the base perfectly positioned - but not enough room to drill the concrete with the traditional rotary hammer drill in the vertical position via the holes in the steel base?

Would something like the arrangement below assist in creating a "moon crater" in the concrete - so that you can move the frame later and drill with confidence? Of course you cannot use the hammer function in this scenario.

Just a thought.

Enough space for this?

Another thought.

Some angle-grinders with variable speed are provided with a chuck. More power in confined drilling.

Cheers!

Hi Noyade, good idea did not know such a thing existed. The only other idea I had was to move the frame slightly to one side drill the holes then move it back, then onto the next one. When all the holes are done move it back into position and put in the dynabolts...what do you think?

Afternoon Martin @Martinb

What size are the holes in those steel footing plates? 10mm?

I think we would both agree that in a perfect situation we would use those pre-drilled holes as a template for the SDS bit. That way we could easily drill eight perfectly aligned holes. But there is no space for the rotary hammer drill in a vertical position.

So I was thinking we could at least drill say 5mm into the concrete with one of the methods above - move the frame to the side - and feel confident drilling with an upright rotary hammer drill to whatever depth you require, knowing that the drill tip will not wander with the initial impact.

Otherwise if you mark eight centres with pen or pencil - move the frame and then expect to be able to drill eight perfectly centred holes, is a tough ask - it certainly would be for me!

Or maybe at least - with your method - use a pointed cold chisel and try to hammer a small crater - dead centre in each hole, hopefully preventing the drill tip from wandering.

Whatever you do - I wish you luck and please let us know how you get on. 👍

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's marvellous to have you join us, and thank you for sharing your question about Dynabolts.

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Noyade. If you plan on moving the frame it's important to make sure that your mounting holes are in the correct position. I recommend putting the frame together first so that you get a true square finish. To give the frame a rigid stance, I suggest using ratchet straps to simulate the frame being screwed together.

Because you are very close to the edge of your concrete base, I recommend having a look at Ramset AnkaScrews and the Ramset Chemset systems. These mounting systems do not place any tension in the concrete and are therefore safe for edge or corner installations. Your shed frame looks very interesting, please make sure to post an update when you've completed your assembly. I'm sure our members will be keen to see what it looks like once you've installed the walls and roof.

Here is a handy guide to show you how the Ramset Chemset is installed:

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Thank you Eric,

I think I would still try and use the dynabolts, what Noyade said seems to be a good idea but I will be off my feet for a couple of weeks due to a procedure in hospital. sos I will think about what you both have recommended as they both have merits.

Thank you gentlemen for you great ideas.

Regards

Martin

Please take care and get well soon. Please let us know when you're ready to restart the project. We can pick up right where we left off.

Eric

Thank you Noyade for your advice. I am not sure if the frame is square, diagonally one is longer than the other but all of the girts are snug in their sleeves so there's no chance for corrective diagonal movement. Don't know what I have done wrong. any advice?

Thank you Eric, I have measured diagonally and one is longer than the other even though the girts are snug in there sleeves. Don't know what I did wrong...any advice?

Although you have the pieces snuggly fitted, there would still be a tolerance to the fittings. You might need a friend to assist, but I think you'll find there is still plenty of wiggle room to adjust the squareness of the frame. Grab yourself a rachet strap and place it between the uprights on the diagonal that is the longest. Crank down on the rachet strap to draw those corners together. Take regular measurements and stop when your diagonals are equal. Mark the Dynabolt locations with a felt-tipped marker, and then with your friend, drag the frame over 10cm so you can access the drill locations. Leave the rachet strap on whilst doing this otherwise the frame will spring back into the non-square position. Once you've drilled the holes, move the frame back and install the Dynabolts.

You'll find the frame is not square as when the spigots were welded on, they were likely a fraction of a millimetre off square, and this has then been exacerbated over the distance of the horizontal piece.

Be careful moving the frame, and take care not to injure yourself. Perhaps have a BBQ and invite some friends over to assist.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Hi Martin @Martinb

"but I will be off my feet for a couple of weeks due to a procedure in hospital"

Have you had the surgery? Hope it goes well or is going to go well, but you appear to be at the job site already?

@MitchellMcand @EricL 's advice on squaring up the frame is excellent.

Pondering your problem in the present heat - I now feel if I was in your exact situation I would now ignore all my 'advice' I typed above. Once 'I' have positioned the frame and corrected the diagonals - I'd be welding pre-drilled plates to each corner so my rotary hammer drill has free unadulterated access, and to hell with the other holes. I would also be using concrete bolts.

I like @MitchellMc 's barbecue idea! 😁

Speedy recovery!

Hi Mitchell,

That is a good idea with the ratchet straps I will try that and let you know how it goes ok thanks mate.

Regards

Martin

Keep us updated @Martinb, and I hope you have a speedy recovery after your hospital visit.

Mitchell

If I had a welder that would be fantastic. I have had the surgery, which was good, but have to stay off my feet for 7 - 10 days...unfortunately.

Thank you Mitchell, is it best to have the ratchets near the bottom where the poles are or half way up?

