How to fix or replace back cover for letterbox?

I have moved into a house and found this letterbox cover missing all my mails are either getting wet or torn into pieces by snails living inside. I have managed to unscrew the back cover and found one side on top right is broken can anyone give me tips to put a new cover with lock if possible?

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faisal-s

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/19575#Comment_19575

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @faisal-s. It's lovely to have you join us, and many thanks for the question about repairing your letterbox.

My first thought is that the easiest solution would be to replace the letterbox. We have other slightly more budget-friendly options too.

There are no back panels sold separately for direct replacement. So, if you wanted to replace the door, you'd need to try using a door off another letterbox. For example, we have the Sandleford 160 x 235mm Aluminium Brick-In Letterbox Set, and you could potentially use the back door off that. You'd need to adhere it to your current mailbox with something like Sikaflex 11FC.

What part of the current door is broken? Is it just the damage on the right of the opening that is causing the issue? Would you be able to glue the back door onto the letterbox? If you can provide some images of the door, our members might be able to offer other solutions.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

faisal-s

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/72439#Comment_72439

Hi Mitchell,

Thats the back plate ONLY. The cover is missing. I took the plate out and measured it its almost 24cm wide and 16cm long. Im happy to buy the whole set if i can only use the back plate. Please let me know if i can provide you with any further details 🙏

faisal-s

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99599#Comment_99599

Also i just noticed the

Sandleford 160 x 235mm Aluminium Brick-In Letterbox Set you suggested has almost the same dimensions as the one i have currently that actually might fit perfectly ✌️looks like im heading to my nearest store 😀 will update you

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/116616#Comment_116616

@faisal-s,

The brick-in letterbox won't have the same connection fixings as the plate you've removed. You'll need to glue it on. A thick bead of the Sika product with do quite a reasonable job of holding it on. Once it's glued in place I don't think you'd be able to pull it off at all. The 11FC is a very tough product.

Let us know how you go.

Mitchell

faisal-s

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126399#Comment_126399

Hi mitchell,

So i tried gluing it on directly but because of the weight of the cover it kept falling off after a while. Below is the selleys liquid nail i bought which i was told is more adhesive then the one you mentioned 11fc, i will have to somehow glue bolts inside first once they are holding the cover it will give better hold to the liquid nail. But to instantly hold metal bolts to metal surface i bought gorilla clear grip its still not dry but to show you what I'm upto see pics below

Can anyone tell me what this adhesive is on the old cover?

faisal-s

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/132901#Comment_132901

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/136912#Comment_136912

Hello @faisal-s

I can't identify the original glue that was used on your mailbox door, but I suggest using Selleys Liquid Nails Instant Hold. It has a horizontal weight rating of 5kg on metal to metal adhesion. Please note that you must let the adhesive cure for at least 48 hours before you use it. If the weather is too humid or it is raining please add one extra day so that the glue will cure to full strength.

If you use it too early the glue will fail and you'll have to do it all over again. I recommend being generous with the amount of glue you will be putting on to make sure it covers the head of the bolt.

Let me tag our experienced members @TedBear @Noyade and @diy_hausdesigns for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139663#Comment_139663

Sorry, I'm not grasping the problem.

That frame above is stainless steel or aluminium?

One attachment bolt is missing?

The rest are spot welded?

But you have all the other hardware - door and lock?

Glue wise I found this to be the best...

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141543#Comment_141543

Ok.

You have a new back cover?

I was thinking of two pieces of H4 treated pine glued to the inside of the mailbox sides - using the glue above.

Let it dry. Give it plenty of time.

Drill four holes in your new 'metal' frame.

Position the frame and mark the holes on the mailbox and pre-drill those spots on the mailbox.

Screw the frame into the wood - using stainless screws.

Apologies If I have misinterpreted the problem.

faisal-s

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142951#Comment_142951

Hi noyade,

Thank you so much for the wonderful input. Before i read your comment i was just online to figure out if it was aluminium or steel. Turns out the new cover with rear lid is aluminium so i thought i would rather drill a small hole to fit a small screw or bolt and install square washer plate with nuts on the inside of mailbox that would hold it with selleys liquid nail on edges for a good 2/3 days. You can see the old plate with missing lid and the new rear cover below. I noticed the screw head will have to be flush/countersunk to do the job. Any advise if I'm on the right track? I will definitely try your recommendation too. Much appreciated 🙏

faisal-s

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141543#Comment_141543

Hi noyade,

I was thinking about getting 4 x bolts spot welded inside too. It would be an easy fix and would definitely do the job without any glue. Can you recommend where i can get 4 x bolts spot welded onto the new rear cover from?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142952#Comment_142952

Hello @faisal-s

Let me tag @Noyade to make them aware of your question. I was pondering the other possibilities to fix your mailbox. Have you considered drilling into the metal frame and attaching it using a small nut and bolt? For example, I suggest Zenith M6 x 75mm Hot Dipped Galvanised Hex Head Bolt And Nut.

You can then attach the bolt to the timber piece that Noyade suggested. I also recommend using Zenith 10G x 50mm Galvanised Countersunk Head Metal Screw as an alternative. This would be an easier solution to having it spot welded.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143937#Comment_143937

Good evening Faisal. 🙂

Apologies in advance if my concept of the problem is wrong and I may have dimensions and the various contours wrong in the amateur cross section below.

If the frame is aluminium then we can forget about welding steel bolts onto it.

In fact I can't see a reason for bolts at all?

Long thin weather-proof wood screws is what's needed for my plan.

Looks to me like you drilled a rather large hole for a raised head bolt in the frame's rebate that will now impede the closure of the flap - slightly?

See what you think...

TedBear

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143936#Comment_143936

Another possible solution(?): - could you insert the old frame into the box, after drilling aligned holes to take thin bolts, in the new and old frame.

This sandwiched approach will keep the keep the door in place. You would likely have to drill holes in the letter box structure too - although there appears to be notches already there - including the broken away piece.

Regarding the snails (I have had this problem) - the new door wont prevent them, so I suggest putting a mesh tray in the bottom to keep the mail from touching the floor and placing snail pellets under that mesh. This also keeps the mail dryer if any water seeps in (usually from mail that is not pushed in properly and sticks out in the rain).

You may have to make up 2 trays so you can get them in - get some straight mesh and bend the edges down to make it stand off the bottom by a few mm. Since mail is light, you only need to bend 2 edges, not 4, for it to work.

faisal-s

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144706#Comment_144706

@EricL @Noyade @MitchellMc @TedBear guys thank you so much for all your inputs and ideas. This community is amazing. managed to fix it. So i got someone to see if they can spot weld it. Tried on the old aluminium frame to see if it works first. Then spot weld one bolt to mark where the other 3 bolts would go used square washers with nuts to hold it and applied transparent silicone to finish the gaps where water might go in. Once the silicone has completely dried i will further tighten the screws with hand a bit. So glad its worked out because i was sure it will be impossible to weld on aluminium for obvious reasons.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145268#Comment_145268

I'm pleased to hear you've successfully repaired your letterbox @faisal-s. Please reach out anytime you need assistance or have something to share.

Mitchell

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145707#Comment_145707

Glad you got it sorted - and it looks good. 👍

I'm amazed to were able to weld the steel bolt to the aluminium frame.

I'm learning on this site every day.

https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/aluminium-welding/aluminium-to-steel

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