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How to build a slimline spice rack

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Difficulty: Intermediate

Most people would love more kitchen storage, so ideas to maximise use of your precious space are always popular.


This slimline spice rack can fit neatly in a gap beside a fridge – often wasted space that does nothing except collect dust.


The inspiration for this popular project comes from Pull out storage to utilise space next to fridge, with credit to @DIYology for the wonderful design.

Thanks also to @jessica_roesel@keithT@Pasan and @Prof for sharing your creations with us.   


Step 1

Begin your project by cutting all the timber to length. Take four of your dressed Pine 89 x19mm and cut them in half at 90cm for the shelves. For the railings, cut the Pine dowel into 92cm lengths.


1.1 Shelf timber ready to be cut.jpg  1.2 Measuring out the shelves.jpg  1.3 Shelves cut to length.jpg  1.4 Measuring dowel to length for railings.jpg

Step 2

Lay out your shelves and the two full-length sides. Position the first two shelves 23cm apart at the top, and then transition to 33cm apart for the bottom three shelves. Mark out on the side panels where the shelves top and bottom edges will go. Then mark out locations for the rail holes, 4.5cm above the top of the shelves mark and 1.5cm in from the edge of the side panels.


2.1 Dry fitting shelves.jpg  2.2 Setting out shelf heights.jpg  2.3 Marking shelf locations.jpg  2.4 Marking railing locations.jpg

Step 3

Take a scrap piece of wood and create a guide by transferring the rail hole measurements onto it. Drill out these holes and then clamp the guide onto your side panel. You will drill into the side panel to a depth of 10mm. To achieve this, add 10mm to the thickness of your guide and then wrap some painter’s tape around the drill bit at that point. The tape will be an indicator that you are only drilling 10mm into the side panel, and the guide will keep your holes consistent.


Drill all the rail holes into the side panels. Drill three holes per shelf side with your 3mm drill bit. These holes will fall between the lines you marked earlier for the top and bottom of the shelf.


3.1 Depth tape applied to drillbit.jpg  3.2 Guide clamped in place.jpg  3.3 Railing holes drilled.jpg  3.4 Pre-drilling side panels.jpg

Step 4

Take one side panel and apply PVA glue both to the location where the shelves will fix, and to the shelf ends. Use three screws 8 x 50mm to secure one end of the shelves to the side panel. Some corner clamps can come in handy to keep the shelves perpendicular to the side panel. Insert the 8 x 50mm screws partially into the second side panel.


4.1 Applying glue and screwing shelves.jpg  4.2 Shelves clamped and screwed in place.jpg  4.3 Screws partially inserted into side panel.jpg


Step 5

Stand the unit on edge, so the shelves are vertical. Apply glue to the ends of the shelves and the dowels and to the additional side panel. Insert the dowels into the lower side panel. Take the remaining side panel and place it on top of the shelves and dowels.


Starting from one end, line up the dowels with the pre-drilled holes and tap the side panel into place with a hammer. A scrap block of timber will prevent the hammer marking the side panel as you tap it into place. Once the side panel is in place, secure all the screws into the shelves.


5.1 Applying glue to side panel.jpg  5.2 Prepared parts for assembly.jpg  5.3 Applying glue to shelves.jpg  5.4 Applying glue to railings.jpg  5.5 Inserting railings.jpg  5.6 Railings and shelves in place.jpg  5.7 Lining up railings and shelves.jpg

Step 6

Apply timber putty over all screws, and any joins that have gaps. Wait for this to dry and then sand back the excess putty. Apply a second skim coat of putty and then sand again when it is dry.


6.1 Filling screw holes with putty.jpg  6.2 First coat of putty sanded.jpg  6.3 Final skim coat of putty.jpg  6.4 Skim coat sanded..jpg

Step 7

Lay drop sheets to prevent drips and then use water-based enamel paint to coat your unit. You will need to apply a few coats to get an excellent finish. Wait for the paint to dry.


7.1 Painting the unit.jpg

Step 8

Install your four casters onto the bottom of the unit. It would be best if you stepped the castors at the front slightly back, hiding them under it. Next, mark out the position of the handle at the height of your preference. Drill holes and install the handle with the screws provided.


Congratulations. You've now completed your hidden spice rack shelf. Enjoy filling it with an assortment of your favourite fragrant ingredients.