If you have an extra set of ratchets place one set near the bottom and one set near the top. Your goal is to simulate the effect of the poles being screwed together. However, before you begin using the ratchet, I suggest double-checking that the poles are in the correct order and not switched around. In theory, the steel frame should be very square unless an error was made during the cutting process.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Hi EricL

I have both ratchets positioned about 30cm up from the slab and are both within about 20mm of each other. I checked to top cross poles and they are all 90 degrees with the down poles. My trouble is I have no one to help me move it over so I can drill the holes and my wife can't do it so I might have to drag it over bit by bit and hope it does not go out of square.

Great work @Martinb. Since you've now marked the holes, even if the frame goes out of square when moved over and back again, you should have the holes as a reference to square it back up.

I'd really encourage you to try and get someone to assist you in moving the frame. Any neighbours you could persuade with a six-pack of beer?

Mitchell

Hi MitchellMc,

My brother in law is going to give me some help but is pretty busy so I will just have to wait don't want to injure myself.Some of the holes are going to be 25-50mm from the edge, are there any strong glues that can be used that have almost the same strength as bolts?

Martin

@EricL mentioned above the Ramset AnkaScrews and the Ramset Chemset systems. These are excellent options when working close to an edge. I've added some technical information about the Ankascrews below. If these won't work, then you can glue threaded rods into the holes with the Chemset product.

Please let me know if you have further questions.

Mitchell

Hi MitchellMc,

I have screwed all the 10mm anka screws down into the 10mm holes but two are a bit loose and I have no idea why. The other 6 are screwed down tight is there any type of glue or fast drying liquid cement I can put in the hole then screw them in? I was thinking of putting the roof frame up while there is still some tolerance and then put some tek screws in or should I wait put the tek screws in for rigidity then the roof frame?

Ok I wrote the above post about 2 hours ago and have found out when checking the levels pout that on corner is 70mm out and other is 60mm out, all others are ok. I got a professional?? to do the slab and it appears to be not level

It's great to hear you are making progress @Martinb.

Remove the loose Ankascrews, squirt a small amount of Ramset 300ml Chemset UltraFix Plus in the hole, apply it to the thread of the screw, and re-insert. That will fill up any voids and glue the Ankascrew into position.

Regarding the Tekscrews, do the installation instructions call for them? If not, I'd be hesitant to install them as you might find it difficult to install the roof. Once the walls and roof are on, they should sure up the structure, and if not, you could always install the Tekscrews at the end of the build.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Hi Mitchell Mc,

Yes the instructions do require you to use the tek screws. Regarding the level I have some extra colourbond sheeting the same colour so that is what I probably will do. However the sides will have a slight slope to them and I am hesitant to use an angle grinder to cut them.

Thank you very much for the assembly update. I recommend doing a dry fit on one side to make sure that the panels line up so that you won't need to cut so much off. If you are hesitant to use a grinder there is always the option of using tin snips.

Please make sure to wear gloves and safety goggles when you start drilling and cutting on your steel shed.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the walls come up on your shed.

Eric

Hi MitchellMc

I only have one loose anka screw, so its not worth buying some Chemset, so I was thinking of using some heavy duty liquid nails putting it in the length of the screw then putting some dry concrete powder all over the liquid nails and screwing it in. Would that work, would it fill in the gaps?

Regards

Martin

That would probably work @Martinb. It won't be as strong as the Chemset, but it will stop the screw from being loose.

Mitchell

MitchellMc,

Other than the Chemset is there anything else that could be used instead of my concoction?

Martin

Not that's recommended by Rasmet @Martinb. You could possibly use some Concremate. Apply it liberally to the thread and a little to the hole's walls, and reinsert your screw. This product expands as it cures, hopefully locking the Ankascrew in place. I would be happier with this solution than the Liquid Nails.

Let me mention @Brad to get his thoughts as he's a big fan of this product. We've both seen some impressive demonstrations done with it.

Mitchell

I would go with Concretemate.

I interesting frame set up, I take it you can choose the location for the door and then cut the frame to fit?

Going to be a challange to get the roof frame fitted.

Hi Mitchell, Eric & Brad,

Is it critical that everything is 100% level the reason I ask is that the guy who did the slab didn't do it level and one side is about 60mm out with the other side 70mm out. Now the 50mm frame slides into a a 45mm sleeve and can be adjusted up. The 60mm is pretty true but the 70mm is not quite 100% level. I'd say about 90-95%. Does it have to be exact or is there room for movement? I will post some photos tomorrow ok Ok It was a strange question, of course it has to be level, just have to work out a way to do it as both levels are about 35mm above the end of the sleeve. Would you recommend welding some more 50mm onto the existing 50mm?

Martin70 mm out70mm outright is 70 out left is 60 out70mm level60mm levellevel inbetween 70 & 6060 mm out

Hi Brad,

Yes you can choose the location for the door then cut the frame to fit it. I am hope full of my friend helping me get the roof frame fitted, I assume that it would be better to fit the roof frame while there is still some tolerance then screw it into position?

Regards

Martin

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