The Wood screws dislocated from the wall. Should the gap be filled again with cement, drilled and fixed. (or) any alternative fixtures are available to prevent this from happening again. Reckon due to the wind pressure the door is frequently getting pushed for above event to happen. Could you please list the materials for resolving this.
Intent to replace below lock mechanism with door lock that can be accessed from both sides of the gate. Can you please propose any suitable two way door lock and ways to close the holes in the gate (if that is exposed) after fixing the two way lock.
By the way, please propose suitable paint and tools (I'm paining for the first time) to touch up the scratches that were left over due to be movement of the dislocated gate.
I'd recommend you switch out the timber screws and plugs for Dynabolts. They'll provide a stronger hold than the plastic plugs. You'll need to enlarge the holes to allow the Dynabolt head to enter the post and fit it into the wall. I'd suggest at least three Countersunk Dynabolts holding the post to the wall.
We have a range of gate locks for you to choose from. Something like this LokkLatch gate lock could work well. This gate lock can be accessed and locked/unlocked from either side of the gate. Ideally, you should position the new lock to cover as many holes as possible. Those holes that won't be covered can be filled with epoxy putty and then sanded back flat when cured. You'll then be able to paint the repair with the correct Colorbond colour to match your gate.
Please let me know if you need further assistance or have questions.
Thanks for your recommendation.
Prepared the items list for the purchase. I have opted for Dynabolt - Stainless Steel considering the location of the part in outdoor environment preventing rusting. [ Not sure countersunk dynabolt has same material characteristics ].
Could not understand the difference between Dynabolt Masonry Anchor and Dynabold - Nut - Bolt.
Noticed the drilled holes in the post (that holds the door) are of different size. Which drill bit should I use for enlarging the size of the hole, as shown in below image.
For installing the sleeve anchor, it looks the hole (in the brick) is too large and to be sealed again and drilled for 10mm hole. (with depth of 80mm for accomdating 75mm sleeve anchor). Can you please recommend any filler to fill the gap. (Please refer to below image). Also a recommendation for masonry drill bit (10mm size), as there are so many tips in the market, I can buy one that lasts longer for other jobs as well.
To close the drilled hole at the frame, request the name of the below part. (other parts were removed today from the frame as part of preparation)
To make the job easy, I would like to seperate the door from the post and afraid that the bolts might not be able to fit in again. Can below bolts be fixed again to secure the door to the frame, once the installation of the post to the wall is complete.
The workmanship at the start is not so great that the tradie drilled two holes, packing with inserts. Are there any pullers, they can completely take the inserts out.
Noticed the door post is grounded in below manner, with empty area around the post in the ground. Should I fill them with gravel. (or) it should be left as it is for any reason. If you could advice for the right solution along with materials for purchase is appreciated.
Thanks for the recommendation of two way lock and added to the purchase list. The video posted in Bunnings website (at the last portion) informs about optional Brushed chrome covers (for the handle). Should I order that from D&D technologies or Bunnings offer then for sale. Aside, I reckon, the drill bit which you will be proposing for enlarging drilled holes ( for the post ) will give me an idea for selection of drill bit (small size) for drilling the holes in the gate for fixing the lock. [ The video informs about fixing screws - looks like wood screws; Not sure should I pre-drill any smaller hole before that ]
Sorry for the lengthy message as questions pop up when the taks is performed.
Hope to hear from you soon.
I suggested the countersunk anchor versions as their head is smaller, allowing you to minimise the hole in the post's outer wall. You then can use a screwdriver bit in a drill to tighten them up. When recessed, the anchor you've selected requires a socket to be attached. This would mean the hole in the post's outside wall must be large enough to accept the socket. As opposed to an approximately 10mm hole for the countersunk anchor, you'd need to drill a hole up to 15-20mm. It would be best to speak with a helpful team member in-store, and they'll be able to measure the head of the Dynabolt and provide a suitable drill bit.
Instead of filling the existing hole, I suggest you choose a different location for your new fixings. This 10mm masonry drill will be suitable.
You could be able to use these push-in caps to fill the holes. They come in a few different sizes, so hopefully, one of them will fit for you.
You'd likely be able to undo those screws and remove the gate from the attachment post. I can't see any reason why they wouldn't fit again afterwards.
There is no dedicated tool for removing those wall plugs. I'd imagine you'd have the best success with some long-nosed pliers.
If the post is firmly attached to the wall, then there is no reason to do anything with the base of the post. You might like to fill in around it with pebbles for aesthetical reasons.
You can order product accessories like the chrome covers through the team at your local store's Special Orders desk.
You might like to check out these stepped drill bits. When drilling through thin material, they allow you to drill many different hole sizes with one bit. The deeper you drill into the surface, the larger the hole gets.
The screws supplied with the door latch are self-drilling and do not require you to pre-drill any holes for them. They'll cut into the steel/aluminium on their own.
Are there any small bench ( height adjustable ) available, where the gate can be placed at appropriate height for securing the gate screws to the post.
I removed the gate with ease. But putting it back require lifting.
I suggest using some timber off cuts to lift the door to its original height or you can ask a friend to come over and help you lift the door while you are re-attaching it.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
1. Are there any tools available to ensure the posts are of same height at the top.
The ground is sand and thus the reference from the ground might not be accurate.
Thought of using a string from the left secured post (fence side). Wondering on how to tie the string to the brick.
2. The post (Brick side) looks slight bent leaning away from the wall by sound 5 mm when fully pushed to the brick. How the bend can be removed to make the post straight.
Using a level would likely be the best way to ensure the posts are at the same height. You could either get a longer level that will reach the whole way across and sit on top of both posts or use a flat piece of timber between them and sit a shorter level on top of it.
Can you force the post back against the wall and close this 5mm gap? You might need to wedge some timber between the two posts and hammer it down so it pushes the post firmly again the wall. Once you install your new fixing, it should hold it in position. It sounds like the post might be bent. Can you place it on the ground and stand on it to try and bend it back into shape?
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Perhaps this product will be what you are looking for to help hold the gate at the correct height?
I have a set and use them often for this type of problem. You'll still need someone to help hold the gate upright while it suits on the wedges.
When you get the right height of wedges, place two rubber bands around them to keep them together. Best to use two piles wedges to get the gate straight while you attach the hinges. Usually up to three wedges per pile is enough.
Amazing @TedBear. Happy on your proposal.
I also thought of using Car Wheel scissor Jack for uplifting the door. Have not tried yet.
Either one should work. But the wedges are of universal for any job. Thanks for that.