New ensuite questions please

[PoodlesRule]

Hi, We are putting in a small ensuite, and have a few questions for the bits we are doing ourselves, we have a plumber, wet sealer and plasterer.   We have purchased a formed shower tray (so it does not need tiles) and will be enclosed on 3 sides with shower screen to front.

1.  When building the enclosing stud wall, how much extra room than the width of tray do we leave for thickness of wet seal so there isn't too much room, but enough to slot the tray in after they wet seal it?

2.  Because it will be enclosed on 3 sides, and the need to wet seal before installing base, we will need to put extra wall paneling on the 3 sides before putting in the laminated wall panels we have bought from Bunnings to create the notch in effect.  The walls are Hardiflex wet area Villaboard.  Do we just install extra 3 pieces of Villaboard above the base to duplicate a notch in? Does it need to be sealed also? And what do we use to attach the laminated panels to the wall lining?  (prefer something low odour as I react to a lot of glue smells).  We have the edge and corner joining strips.

Thanks.

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @PoodlesRule. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about installing a shower tray.

Because you’re using a pre-formed shower tray, the manufacturer’s installation instructions are really the key thing here, as different trays are designed to be installed in slightly different ways. In most cases, you don’t allow extra clearance for waterproofing thickness at the sides. The tray is normally installed first, either hard up to the framing or notched into the bottom of the studs, and the wall linings then come down over or just into the tray flange. The waterproofing membrane is applied to the wall linings after they’re installed, not behind the tray, so you’re not trying to “slot” the tray in after waterproofing.

For three-sided enclosed trays, you usually don’t build up extra Villaboard to create a notch. Instead, the Villaboard is fixed to the studs so it overlaps or sits just inside the tray’s upstand or flange, and that lining is then fully waterproofed as part of the wet area system. Any Villaboard that forms part of the shower enclosure does need to be waterproofed, even if it’s above the tray. The laminated wall panels are then fixed over the waterproofed surface, and the waterproofing remains the primary barrier.

For fixing the laminated panels, most systems recommend either a neutral-cure silicone or a low-VOC construction adhesive, depending on the panel brand. Many people with sensitivity to smells have better luck with neutral-cure silicone, as it generally has much lower odour than solvent-based adhesives. Again, it’s worth checking the panel manufacturer’s instructions, as they’ll specify what adhesive is compatible and won’t affect warranties.

If you can share the exact brand and model of the shower tray you’ve bought from Bunnings, the installation method can be confirmed more precisely, so you don’t build something that fights the tray’s design.

Here's a guide on How to install a shower base, which shows the notching of the studwork, rather than stepped sheeting.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell
 

[PoodlesRule]

Thank you for replying.  We did initially buy the tray from Bunnings, but had to return it because it didn't take a standard drain (the Estello plastic drain supplied sticks up above base and would cause a toe stubbing/tripping point for my 85yr old Mum), and Bunnings don't sell any other 1200 x 900 with 3 lips, so we had to get a Elegant brand base by mail order.  Manufacturer advised on phone that they recommend sealing under, as we are in Qld and regulations are strict, and the sub floor is yellow tongue floor under the cement floor sheeting.  Due to having to wet seal before installing it, we cannot notch out first, the base is being enclosed 3 sides and it would not fit. So back to initial question of how close to build the 3rd wall so after wet sealing man seals it there will be enough room to place the base in cavity still, and how to create the notch effect, what to use and does it then need sealing too?

The wall lining panels we bought from Bunnings are Wall Art 2400 x 1200 x 3mm Carrara Ice Wet Area Wall / Shower Panel and the matching joining and edge strips - is neutral cure silicone recommended to use to adhere them?

[MitchellMc]

Because you’re now using a different shower tray, the most important guidance has to come directly from the manufacturer. Each tray is designed slightly differently, and the way it needs to be installed, whether it can be slid into a cavity after wet sealing, whether it requires notching into the studs, or how it interfaces with the wall linings can vary. For the base you’ve purchased, you’ll need to follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly, and also abide by any local regulations.

In terms of building the stud walls so the tray will fit, and creating the “notch” effect for the lining panels, again this depends on the tray manufacturer’s installation method. Doubling up panels or adjusting wall thickness is something that can be done if it complies with the tray’s instructions, but the exact spacing and waterproofing requirements will be set by the manufacturer. All the Villaboard panels that form part of the shower enclosure do need to be sealed according to the wet area regulations, even if they are above the tray.

For attaching your Wall Art laminated panels, neutral-cure silicone is generally a safe option.

Because you now have a combination of regulatory requirements and manufacturer-specific installation instructions, if anything doesn’t line up, like wall thickness, notching, or tray placement, it’s best to enlist a professional experienced with wet area installations in Queensland. They can ensure the installation meets both the tray manufacturer’s guidance and local building regulations, keeping it safe and compliant.

I would suggest that what needs to happen is the stud frame needs to be notched, if that's required by the manufacturer of the tray, then Villaboard sheeted on the wall and within the notched section down to the floor. From there, the wall and floor would have a membrane applied, the tray slotted into the notched section and the Wall art panel installed down into the tray lip.

Mitchell