8.1 Selecting locations for casters.jpg  8.2 Casters attached.jpg  8.3 Marking locations for handle.jpg  8.4 Holes drilled for handle.jpg  8.5 Handle attached.jpg  8.6 Screws for handle.jpg  8.7 Completed unit.jpg  8.8 Completed unit with spices.jpg  DIYology.jpeg  jessica_roesel.jpeg  keithT.jpg  Pasan.jpeg  Prof.jpg


  • 6 pieces of 1.8m dressed Pine 89 x19mm
  • 12 pieces of Pine dowel 12.7mm 1.2m
  • 42 screws 8 x 50mm
  • 16 screws 8 x 18mm
  • 500ml PVA glue
  • 4 50mm castors
  • 1 drawer handle
  • 1 litre water-based enamel paint
  • Timber putty


  • Drill driver
  • 12.7mm drill bit
  • 3mm drill bit
  • Circular saw or mitre saw
  • Tape measure
  • Clamps
  • Hammer
  • Paint brush or spray gun
  • Painter's tape


1.1 Shelf timber ready to be cut.jpg

1.2 Measuring out the shelves.jpg

1.3 Shelves cut to length.jpg

1.4 Measuring dowel to length for railings.jpg

2.1 Dry fitting shelves.jpg

2.2 Setting out shelf heights.jpg

2.3 Marking shelf locations.jpg

2.4 Marking railing locations.jpg

3.1 Depth tape applied to drillbit.jpg

3.2 Guide clamped in place.jpg

3.3 Railing holes drilled.jpg

3.4 Pre-drilling side panels.jpg

4.1 Applying glue and screwing shelves.jpg

4.2 Shelves clamped and screwed in place.jpg

4.3 Screws partially inserted into side panel.jpg

5.1 Applying glue to side panel.jpg

5.2 Prepared parts for assembly.jpg

5.3 Applying glue to shelves.jpg

5.4 Applying glue to railings.jpg

5.5 Inserting railings.jpg

5.6 Railings and shelves in place.jpg

5.7 Lining up railings and shelves.jpg

6.1 Filling screw holes with putty.jpg

6.2 First coat of putty sanded.jpg

6.3 Final skim coat of putty.jpg

6.4 Skim coat sanded..jpg

7.1 Painting the unit.jpg

8.1 Selecting locations for casters.jpg

8.2 Casters attached.jpg

8.3 Marking locations for handle.jpg

8.4 Holes drilled for handle.jpg

8.5 Handle attached.jpg

8.6 Screws for handle.jpg

8.7 Completed unit.jpg

8.8 Completed unit with spices.jpg







15 Replies
Kind of a Big Deal

Looks great Mitchell!

You seem to have aged immensely? Love ya beard!


The spice rack I made some time ago was like a football grandstand with layered seating. Clearly there are now too many spectators and not practicing COVID distancing.


A MessA Mess

Kind of a Big Deal

For the space between the fridge and sliding door - I made shelving on wheels - so I can easily get to the fridge powerpoint.



Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member



There's nothing like a good beard. Unfortunately, I'm only sporting a belated moustache at the moment. 


Your idea for shelving on wheels is fantastic and solves trying to plug the fridge in with the end of a broom handle. I bet it makes gaining access for cleaning a breeze too. 


Many thanks for sharing and your compliments.




Getting Established

Hi @MitchellMc got inspired by your project and built a pull-out door shelf next to our fridge as well. I also added a soft close sliders on top of the shef for extra stability and smoother operation.. one less wasted space YES!!!



Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @kalebabu. It's amazing that you've joined us, and many thanks for sharing your project.


All credit goes to @DIYology for their pull out storage to utilise space next to fridge, I merely put some instructions together for it. You've done a fantastic job and I'm truly pleased to hear the project was of inspiration to you. The soft-close sliders are also a brilliant addition.


I trust you'll find loads more inspiration within the community for all your projects around the house and garden, and we'd encourage you to let us know any time you need assistance or have something to share.




Becoming a Leader

Nice one Mitchell..


I'm sure a lot of people will benefit from the detailed information on how to build a roll out spice rack..

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Many thanks for your kind comments, @Prof. Do you have any other unused space like this in your kitchen? The vacant space above my fridge troubles me; we currently have cereal boxes stored there. I'm sure there is a better use, though.




Cultivating a Following

Well done !!  Very clever idea :smile:

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Would you like to build your own pullout spice rack @Dee-Zines? I'd be more than happy to guide you through the process.


Please reach out if you have any questions or need assistance.




Making a Splash

This is my spice rack I made some time ago! The window leads into a covered in sunroom so the window never gets opened! 


Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Lovely work, @hazesnow, that looks very functional indeed! I love the little jars too.




Just Starting Out

I only have 68mm of available width. Could I use say 3mm ply rebated into the uprights instead of the dowels (still giving me the requisite internal dimensions)?

Cheers Michael 

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community Michael (@mikhael_43). It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about building a slimline spice rack.


You could use 3mm ply instead of the dowel, but a bigger issue is that you'll need to create the rack from timber slimmer than 89mm Pine. Perhaps you could use 64 x 19mm 1.8m DAR Pine Premium as it's the next width down. Instead of the 12mm dowel, you could use Metal Mate 6.3mm x 1m Aluminium Solid Rod and adjust the unit's depth to accommodate the shorter rod. By using 64mm Pine and the 3mm aluminium rod, you'll still have enough space to fit the standard-sized spice containers. Be careful when placing your holes in the front and back pieces for the rod, as you'll need to position them quite close to the timber's edge.


Please let me know if you have any questions.




Making a Splash

This is brilliant! I'm adding this to my list of projects to do... Thanks for laying it all out so well, too, this is super easy to follow.

Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

I see you found it @Benskimo!


Good luck, and make sure to share your results with us!




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