Hi, i have a retaining wall, thats more of a plantar box, that i need to build in front of my deck. Its 600mm high by about 5.4m long, and will be 1m wide. I would like to cover the treated pine sleepers with spotted gum decking, and wondering if this is ok to just screw the decking boards onto the uprights? Was going to use 200 x 75mm TP sleepers as uprights.
Secondly, is it also possible to use stacked stone veneer on a TP sleeper wall? If i put up some thick cement sheet between the uprights, will it be ok to glue the stacked stone to this, or is a TP sleeper wall to unreliable to to this method?
The sleepers would be on one side of the uprights, and the sheeting on the otherside, so not directly touching.
Hope that makes sense!
If it's a true planter box (i.e free standing with sleepers on all sides) TP should be OK.
If it's more of a retaining wall (ie sleepers at front & ends with the back being the natural land/fill) then:
W.r.t. the decking cladding, it would need appropriate intermediate support depending on the span ie less than 2400mm
Hi @Crash76 , yes, it's actually pretty easy to cover-up a basic timber retaining wall. It's all about getting the right spans between fixing or adding the right substrate.
One of my early YouTube videos I show how to clad a retaining style raised garden bed. This just uses blueboard painted with texture-finish paint.
The photo I've included is a pond & board-walk I built where I created a stable substrate and then applied stackstone. I used two techniques with this project. One was blueboard the other was horizontal sleepers (hard to explain without showing all the images but had to do with the pond structure.)
Thanks for the info guys.
That video is great, really helpful!
I've realised i have a heap of hardwood sleepers (ironbark) which i can use, so will be using them instead of TP. Will 2.4m centres be too far or is that ok? It won't be holding any load bearing soil, literally just a garden bed.
With the 2.4 distance between uprights, i will put in blocking between at 600mm intervals to take the cladding or blueboard, depending on which way i go.
Thanks again for the help!
Hi @Crash76 , no worries.
Just to make it easier, think of the uprights as posts and we'll call the horizontals beams.
To prevent bowing over time, even in non-load bearing walls, 3 evenly spaces posts are always used. If your beam is 2.4 then the centre of post 1 would be at zero, post two at 1.2, post 3 at 2.4 if the wall is continuous.
This would obviously be modified to suit your situation. (see diagram I just quickly drew up, note there's no scale to this)
In your case you'd then want blocking too as I'd say that 1.2 is too great a span for blueboard.