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Bedroom picture ledge with VJ panel wall

Having an Impact
Having an Impact

This VJ feature wall with a Pine ledge is an attractive and practical feature that gives the whole bedroom a lift.





The project


This VJ-panelling nib wall was simple to build with materials all sourced from my local Bunnings. The cost was was surprisingly low too.


I'll walk you through the project step by step.

The first thing to do is decide how wide you want your ledge top to be so you know what size frame to build.


For my ledge top I went with 184mm x 19mm 2.4m DAR Pine Premium. Before fully committing I tested it by holding it up against my paint colour in the room.




The next step was to build the frame.


I wanted a 5mm lip underneath the ledge. Subtracting that 5mm and the 9mm depth of the Easycraft VJ panelling from the 184mm of the ledge told me that I needed to build the frame at a depth of 170mm.


I used 70 x 35mm Framing MGP10 H2 Blue Pine. I built two flat-facing wall frames and joined them with block spacers to achieve the 170mm depth.




I started by building the first frame on the floor, which made it easier to nail in the studs using my favourite tool, the Paslode FrameMaster Nail Gun, and Paslode 75 x 3.06mm Bright D Head Framing Nails.


I spaced out the studs according to the Easycraft VJ panel specifications (you can find the specs, installation guide and videos here).


The studs need to have a 600mm centre because the panels are 1200mm wide and you want to make sure your panel is supported with a stud behind it on the end, in the middle and at the join. The best way to check is to cut a piece of timber at 1200mm wide and lay it across your studs.


I made my wall 1200mm high and built the frame to suit. To achieve that 1200mm height I got Easycraft 2400 x 1200mm 9mm Lining Panel sheets and cut them in half.


This is what the two frames looked like against the wall before adding the block spacers and noggins.




You can see how I tested my timber piece by placing it on the ledge top to check I was on the right track with the frame. I also had a scrap piece of VJ panel, which I placed on the front to ensure I would achieve the 5mm lip.


Next I cut my block spacers at 170mm, which was the depth that I wanted my frame to be. I then nailed the blocks in on the top and bottom to join the two frames and maintain the correct depth, as you can see below.




I then added in the noggins (horizontal timbers between the studs to support the space behind the panel) at the recommended 450mm height and distance. It's best to offset the noggins so that you can nail them from both sides.


IMG_0953 2.jpeg


Before bolting my frame to the wall I removed the flooring around it so that the frame would sit on the concrete, but you don't need to do this.


I bolted the frame to the wall using Ramset AnkaScrews. You can see how I had nailed in studs that sat flat against the wall, one on either side and one in the middle, so I could fix the frame to the wall. 


The next step was to attach the VJ panels. I cut 2400mm tall panels in half to get my 1200mm height. You can also use 900mm panels if that's the height you want. (You could also use the new 2400 x 1200mm 12mm Primed Scallop Profile, which would look amazing.)


When installing the panels I went from left to right and started with a full panel. Some instructions will tell you to find a centre first so that both your ends are even. I personally don't think it's worth the effort because you won't notice the difference in the long run.


I applied Gyprock acrylic stud adhesive on the studs as per the specifications to help the panels stick. I then nailed the panels on with a brad nail gun. I didn't put too many nails in because I knew I had to patch the holes before painting.




Tip: When attaching the panels, make sure the top is completely flush to ensure you get a nice, clean edge where the ledge and panel meet. I used the factory-cut edge at the top to make sure I had the cleanest line.


After the panels are attached you can then fill in the nail holes. I used Selleys Spakfilla because its easy to work with, fast-drying and nice to sand.


You then need to fill the joins between the panels and where the panels meet the walls. I used Selleys No More Gaps (I like to support Australian companies whenever possible).


Now it's time to paint! I painted my panel and the wall behind it before putting my timber top on to get those nice, crisp lines.




The result:




The length of my ledge was 3900mm, which meant I had to by two pieces of timber. I cut the flat face of both pieces at an angle to make the join, and it worked out well.


I stuck it on using Selleys Liquid Nails and put some weights on top while it dried. For an extra precaution I also put some Gorilla Wood Glue on the join to ensure that it didn't seperate over time.


I didn't want to nail or screw the top because I wanted that extra-clean look. It's holding up well and isn't going anywhere any time soon.


Feel free to reach out if you have any questions or want help with this project. 


Before and after






More inspiration for your bedroom


Bedheads and nib walls can create a wonderful bedroom feature and even display photo frames, plants and other decor items.


You can check out some of our favourite projects by Bunnings Workshop members in our collection of Bedheads and nib walls.


EleventhCoastal bedhead.png


Let us know if you need a hand with your project – we're here to help.


Just Starting Out

Can you please tell me the colour and brand of paint you used. Love the colour. Thanks

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @celestelobosco,


Allow me to tag @TheRenoDad, so they're notified of your question.




Having an Impact

Hi @celestelobosco 


The colour is Abstract Mood by Haymes Paint. Bunnings doesn't stock Haymes, but you can get them to tint another paint brand to the same colour.


Here is the colour profile RGB: 133, 127, 110




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